Older Wolf ammo OK?

[AustinMike]

I was in Cabelas today and they had a lone case of Wolf .223 on the shelf. No price, so I asked and they said $99. Sounded like a good deal for 500 rounds, so I brought it home. I opened the cardboard box and was surprised to find a big sealed metal mil-spec can and a can opener. I just got my 1st AR15 recently making me a rifle newbie, so maybe this part isn't so unusual. Anyway, I compared the rounds inside to some I already had and the case finish is different. I'm guessing this is what folks call the lacquered cases. They are lighter in color and more metallic looking than the newer poly coated steel cases. The can contained 25 of the typical looking Wolf boxes of 20, marked non corrosive. It seems like I had read where the lacquered cases could cause problems. Are these OK to shoot or should I try to return them? This would mainly be practice ammo or for club matches in pistol bays. I'm hoping I got a good deal here.

[blkbrd]

Bad ammo send it to me right away for proper disposal.

Really there is no problem, this is just the "classic" wolf ammo packaged in a can, probably even new production. I am jealous you have Cabalas that stocks it.

There is nothing really wrong with it for practice and close range matches, just keep your chamber & extractor clean and don't leave a round in a hot chamber.

[hoodhazard]

Wolf stuff is good for practice and local matches,at least the close stages(under 100 meteres).I personally liked the lacquered stuff better because it doesn't rust like the polymer stuff.

[AustinMike]

Thanks, ya'll. Here's a pic of what the stuff looks like (on the left, with some of the rounds I previously bought on the right.) I only recently started shooting Wolf, so the difference was odd at first until I started reading about the Wolf changes here.

Edited September 9, 2007 by AustinMike

[raz-0]

my polymer coated stuff looks like the stuff you got in the can.

The laquered stuff is greenish or brownish fromt he pictures I've seen of it. People seldom get their white balance right, so I'm not sure which is the correct description.

[AustinMike]

my polymer coated stuff looks like the stuff you got in the can.

The laquered stuff is greenish or brownish fromt he pictures I've seen of it. People seldom get their white balance right, so I'm not sure which is the correct description.

I'd say the canned stuff I have is more silverish (this coming from the color blind guy!) It doesn't look like the pictures I've seen posted of lacquered rounds, so I ain't sure what they did on this lot. Well, it's ammo and I'm gonna shoot it!

[Chris]

If you handle some rounds and it leaves some powdery residue on your fingers (like graphite) then its the polymer coated ammo.

[chp5]

I've had some stuck cases after getting the rifle very hot in practice. Unlikely to get it that hot in a match.

[jobob]

You can get stuck cases, even with the polymer stuff. Just don't leave a round sitting in a hot chamber and you should be ok. Also, a chrome lined chamber helps.

From looking at the picture I'm positive that you have polymer coated ammo. The laquer stuff is shiny, darker, and greenish. I have quite a bit of it in 7.62x39, and it works fine in an AK, which was designed for steel cases. The 223 cases are straighter, which means a little harder extraction. The laquer, and the polymer to a lesser extent, can partially melt in a hot chamber, then solidify as it cools. The AR also has a smaller extractor than the AK, and it can pull through the rim of a stuck case.

[AustinMike]

So, I gather that in a multi-gun stage, best practice would be to eject the chambered round and lock the bolt open instead of just putting the safety on before leaving the rifle to shoot another gun?

[jobob]

I don't know if the barrel would get that hot in a 3 gun stage, but I suppose if you run a hoser stage and dump 30+ rounds fast it could be pretty warm, so yeah, it would probably be wise to empty the chamber, just in case. Unfortunately that would probably add a second or so to your time, but if you're so cheap as to be shooting Wolf ammo in a match (unless they're your sponsor) you're probably in no danger of winning anyway!

That being said, I'm thinking of doing it, since I'm not going to be winning a major match anytime soon, and I AM cheap! However, the newer Wolf .223 has steel jacketed bullets, the use of which could get you DQ'd from most larger matches.

[blkbrd]

I don't know if the barrel would get that hot in a 3 gun stage, but I suppose if you run a hoser stage and dump 30+ rounds fast it could be pretty warm, so yeah, it would probably be wise to empty the chamber, just in case. Unload and show clear.?.

Unfortunately that would probably add a second or so to your time, but if you're so cheap as to be shooting Wolf ammo in a match (unless they're your sponsor) you're probably in no danger of winning anyway! Wana bet !!!

That being said, I'm thinking of doing it, since I'm not going to be winning a major match anytime soon, and I AM cheap! However, the newer Wolf .223 has steel jacketed bullets, the use of which could get you DQ'd from most larger matches. Not so, I pulled one checked with a magnet and cut apart. Copper washed pot metal and lead.

Edited September 12, 2007 by blkbrd

[RH45]

I just recieved a new flyer from Cabella's and they list the 500 rounds of "Wolf" in a sealed can for $99, so I'm guessing that the stuff you have is current production.

I've been using the polymer coated stuff for hoser stages for a couple of years now and the only issues I've had are they are noy very accurate out of my guns, and I forgot to open up my JP gas block just before one match that I had set for 68 grain bullets that had 25 grains of Varget behind them and my rifle was a single shot. MY FAULT!!

[jobob]

I don't know if the barrel would get that hot in a 3 gun stage, but I suppose if you run a hoser stage and dump 30+ rounds fast it could be pretty warm, so yeah, it would probably be wise to empty the chamber, just in case. Unload and show clear.?.

Unfortunately that would probably add a second or so to your time, but if you're so cheap as to be shooting Wolf ammo in a match (unless they're your sponsor) you're probably in no danger of winning anyway! Wana bet !!!

That being said, I'm thinking of doing it, since I'm not going to be winning a major match anytime soon, and I AM cheap! However, the newer Wolf .223 has steel jacketed bullets, the use of which could get you DQ'd from most larger matches. Not so, I pulled one checked with a magnet and cut apart. Copper washed pot metal and lead.

Yeah, they ARE steel jackets, with a copper wash. I bought 2 cases (62gr. hollow points) this spring that react to magnets. I called Wolf, and the tech I talked to said that they changed to steel jackets at the beginning of this year to save $. If yours are not steel jacketed you have ammo that was produced before the change to steel.

And, no, you don't have to unload and show clear. You drop the mag and rack the action to empty the chamber. If the RO checks your gun when you DO show clear and a round pops out, then it's DQ city!

[Charles Bond]

I just recieved a new flyer from Cabella's and they list the 500 rounds of "Wolf" in a sealed can for $99, so I'm guessing that the stuff you have is current production.

I've been using the polymer coated stuff for hoser stages for a couple of years now and the only issues I've had are they are noy very accurate out of my guns, and I forgot to open up my JP gas block just before one match that I had set for 68 grain bullets that had 25 grains of Varget behind them and my rifle was a single shot. MY FAULT!!

Could you please share the item number of the Cabela's cheapo Wolf ammo with us? It shoots all over the place out of my gun too but I can live with it inside 100 yards and for local matchs.

[blkbrd]

You got me wondering so I took a strong magnet to several lots of Wolf I had on hand. I yanked bullets and tried 55 and 62 gr. FMJ from polymer graphite coated cases and found no steel. On some "Military Classic" lacquer coated case 62gr. FMJ the magnet stuck, looks like they are cutting corners any way they can on the lacquer case stuff. Will need to check each batch from now on I guess.

Thanks for the heads up.

Never had any problems with the Polly graphite cases sticking at all in a match, I can get them to stick in my JP chamber just from being dirty after about 500 rounds but not from heat.

Edited September 13, 2007 by blkbrd

[RH45]

I just recieved a new flyer from Cabella's and they list the 500 rounds of "Wolf" in a sealed can for $99, so I'm guessing that the stuff you have is current production.

I've been using the polymer coated stuff for hoser stages for a couple of years now and the only issues I've had are they are noy very accurate out of my guns, and I forgot to open up my JP gas block just before one match that I had set for 68 grain bullets that had 25 grains of Varget behind them and my rifle was a single shot. MY FAULT!!

Could you please share the item number of the Cabela's cheapo Wolf ammo with us? It shoots all over the place out of my gun too but I can live with it inside 100 yards and for local matchs.

I apparently already threw out the catalog, and our "recyclables" were picked up yesterday, but, they show them on their website at $99.

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/template...f&noImage=0

[Charles Bond]

I apparently already threw out the catalog, and our "recyclables" were picked up yesterday, but, they show them on their website at $99.

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/template...f&noImage=0

Discard of the Cabela's Catalog is not allowed at my house.

I went to the website and the information is displayed below. It now appears that Wolf in their ammo is making a bullet out of bi-metal which is copper and steel which would make it illegal for matches. Good for practice though.

Bulk Wolf .223 Ammunition

Match-quality ammo at plinking-ammo prices. Consistent loads with bi-metal (part copper & part steel) bullets ensure tight-grouping accuracy at higher velocities. Choose from 55- or 62-gr. full-metal jacket ammo for target or plinking use. The 55-gr. and 62-gr. hollow point ammunition is ideal for varmint shooting.

Please select from the following:

[jobob]

I had my first stuck case w/Wolf ammo today, with some of the new steel jacketed stuff, polymer coated cases. It was in my POF upper which has been 100% reliable to date. I was experimenting with reversing the piston (end with smaller holes forward) to see if it would reduce the velocity of the action rod and carrier, and hopefully reduce recoil and sight jump. Anyway, the extractor pulled through the rim on one round. Never had that before (at least not with Wolf. I had a similar stuck case with WW white box Q3131A once.) It took several drops of a cleaning rod down the bore to extract the case. A local gunsmith told me never to shoot Wolf in an AR for this reason. I called bs on that, but maybe he was right.