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Pretravel Reduction


Chuck Merriam

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I have a vanek trigger in an Open glock and I want to reduce the pretravel more. I know i can turn the screw more, but it will defeat the trigger safety. Can I just shave the back of the trigger safety some more to keep it actively droping down? I don't want a bump trigger...I would like a margin of safety for a new shooter that may try this gun. My limited triggers run 1.5 to 1.75 lbs just for a reference...I just don't want the thing going without my input :o

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With the trigger safety disengaged, the only way you gun will go off is still by pulling the trigger. There really is no other way to reduce pretravel that will not cancel out the trigger safety.

I don't know alot of Open shooters that allow new shooters to handle their gun...but if they understand the 4 laws they should be okay.

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You don't just risk defeating the trigger safety when shortening the pre-travel. You also can defeat the the other two safeties.

I'm not sure how Vanek set your trigger up, but I might guess that he took out about as much pre-travel as he felt comfortable with ?

I'm speculating that you are looking to do this for a shooter that has small hands?

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This trigger was fit for a G34 then taken out and put into this gun (fit is as good or better). Mainly I want it for myself..to be more like my 1911's...I know..I know. Just wanted to get a little feedback.

I know it is a dead horse and all, but the glock trigger will simply never feel like a 1911... I have both, and I have decided I just need to be happy with my Glock trigger. I don't have a Vanek, but it ain't bad...

Just accept it for what it is, and practice more.

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Take mag out and look at the bottom of the slide through the mag well.

Pull the trigger (ensure it's empty first) slowly and you can see exactly when the trigger bar engages the firing pin safety. I limit the pretravel on my triggers based on that, then modify the trigger safety so that it still engages and works as designed.

It can be done. Not too difficult. Don't change the angle on the back side of the trigger safety, you just want to reduce the thickness front to back. Don't bevel the very bottom or you'll run the risk of it not working as intended. As long as you keep the original angle it will still work as it was designed. When running stronger trigger springs with reduced firing pin springs, sometimes the trigger doesn't return far enough to engage the safety (when trigger is released slowly for example), that's when I started messing with the trigger safety. If you muck it up, it's a $7.00 part to start over.

As long as the cruciform (left tab) is still sitting on the forward shelf of the trigger mech housing, the drop safety will remain intact.

My 35 came with a Vanek, but it did not have any pretravel adjustment or reduction. I do my own anyway so it was no big deal. I think the Ghost connector is a better way to limit post travel, over the set screw that Vanek uses. The cruciform flexes a great deal after it hits the set screw (that limits the post travel). Basic physics of "a lever". This flex makes for a mushy feeling trigger. I run a 5 connector because I don't like mush.

Edited by want2race
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If you want a really crisp trigger put an 8# connector in. I get a very short, crisp 3 lb. pull with one. I need to work on that project a little more. I think a sub-3 lb. pull is possible.

I am very curious as to how one gets a 3 lbs pull while adding an 8 lbs connector. Are you relocating where the trigger spring engages the cruciform?

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I have a vanek trigger in an Open glock and I want to reduce the pretravel more. I know i can turn the screw more, but it will defeat the trigger safety. Can I just shave the back of the trigger safety some more to keep it actively droping down? I don't want a bump trigger...I would like a margin of safety for a new shooter that may try this gun. My limited triggers run 1.5 to 1.75 lbs just for a reference...I just don't want the thing going without my input :o

Could you explain where Vanek puts the pre-travel screw? Looking at the ejector housing, there doesn't seem to be enough "meat" for a set screw at the front.

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If you send him the gun he used to put one in. I am not sure if he does now. He must have jigs...but it goes right in that narrow spot in the picture above. If I get time today maybe I will take a pic of mine. It is one of the smallest hex screws I have ever seen. I am seriously thinking of trying a 5 lb disconnect to get a crisp break.

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The clencher for me using a 5 is the overall feel of the initial take up. The pull feels the same all the way until it "stacks". Then a nice clean break. With the 3.5 I can feel the cruciform dragging off the firing pin as it is released. The overall pull length is the same from start to finish, but the 3.5 is like 50/50. Half easy, half stiff (pulling down releasing the FP). With the 5 it is more like 80/20. The easy phase is longer but once it stacks, it's very short. Shorter reset too. It will never feel like a 1911 trigger, but I still like it a lot. That being said, the guy I sold my 34 to still wants a 3.5 connector so it's not for everyone.

I dropped in a 5 before my last match and proved my ideas (even if only to myself). With the longer "mush" phase of the 3.5 I was more apt to pull rounds. I was actually faster, and placed the rounds better, with the shorter breaking 5. Just my preference, but I would certainly suggest playing around with different trigger set ups until you find THE ONE.

Glocks are the pistol version of the AR15.

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There is enough "meat" in front of the trigger group to put a set screw opposite of the one depicted in the photo's of the Vanek above. Lonewolf sells trigger housings w/ the overtravel set screw installed but if you have a drill press it is easily a do-it-yourself kinda thing. There is an article in frontsight about doing the pre-travel set screw I'll see if I can find it and post it. It does take a smaller screw than the overtravel set screw.

Edited by DrKyle1
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chmerr,

You must be a trigger slapper, as opposed to somebody that shoots the reset ?

(Btw, I think there is somebody in you area that does shorten the forward travel on Glocks. He does it different than I recall seeing posted on the forum. SingleStack might know who it is. He once sold me a G34 that was done by this guy.)

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Gluing a small Delrin block in the trigger housing is an easy way to limit pre-travel. You can adjust it with a sharp Xacto knife. Since there's no real pressure the Delrin will last forever. As always, watch to make sure the safeties work!

P4300265.jpg

P4300262.jpg

Edited by Fireglock
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Wow that's blue! Yes the guys name in my area is Lin Webb. Yea I guess I am a slapper with the glocks...I have found I shoot them better with a deliberate trigger pull....a la TGO style. I guess it makes me a better all around shooter, but my real love and skill lies in the 1.5lb 1911 trigger. I have an open glock for play...and no I cannot feel the reset on a Glock.

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There are other ways to control the pre and post trigger travels than screws.

Yeah, I have just been using QuickSteel epoxy putty, but I wanted to try swapping trigger bars and connectors in search of the perfect set-up. The epoxy is not easily adjusted.

I will try bending that tab on the trigger bar someday. I'm wondering how the trigger feel will change with the spring pulling both forward and up more.

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its a concert and all the instruments must be in tune!!!!!!!!

And like an orchestra in a concert, it just takes a good director.... Lot's of them around. ;)

+1 Jerry I totaly agree. Charlie is probable the best in the business . when I have a triger question he is the first I call......

All things considered Glock trigers have relationships that must be recognized. its like any thing else there are trade offs. i have trigers with 0 take up and I like them . to get there requires alot of work to keep all the safties working . there is a popular train of thought to move the triger to the rear . this works but saftey integrity is jeperdized if you take it to far.

lets stir the pot try going the other way. think about it . I am tring to stimulate rather than inform.

john

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