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Carbon Fiber Float Tube


3gunr

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Anybody try a carbon fiber free float tube on their rifle? I have a Bushy 14.5" M4 profile that im looking to make a really light weight rifle out of. Plan to get the rifle lenght tube and cover up the gas block. I may try and cut it down to a custom lenght, anybody ever cut carbon fiber? Can you just cut it and thats it, or do you then have to heat the cut portion to keep it from fraying?? Whats the opinion of the JP adjustable gas block? Does it cut down on muzzle rise and bolt bounce if you dial it down, and wouldnt the shorter barrel benefit more than a long one??

3gunr

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Precautions on cutting carbon fiber: either wear a respirator or cut it under water. If carbon particles get in your lungs, they will never come out.

If you are using a bandsaw, run the blade backwards. This will minimize fraying. It will still fray. To clean up the fraying, just do some wet sanding.

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About carbon fiber handguards....they work great! I'm just partial to JP's aluminum ones. As for cutting them, I wouldn't begin to guess, nor would I want to, especially since you're planning on covering the block with the tube. My guess is that you want to run a rifle length tube over a carbine gas system. This will probably work as is, but you'll need a hole of some kind to access the block to adjust the gas bleeding.

As for the JP Gas block, it is the standard. Especially if you run other custom parts like the JP Low Mass Operating System or other lightened bolt carriers, you'll need to adjust the rifle to your load. It definitely makes reliability a lot less of an issue once you get it dialed in.

As for a longer vs. shorter barrel, my take is that you would get less rise from a longer barrel. This goes into impulse of the rifle being longer and smoother with a longer barrel instead of short and abrupt with the carbines. Just my $0.02. George is the man when it comes to this stuff and can explain it better than me.

SPC Richard A. White, Senior Medic

249th MP Detachment (EACF)

Camp Humphreys, ROK

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I'm using a Clark Custom carbon fiber float tube on mine. It's not there for the weight savings (carbon fiber/aluminum) but for the reduction in heat. The aluminum one I had on there would "cook" your hand after a run or if you left it in the sun without something covering the handguard, and it took a long time to cool. The carbon fiber eliminated all of those problems. I have had it for several years and have been extremely pleased with it. I'm sorry I don't know about cutting. Maybe you could call Clark and see if they can make one sized the way you want.

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  • 3 years later...

I just bought a carbon fiber free float tube for my AR-15, as recommended to me. I bought it, thinking that there would be hand guards to cover this. However, I'm only seeing pictures of this tube, without any covers. It's really flippin' ugly. Is this the way it should be or do hand guards go over it?

post-18653-1238541280_thumb.png

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The carbon tube is the handguard, no covers. If you don't like the look of the carbon then paint it.

Or go to a local skate shop and buy a sheet of skateboard tape, comes in a lot of colors and patterns, about 5 bucks, cut it to the size and shape you want, peel and stick. I have cut the stuff with a hacksaw, a wood saw and even a large tubeing cutter, some sanding required.-------------Larry

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I just bought a carbon fiber free float tube for my AR-15, as recommended to me. I bought it, thinking that there would be hand guards to cover this. However, I'm only seeing pictures of this tube, without any covers. It's really flippin' ugly. Is this the way it should be or do hand guards go over it?

If you want a pretty one get a PRI carbon fiber free float tube. But get ready to spend some coin. I wish mine would hurry up and get here!!!

Chris C.

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Well here's how the PRI tube turned out:

post-10237-1238717025_thumb.jpg

post-10237-1238717033_thumb.jpg

Very light and sturdy by the way. If you so wanted there are holds already drilled to add rails.

Chris C.

Sweet....I'm planning on putting a PRI on a a short(ish) rifle I'm going to have built up soon. R,

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The Clark Carbon fiber tube on my SBR was cut for me by Clark. If you call them and order from them ask for custom length. Great customer service!

I has them cut the tube and when I received it both ends looked the same- both ends polished and properly finished.

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  • 3 years later...

What is the weight of the: PRI GEN III FREE FLOAT FOREARM SYSTEM RIFLE - CARBON FIBER UPPER - LONG

Thanks in advance.

Edited by Yaarr
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What is the weight of the: PRI GEN III FREE FLOAT FOREARM SYSTEM RIFLE - CARBON FIBER UPPER - LONG

Thanks in advance.

Specs on tube.....

This Gen III forearm in Dark Earth Finish comes with 4 rails, 1 8.5" rail on top and 3- 3" rails at 3,6 and 9 O'clock postions. The forearm is constructed of wrapped carbon fiber, with an aluminum barrel nut and collar. Total length of the forearm is 12.5" and weights 16.5oz. including barrel nut. The clearance from the center line of the barrel to the underside of the forearm is .78". The inner diameter of the barrel nut is 1.020" Custom barrel nuts with larger ID for larger diameter barrels can be made.

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I cut a Carbon Arms/Firebird Feather carbon fiber tube on a regular band saw. I taped the tube with blue painters tape, wore a respirator and had a shop vac mounted as close as possible to the blade. No fraying and the sharp edges were dressed with a Cratex bit in a dremel using vac and respirator outdoors with a fan blowing away from me. It turned out very nice. Fraying may be a symptom of different grades of carbon fiber. YMMV and do any cutting at your own risk.

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As for cutting carbon fiber; I worked in boatyards for many years doing fiberglass work for a living and have built many high performance sailboards and have cut more carbon fins and masts than I can remember (too many resin fumes!) and all I can say is it ain't rocket science. Wear at least a good dust mask and cut it with your favorite cutting tool. For a clean cut on a non-tapered tube use a fine diamond blade in a chopsaw (power miterbox) and dress any fur with fine sand paper. Abrasive blades work better than blades with teeth for a clean cut. If yr really anal wipe a little epoxy resin on the cut edge to seal it. By the way if yr on a budget or don't have a chop saw , don't want to buy an abrasive blade....whatever....A hacksaw with a fine blade, 220 grt on a wood block to square it and 400grt wet or dry to smooth it will work too...........

Edited by Running Dog
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