Ron Rodgers Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 Has anyone else had problems with the Crank breaking on their 550B? I was reloading this morning and noticed the handle was moving a lot further than before. Unfortunately, I knew just what it was - the crank had cracked - again. The last time was about 3 years ago, and the whole reloader was returned to Dillon for repairs. I don't want to pay for all that shipping again and plan on replacing it myself. Anyone know if it's a tough job? Planned on loading about 1000 rounds this week. I'm shooting the Area 8 Championship - this Friday, and the 2 day match at East Huntingdon - this Saturday and Sunday, and wanted to also get some practice in before. Great timing !!! Tried to get Dillon to at least spring for expeditied shipping since this was the second failure, but no go. This just isn't my week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 I have a pair of 550B's, one has a LOT of miles on it, and I have never broken any major part. I have beaten that press like I hated it for YEARS and loaded a couple hundred thousand rounds on it with no problems. Pick up another one, no fooling around with primer size changes or any of that, and you always have a press to run even if you do break something major. I can't imagine what is breaking your press..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 Well if one breaks I can say it is a flaw in the casting. Now that you broke two of them, I would wonder if you are operating the press in a way which reduces its lifespan? How hard are you seating your primers or resizing your brass? What dies are you using and are you using case lube on any sort? All that aside, it sucks when gear breaks before a match. So far my 550 has not given me any real trouble, but I also try to stay well ahead of my ammo needs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tightloop Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 I am like HSMITH....I have a 550 that has lots of rounds thru it...probably over 400K without a major problem.... sorry to hear about your difficulties.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriss Grube Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 Ron, Sorry to hear you broke your CRANK! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorch Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 My Bell Crank Broke on my 550 and I called Dillion and They sent me a new one FREE. Got to take off the Arms that come down. there is a Shoulder on the Bolt that goes through the arms and the Crank won't just slideout ( i beat on mine till i looked at the drawing) comes with good instructions, good time to really clean the press, you have to take it ALL apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Keen Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 It's really really simple if you study the drawing / instructions completely BEFORE BEGINING the job. You need to loosen the allen screw on the bottom of the crank (underside) then tap out the pin. then take the c-clips off the left and right sides of the longer pin that runs through the arms & crank. The crank should just come right off at that point. Of course you will need to swap out your operating handle. But it really is just that simple. The new part will come with greatly detailed instructions. Maybe you can have Dillon send the crank to you next day air. Of course not for free, but how much is it worth to have a working press ASAP? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckS Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 The 550 I have was bought in the late 80's. I finally broke the crank a couple of years ago. They sent me the part, instructions and the "alignment tool" to get everything alinged. No big deal. That looks to be the quickest way to get back on the air. Later, Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waltermitty Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 I have replaced mine twice. First time crank only, second time crank and arms. It is fairly simple, just read the instructions carefully and completely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Rodgers Posted July 18, 2006 Author Share Posted July 18, 2006 Thanks for all the information! I use a Lee U die, Dillon powder and seating dies, and a Lee Factory crimp die - nothing unusual. I also lube the cases. I take pretty good care of the press and can't figure why it may have broken unless it is a design or manufacturing flaw. Just wondering if this was a recurring problem. The first time it happened, the Dillon rep said it almost never happens. This time they told me something along the lines of "it happens" - whatever that means. And Chriss ....... thanks for your concern Maybe see you at EH this weekend? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Front Man Posted July 19, 2006 Share Posted July 19, 2006 (edited) The "stop" is built into the bell, it's just normal wear and tear. No two aluminium castings are alike. FM Edited July 19, 2006 by Front Man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dillon Posted July 19, 2006 Share Posted July 19, 2006 Be sure to grease the pivot pins and the pivot pin holes in the crank, link arms and frame when reassembling. Use some sort of bearing grease. Do not use break-free, WD-40 or similar products to lube the machine. These aerosol lubes strip the grease out, and lead the the pins galling in the moving parts. This is a likely cause for a crank or link arm to break. Applying excessive pressure when seating primers is the other cause. Very seldom have we seen a defect in a casting. I have over 700,000 rounds of a variety of calibers loaded on my 550, and have yet to break a crank. On the other hand, I have some commercial customers using 550s and 650s that break cranks two or three times a year. The commercial customers admit to slamming the handle, as they're in a hurry, and trying to make a living at it. Often their machines don't see much maintenance either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Keen Posted July 19, 2006 Share Posted July 19, 2006 +1 on that. I just finished doing that very thing to my 550. Mine was used when I purchased it, so no telling how many thousands of rounds were loaded on it before I became the new owner, but I have loaded over 25,000 rounds myself. From 9mm, to .40, .45, .30 carbine, .38spc, .44 Magnum and so on. The machine may have seen a lack of maintenance in the past because I tore it apart simply because it seemed to be a little stiff. When I got the arms off I saw the upper pins were galled, and even a little pitted. But after cleaning with a 12GA shotgun bore brush and a little Rem Oil, then applying a new layer of bearing grease to all pins, and inside the holes of the arms and the crank, the machine moves like water on glass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Front Man Posted July 20, 2006 Share Posted July 20, 2006 Be sure to grease the pivot pins and the pivot pin holes in the crank, link arms and frame when reassembling. Use some sort of bearing grease. Do not use break-free, WD-40 or similar products to lube the machine. These aerosol lubes strip the grease out, and lead the the pins galling in the moving parts. This is a likely cause for a crank or link arm to break. Applying excessive pressure when seating primers is the other cause. Very seldom have we seen a defect in a casting. I have over 700,000 rounds of a variety of calibers loaded on my 550, and have yet to break a crank. On the other hand, I have some commercial customers using 550s and 650s that break cranks two or three times a year. The commercial customers admit to slamming the handle, as they're in a hurry, and trying to make a living at it. Often their machines don't see much maintenance either. Mike is right, I work with a lot of aluminum castings and now I know how to properly maintain my 550. Proper lubrication is everything. FM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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