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Drills for Trigger Isolation


Seth

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My first post! Yea!! I have a G17 that I bought a couple of months ago for IDPA and eventually IPSC. I have done sights (DP FO front and fixed rear), .25 trigger job, LWD 3.5# connector, heavy trigger return spring and lots of range time. I'm still finding that I'm low and left (milking the grip?). I do have about 1800 rounds through the gun.

Has anyone found any good drills for isolating the trigger finger on a Glock? I have a 1911 that I can shoot straight without issue.

Thanks.

Seth

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Take heart! I was about to say "Most people new to shooting GLOCKs shoot low left..." which is true. You aren't new to that gun!

Try this (might work, might not); put the middle pads of your strong hand on the front strap of the stocks. Don't make any contact with the palm side and leave your fingers loose on the other; your thumbs should not be touching the gun or very lightly touching it. The grip will be like a crab claw from front to back. Make the support hand fit, keeping side pressure off the gun as much as possible.

This grip will 'roll' your hand around the gun, putting the trigger finger in a better spot. A 'Standard' grip puts too much of my trigger finger into the guard, but this one works pretty well for me.

Secondarily, fire a 3 shot group, never taking your eyes off the front sight. Let it be a surprise break and do not look at the target until you make the gun safe and walk down. Do it from a bench if you prefer. If you still shoot low, I'd look at a problem with the gun (like sights, etc).

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Welcome to the forums! Here are several tips that I would recommend for getting rid of the flinch:

1)Double plug your ears

2)Dryfire the gun alot to get a subconscious fell for the trigger

3)Next time you're at the range, load up some dummy rounds with your live ones. When you hit a dummy, notice what your body is doing (This drill will show you everything!)

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Do Short range (3 yards is plenty ) accuracy shooting. Shoot a square paster of similar sized piece of tape. You MUST hit the tap with every shot. You can do this in dry fire too. No draws, no high ready, just accuracy. The front sight must remain on the dot even as the striker falls.

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Excellent! Thanks guys! I really want to play the game well and bought the Glock as an inexpensive way to shoot at lot. Its working thus far, except for the trigger issue. Thanks!

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A 1 1/2 to 2lb minimum take up trigger will do wonders for a Glock. Follow Joe D's instructions.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=52483

Either that, or put the stock 5 lb. connector back in.

Just polishing the trigger bar and installing a 3.5 connector doesn't help a whole lot. You end up with a slightly lighter, but much more creepy trigger pull.

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You need to try the LWD connector. I had the Glock 3.5 and it was HORRIBLE. TONS of creep. Put the OEM 5.5 and it, of course eliminated that. The LWD connector feels JUST like the 5.5 creepy wise, but with a lighter break.

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Here's another suggestion which has worked for me & that is the Glock Dry Practice Kit from rosssportinggoods.com. The initial pull is about 7# with subsequent 'shots' about 3.5#. I am using a LWD 3.5# connector in the 'real' gun which gives a snappy re-set which I like. After using the dry practice kit, the real trigger is MUCH easier to control. Whatever suggestion you follow, follow the front sight (call your shots) & have FUN!

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Get a paperclip and stick it in the ejection port, so that the slide doesn't quite go all the way into battery. This will allow the trigger to travel a bit, so you can dryfire with trigger movement without having to cycle the slide every time.

H.

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You need to try the LWD connector. I had the Glock 3.5 and it was HORRIBLE. TONS of creep. Put the OEM 5.5 and it, of course eliminated that. The LWD connector feels JUST like the 5.5 creepy wise, but with a lighter break.

I've got 3. 2 are about a year old, and 1 that I got through the give-away offer. All of them have significantly more creep than an OEM 5.5, and a little bit more than a Scherer. Maybe the LW connectors work better with the trigger bars that have the flat sear cruciform?

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