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FX-10


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48 minutes ago, homeyclaus said:

Better than the 627BR bearing it replaces - there is no noticeable wear after 400+ cycles. Like I said, the roller bearing's outer race isn't designed for point loads like the ones exerted by the cam, which is why they crack. The bearing race would need to be wrapped in another material to distribute the force for it to last in this application. Unsupported bearing races on cams seems to be a recurring theme on this press.

 

I know, I know, most people say plastic bad.

 

ETA: A thousand cycles in I am finding less and less need to "power through" anything. Once the priming system is degreased and the dings removed from the tube, most hang-ups happen on case insertion. You'll feel it, and can fix it by cycling the case inserter with the index finger. The press has a massive amount of leverage, which is why breaking things on it is so easy.

Good point about the bearings 

 

I might have to buy a 3d printer now too 😂😂

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10 minutes ago, Zachjet said:

Good point about the bearings 

 

I might have to buy a 3d printer now too 😂😂

You have no idea how that can suck you in, and suddenly everything in your life needs little plastic parts.

 

If you know someone, just have them print one or two of everything, and order as you need. All the little plastic parts for the X-10 are very small prints which might not make it worthwhile to order from a 3d printing service (and certainly not worth buying a 3d printer for). I am totally comfortable with consumable components (coming from a Lee Load Master, lol), and the replacement bushings take 18 minutes to print on my super cheap Ender 3 Pro to print as solid plastic.

 

If your friend doesn't have the bandwidth, IM me and I'll mail you the priming station bumper, case pusher, and a couple of bushings. The station 1 bumper won't fit into an envelope, so I won't do that one.

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54 minutes ago, homeyclaus said:

You have no idea how that can suck you in, and suddenly everything in your life needs little plastic parts.

 

If you know someone, just have them print one or two of everything, and order as you need. All the little plastic parts for the X-10 are very small prints which might not make it worthwhile to order from a 3d printing service (and certainly not worth buying a 3d printer for). I am totally comfortable with consumable components (coming from a Lee Load Master, lol), and the replacement bushings take 18 minutes to print on my super cheap Ender 3 Pro to print as solid plastic.

 

If your friend doesn't have the bandwidth, IM me and I'll mail you the priming station bumper, case pusher, and a couple of bushings. The station 1 bumper won't fit into an envelope, so I won't do that one.

I’m shooting with my buddy’s this weekend and I’ll ask them, but if I do have to take you up on your offer I’d would only do so I could you send you a few$ for your time and shipping.   Let me see what my buddy’s say 

 

thanks again 

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here's another stupid question... only because I'm looking at getting one of these.  How tall does the setup end up being (from the bottom of the press to the tp of the case bowl)?  My current bench might be too high and I'm worried the case bowl will not fit under the rafters in the basement.

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22 minutes ago, bigdawgbeav said:

here's another stupid question... only because I'm looking at getting one of these.  How tall does the setup end up being (from the bottom of the press to the tp of the case bowl)?  My current bench might be too high and I'm worried the case bowl will not fit under the rafters in the basement.

I’ll measure tonight when I get home.  But it’s tall.. 

 the post for the case feeder splits in half, so I put the case feeder on the post.  Then connect the top of the post to the bottom half 

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1 hour ago, bigdawgbeav said:

here's another stupid question... only because I'm looking at getting one of these.  How tall does the setup end up being (from the bottom of the press to the tp of the case bowl)?  My current bench might be too high and I'm worried the case bowl will not fit under the rafters in the basement.

You need 54 inches between the top of your bench/mount to the ceiling to fully open the hopper lid

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So I completely forgot that my machine is a part waiting for replacement parts
 

But from the top of my table to my ceiling is 4 foot

 

that being said. My ceiling is unfinished and is just open. So maybe that’s why I can lift the lid to fill the case feeder   
 

edit. 
 

here is a picture I took when I first assembled it

 

IMG_4476.png

Edited by Zachjet
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4 hours ago, bigdawgbeav said:

damn... that's tall

 

Yeah it is… in all honesty. I don’t see why you couldn’t cut down the keys feeder stand a little bit.

 

I still haven’t gotten my bullet feeder to see if that would be a problem. It’s suppose to ship today/tomorrow 

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19 minutes ago, Zachjet said:

Yeah it is… in all honesty. I don’t see why you couldn’t cut down the keys feeder stand a little bit.

 

I still haven’t gotten my bullet feeder to see if that would be a problem. It’s suppose to ship today/tomorrow 

The holes in post below the case feeder are for bullet feeder that's why its so tall. If you cut it down won't be able to mount FA bullet feeder.

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  • 4 weeks later...

New to the forum, and looking for opinions.  I've budgeted quite a bit of money to get my first progressive press.  I'm kind of trying to figure out between the FX-10 or an XL750.  

 

I'd like to know what made you choose this press over a Dillon.  I realize that most were probably looking at RL-1100 when this press came out and not the 750 like I am.  However, any help would be appreciated. 

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 I cut my case feeder stand down some to fit in my garage under the door when opened. I just ordered the bullet feeder and waiting for it to arrive to see what mods or new stand I will have to make. Doesnt seem like it will be too much problem. I believe if correct the X10 is a 10 station press and the XL750 is a six station press.  Otherwise, I think its down to what you make out of the press you buy. I moved from a Lee Loadmaster to the X10. Its faster easier and my COL on the finished rounds dropped a couple of thousandths, but otherwise the bullets go bang,,

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21 minutes ago, texasdawg said:

 I cut my case feeder stand down some to fit in my garage under the door when opened. I just ordered the bullet feeder and waiting for it to arrive to see what mods or new stand I will have to make. Doesnt seem like it will be too much problem. I believe if correct the X10 is a 10 station press and the XL750 is a six station press.  Otherwise, I think its down to what you make out of the press you buy. I moved from a Lee Loadmaster to the X10. Its faster easier and my COL on the finished rounds dropped a couple of thousandths, but otherwise the bullets go bang,,

 

750 is a five station press. It is based off of the 650 which has been around for decades.

Therefore it is the more mature product.

 

The X10 is the new kid on the block. The 10 stations are intriguing but any googling will reveal some growing pains.

 

The 1100 has eight stations and is also a mature product. I find eight to be enough. Vast improvement over the 650/750.

It makes the 650 feel like a toy when I go back to it.

 

All Dillon products have a history of great customer service. If anything goes wrong with a 750 they will replace it free for the life of the machine. The 1100 has a two year warranty; after that you pay for replacement parts. Not really a problem given how the machine is very robust.

 

If I really wanted 10 stations I'd get a Mark 7.

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So after my wife purchased me an X – 10 for Christmas I set it up and mine had a consistent issue with flipping primers. Short version is that’s the primer pin wasn’t centered to the shell plate. Customer service was very good and they sent me all new small primer assembly and new pin out pretty quickly.
 

I installed all the new parts and although the problem got significantly better, it still was not still not 100% right. 

 

After messing with the press this week I discovered that the swage Pin was making contact with the floor plate and causing the floor plate to clock a little bit and making the primer pin not be centered to the shell plate. I called them Tuesday morning, and I had new swage pin by Thursday night  

I got around to installing the new swage Pin  and now the press runs like a top. 

Part of the reason why it took so long to figure out my problem is that I haven’t had much time to mess with it, being super busy at work. 


so now that I got her running right Im super satisfied with the upgrade from my hornaday LNL. That being said, I believe if I didn’t have the hornaday first I would have ripped this press off my bench and slammed it against the wall.😂. It’s a totally different feel from my LnL and a lot more going on with double the stages and I’m thankful I learned on the lnl 


Edit- to touch on the post above, I agree that the mark 10 is the bench mark for 10 stage presses. But I could not justify spending that much money. The way I see it is I’m all in with a bullet feeder, and floor

plate for around 1500 bucks, not including the dies, which you need no matter what press you buy.  So for the money I saved I could deal with working some bugs out. 
 

Edited by Zachjet
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That is really good to hear. 

I agree that for the price the FX10 has Mark 7 beat for sure.

I'm curious if Frankford (or Mark 7?) will be offering an automation option at some point.

 

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18 minutes ago, ddc said:

That is really good to hear. 

I agree that for the price the FX10 has Mark 7 beat for sure.

I'm curious if Frankford (or Mark 7?) will be offering an automation option at some point.

 

I would think so because the tool head has 9x 3.5 mm jacks for the smart toolhead. 

and if anyone is having similar issues, feel free to send me a private message I’ll give you my phone number 

 

I know when I talk into my cell phone while working it’s not the most articulate writing.😂

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1 hour ago, Zachjet said:


so now that I got her running right Im super satisfied with the upgrade from my hornaday LNL. That being said, I believe if I didn’t have the hornaday first I would have ripped this press off my bench and slammed it against the wall

Good to know.  This will be my first foray into a progressive.   The closest thing I've used is a Lee Turret with auto index.  I've decided when I upgrade this time I'm not going through cheap presses to ultimately wind up with a more expensive press.  So I imagine I'll have a greater learning curve than you did.

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3 minutes ago, taylorce1 said:

Good to know.  This will be my first foray into a progressive.   The closest thing I've used is a Lee Turret with auto index.  I've decided when I upgrade this time I'm not going through cheap presses to ultimately wind up with a more expensive press.  So I imagine I'll have a greater learning curve than you did.

My advice would be don’t use the automatic case feeder. And don’t use the bullet feeder. 
Figure out what each stage does by themselves and figure out what are the symptoms of something wrong. 
don’t have expectation of running 500+ rounds and hour until you figure out the machine. 
I think the machine it’s self is extremely simple. When you start adding 10 pieces of brass doing things, it gets complicated.


also scrub the machine good when you first open it, because it’s coated heavily in anti-rust oil.  And get an old toothbrush and clean the threads in the tool head good 

 

 

and this is the link to the bearings for the index arm.  I broke one of them already. 
https://www.amazon.com/TRB-RC-6x19x6mm-Precision-Bearings/dp/B071D499GB?pd_rd_w=mAWSR&content-id=amzn1.sym.b854a5c2-4475-41f8-a6d4-df92b2868104&pf_rd_p=b854a5c2-4475-41f8-a6d4-df92b2868104&pf_rd_r=7TN5EXAR09JQ4S1WW5TC&pd_rd_wg=SAHzy&pd_rd_r=b9e47336-e6f7-42be-bb64-4b8933c84675&pd_rd_i=B071D499GB&psc=1&ref_=pd_basp_m_rpt_ba_s_1_sc

 

 

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I’m still having trouble with priming assembly. It’s mostly a brass issue but I’ve gotten to the point where I can feel something is off and I remove a piece of brass from the station next to priming and see it’s unprimed. I then know a primer is going to get stuck in the gear so I poke it out of the gear before it gets caught in between the gear and assembly. It’s because of a crimped primer pocket that my swager will not swage down well enough. Looking at the swaging rod you can tell it’s getting worn down a little already. Other than that I haven’t had a case fail to feed onto the plate. Since turning up the speed on the brass collator/feeder, I haven’t had a case jam happen at the top of the case tube. I’ve replaced one bearing on the indexing arm which if it goes out again I will replace with a nylon bushing since those can take a beating. I don’t have a facebook so I can’t view the owners group so I can’t tell what others are having trouble with. 

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4 hours ago, Thomas918 said:

I’m still having trouble with priming assembly. It’s mostly a brass issue but I’ve gotten to the point where I can feel something is off and I remove a piece of brass from the station next to priming and see it’s unprimed. I then know a primer is going to get stuck in the gear so I poke it out of the gear before it gets caught in between the gear and assembly. It’s because of a crimped primer pocket that my swager will not swage down well enough. Looking at the swaging rod you can tell it’s getting worn down a little already. Other than that I haven’t had a case fail to feed onto the plate. Since turning up the speed on the brass collator/feeder, I haven’t had a case jam happen at the top of the case tube. I’ve replaced one bearing on the indexing arm which if it goes out again I will replace with a nylon bushing since those can take a beating. I don’t have a facebook so I can’t view the owners group so I can’t tell what others are having trouble with. 

First . Just to touch on that problem I had, are the primer and swag rods centered to the shell plate? 
 

Is it all brass Or just certain headstamp 

I’ve given up on 1k21/22 brass and I’ve been pulling them all 

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44 minutes ago, Zachjet said:

First . Just to touch on that problem I had, are the primer and swag rods centered to the shell plate? 
 

Is it all brass Or just certain headstamp 

I’ve given up on 1k21/22 brass and I’ve been pulling them all 

Yeah my rods are centered. The priming rod is maybe a touch off based off the mark it leaves on the primer on hard to prime cases. The rod is perfectly centered through the cutout on the shell plate and priming gear though so it seems perfectly centered based on that. I’m using ginex primers which are on the large size. This batch of brass was pulled off of a police range so the problem brass was crimped Winchester and a few European pieces. I had a few slivers of brass that was the remainder of a ring crimp that was pushed into the primer pocket from the swage rod. It didn’t allow the primer to seat and when the plate indexes it knocks the primer down and back into the gear and then gets caught up. Good news though, I haven’t had the first problem I had ages ago where the primer wheel was randomly catching on the upstroke so that’s a plus. I’ve kept the priming assembly cleaned and gunk free which solved that issue I think.

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