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So You Want a Sub 2# Production Trigger?


Joe D

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Here's some details for a sub 2# Production legal trigger. The only parts that are not factory Glock are the Lone Wolf connector, Wolf reduced power striker spring, a reduced power safety plunger spring and a Lightning Strike steel striker.

The trigger bar has a slight modification to the "nose". Sorry but this is the best picture I could take with my camera. If you look closely you will see there is a ever so slight change in the radius of the nose.

As always make certain you have enough striker/trigger bar engagement. Too little can cause doubling.

Remember you are modifying a gun for competition use only. I would not recommend this or the other trigger job I posted for carry/personal defense use. Do this modification at your own risk.

My G35 has a trigger pull of slightly over 1 1/2 lbs. with this trigger job.

post-1058-1188135505.jpg

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Further testing has revealed that the LWD connector has a pull about 2-3 oz. lighter than a Scherer and Glock 3.5 connector. OTOH both Scherer and Glock connectors will yield a pull under 2 lb.

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The "slope" is not as severe as it looks. It is actually a spot with a larger radius. Glock currently has two suppliers of trigger bars. One is a long nose, the other is the short nose. The long nose versions have a larger radius which yields a softer pull.

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It is a hit or miss deal. The short nose bars are a dull/dark gray. The long nose bars are very bright. They look like they are nickle plated.

The cruciform area looks a lot different.

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Which do you think is best to modify and why? or are there +'s and -'s to both?

It is a hit or miss deal. The short nose bars are a dull/dark gray. The long nose bars are very bright. They look like they are nickle plated.

The cruciform area looks a lot different.

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You don't have to do much to the long nose bar.

With the long nose I slightly change the ramp area then I make sure the top edge is consistent, flat, and smooth. I stone the flat contact surfaces and polish the crap out of them. Just wondered what you did to them. Unfortunately I just bought 6 trigger bars and they are mostly the shorter version and some of the trigger faces are grooved, never thought about it until they arrived.

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Here's some details for a sub 2# Production legal trigger. The only parts that are not factory Glock are the Lone Wolf connector, Wolf reduced power striker spring, a reduced power safety plunger spring and a Lightning Strike steel striker.

The trigger bar has a slight modification to the "nose". Sorry but this is the best picture I could take with my camera. If you look closely you will see there is a ever so slight change in the radius of the nose.

As always make certain you have enough striker/trigger bar engagement. Too little can cause doubling.

Remember you are modifying a gun for competition use only. I would not recommend this or the other trigger job I posted for carry/personal defense use. Do this modification at your own risk.

My G35 has a trigger pull of slightly over 1 1/2 lbs. with this trigger job.

Joe, how about some arrows indicating the areas affected?

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Hey Joe!

What can you say about the lightning strike triggers? Are these the long nose type? Would you recommend it?

Lots of thanks for all the info you've shared.

I don't think the Lightning Strike aluminum triggers would be Production legal.

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  • 2 months later...
It is a hit or miss deal. The short nose bars are a dull/dark gray. The long nose bars are very bright. They look like they are nickle plated.

The cruciform area looks a lot different.

Had to resurrect this one. Sorry but I missed it when it was new.

Was hoping you could elaborate a bit more on these trigger bars. By larger radius do you mean that the curved part is just flatter? Like it is part of a larger circle? (If that makes sense)

What do you mean by the "cruciform area"? What about it is so different?

Any chance you can post pics that show the two different types and what the differences are?

I made a post here and on GT asking these same questions but it's not had many hits yet. I have 2 Glocks that I believe have the same trigger bars. One's a G24 that I would like to use to school myself into giving it a competition trigger but I would like to be sure I am starting with the right trigger bar to make it easier on myself. I have no way of identifying what I have.

Thanks for posting all this info. I will help me a ton I'm sure.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've got one of Joe's' trigger jobs and it is the bees knees!I played around with various connectors,exploring weight,length of reset and general feel.Somewhat counter intuitively the 8lb connector yielded the most 1911-like trigger I've ever felt in a Glock-At a little over 1.5lbs(lightweight steel striker,reduced power striker spring,and a TI safety plunger.)

I handed this to a hardcore 1911 lover/Glock basher and he was duly impressed. :surprise:

Hugh

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  • 2 weeks later...

To explain the angle on the nose a bit....

We'll need to assume, for the discussion, that the connector is a constant. Forget that you have the option of putting in factory connectors of the 3, 5 and 8 lb variety...nor the after-market options.

Now, instead of thinking of the nose of the trigger bar as a radius, think of it as a set (straight) angle. I've represented the angles by adding straight lines to the picture.

In picture 1, the red line is steep, or more vertical. As this angle hits the connector it will take more force (pounds) to overcome the interaction with the connector and allow the trigger to break. The break will be heavy, but quick (percieved as crisp).

In picture 2, the angle is gradual. It is longer, but less steep...as represented by the blue line. This angle takes less force (pounds), but requires more travel. Since the parts involved aren't hardened, precision and robust...and there is some give in the sytem...this lighter feel doesn't provide as crisp of a trigger break. You have more time (travel) to feel any mushy'ness.

post-690-1196179231.jpg

post-690-1196179770.jpg

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For the record, I don't recommend messing with the nose angle of the trigger bar. It's not "tweaker" work.

- I don't know any top glock shooter that does so.

- It's easy to mess up.

- It's hard to get right.

- You can do a lot of the same stuff by swapping out the connector.

- Even if you get a safe and light trigger...you may not like the feel.

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For the record, I don't recommend messing with the nose angle of the trigger bar. It's not "tweaker" work.

- I don't know any top glock shooter that does so.

- It's easy to mess up.

- It's hard to get right.

- You can do a lot of the same stuff by swapping out the connector.

- Even if you get a safe and light trigger...you may not like the feel.

Yes, Flex.

You've made a good point. The lighter weigth connectors have that angle change already incorporated in them. Since the part is not altered to suit, but made to task, they can account for any "intersecting" distances to remain the same, or be taylored to make it sooner or later. Since you need to remove material to achieve the same in the bar, the distance will be increased equally. If you were to be able (hint) to increase the bar's length before you changed the angle then the intersecting point could be maintained or altered, and or further enhanced by the connector. YMMV.

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Tweaking the nose is not something I recommend unless you know exactly what you are doing. It appears that Glock has settled on one TB supplier. The stamping is not the best I have seen, but one can make it work.

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