homeyclaus

You have no idea how that can suck you in, and suddenly everything in your life needs little plastic parts. If you know someone, just have them print one or two of everything, and order as you need. All the little plastic parts for the X-10 are very small prints which might not make it worthwhile to order from a 3d printing service (and certainly not worth buying a 3d printer for). I am totally comfortable with consumable components (coming from a Lee Load Master, lol), and the replacement bushings take 18 minutes to print on my super cheap Ender 3 Pro to print as solid plastic. If your friend doesn't have the bandwidth, IM me and I'll mail you the priming station bumper, case pusher, and a couple of bushings. The station 1 bumper won't fit into an envelope, so I won't do that one.

Better than the 627BR bearing it replaces - there is no noticeable wear after 400+ cycles. Like I said, the roller bearing's outer race isn't designed for point loads like the ones exerted by the cam, which is why they crack. The bearing race would need to be wrapped in another material to distribute the force for it to last in this application. Unsupported bearing races on cams seems to be a recurring theme on this press. I know, I know, most people say plastic bad. ETA: A thousand cycles in I am finding less and less need to "power through" anything. Once the priming system is degreased and the dings removed from the tube, most hang-ups happen on case insertion. You'll feel it, and can fix it by cycling the case inserter with the index finger. The press has a massive amount of leverage, which is why breaking things on it is so easy.

See use of a bushing instead of a bearing. It rotates just as smoothly as a ball bearing does, and can withstand the point loads much better. In this case it's 3d printed, but that's not a requirement.

Happy to make a variant of the design if you need it - I am only loading 223 and 9mm on that press at this time.

Sure: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6364912 to center the case at the priming station. Different bump sizes are there. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6364927 is the improved case pusher. I also printed out this, it seems to help: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6352355 - the designer there cross-posts, I generally only post my stuff on Thingiverse. I'll take some photos of the bushing I printed that replaces the bearing. The bearing used isn't designed for point loads on the outer race, which is why they crack. A plastic disc/bushing/bearing/spacer is much better suited, and the center shaft is slick enough that it'll turn really easily if it needs to be.

Sounds like they're making an effort to support the machine though. My emails have gone unanswered, but with a caliper I made a better shell pusher and 3d printed it, and some other bumpers and spacers in the right places. The index link's bearing are ... a fetish. There is no need for a cartridge bearing there, and I 3d printed a roller of identical dimensions, and it turns fine on the polished shaft.

That's why it's called "Frankford Arsenal" and not "Frankfurt Arsenal" - two very different places. I doubt there is a lot from Frankford Arsenal available in Europe, I have not seen 220/240V options for any of their electrical gizmos. FWIW I bought one in November. Coming from a Lee Load Master this thing is a lot less like a Rube Goldberg machine, and someone had one heck of a ball bearing fetish. I 3d-printed a new feeder, and a couple of centering bumpers, and it has been running great. I didn't degrease the powder dropper enough so rifle charges weren't as consistent as I'd like them to be for 9mm I am running the Lee Auto Disc Pro since I needed an expander anyways I am going to 3d-print a bullet feeder next One of the ball bearing external shells on the indexing arm cracked, which prevented indexing. No idea why anyone thought this needed a ball bearing. 3d printed a bushing the same size as the bearing, it spins as smoothly on the shaft as the original bearing did, and back in business. For some reason FA only sells the whole arm as an assembly, for $15 (which is cheap) but out of stock, of course. Priming - one also needs to degrease the heck out of all that stuff, and once you have a primer jam, the bottom of the aluminum tube inside the primer feed tube gets chewed up, which makes a repeat occurrence much more likely. Hit it with some 300 grit, it's smooth, and no more issues

With the shell plates I have for mine there is enough vertical play in the shell groove that the rod can take an 8th of a turn, sometimes a quarter, and still not make a difference in how the primer is seated, if you're using a hold-down die up top and back it up appropriately. If the rod is bent it may center it enough to be reliable until the new part arrives. Mine stopped doing anything weird priming when I backed off all the adjustments, put a primed case in the priming station, and followed the adjustment procedure. It seems that the rod can, and does flex when it's over-adjusted. Obviously the top of the rod and the priming mechanism needs to be degreased and gunk-free. I am really liking mine, although I use a lot of leftover Lee parts for pistol loading, like the Pro disk powder measure with the built-in expander.

Mine have now had enough sand through them that striker engagement point has a mirror shine, and the trigger is smooth and crisp. I really have no complaints about it. I have always run 124 gr PD FMJs over 4.1 gr of Titegroup as default, it runs a-ok with those and is minute of a-zone and steel plate accurate. I might do a run with a slower powder to see, but IMHO fast powders is where it's at. I tore both guns down and flushed out the factory lube and made sure everything was smooth and slick. Funny, I came from a CZ derivative too, the AR-24. I shot it until it rattled like a shopping cart.

Yes. I think this was Beretta's best new product launch to date. They had everything pretty much available on their web site when it came out, including fiber-optic sights and a baseplate to fit the rear sight dovetail to mount an RDO if one could not wait for the RDO models to be released. Proprietary dovetails, yes, but when Allegheny Gun Works turns the install around in less than a week for under 40 bucks I am not sure it's that big an issue. The only con to having all this when the product launched is that the other accessory makers had little incentive to get in on it, and obviously the proprietary dovetails stop one from using the other manufacturers. As it is, I compete with the full size, and the compact is my EDC. My full size is almost at its second year of service anniversary, and has had zero problems, accuracy has been fine, and it shoots soft for a polymer framed gun. The compact has done courses, shot through car windows, smashed car windows, and rolled in glass, puddles, grass, dirt and brass, and kept going. At the beginning I bought the P10C and the APX, and ended up keeping the APX. I like the trigger on the P10C better I'll admit, but the grip, ergos, and feel of the APX work better for me.

I have one, and run it in IDPA and 3Gun. Works well for me with all kinds of ammo, ate dirt and mud and kept running, recoil is mild especially with the steel spring guide, and had excellent feel and ergonomics. Stock trigger is close to a P10-C or Walther PPQ.I picked one up when they had the special with a free holster and couple of extra magazines - it was kind of tough to argue against gun, 5 mags, and a holster for $500 OTD.

Late last year I scored a Glock 19 with the "NIB-X Battleworn Finish" for a price I could not pass up at a pawn shop. Yeah, I know, it's like ripped jeans, but it's NiB, cleans easily, and for EDC is less likely to rust at the beach FWIW. I also know there are some stock Glocks with more aggressive serrations and they look like they're on the USPSA Production list, but since they're likely different generations and models, that might not be a legitimate argument. Given the slide milling Legal Guns Inc. performed on some percentage of the guns they sold in Gen3 and Gen4 trims, is this USPSA production legal given the volume of the guns produced, and the front serrations on the slide?

I had a great time, thanks to everyone who helped at the match. Seems like I am not the only one bit by a problem in the reloading process. That sort of thing made stages 2 and 3 painful. It's not like I shoot well normally, but this was exceptionally bad.

Based on personal experience, break the 180 with even just the muzzle of the shotgun when slung, it's a match DQ. I'd expect the only exception is if the shotgun is known empty or condition 3 and had not been fired on the stage yet. At least I got a match DQ for that, with an empty shotgun and open chamber.

Where are the squads posted? Looks like I got left off that email thing again Also, if anyone wants a ride from NoVA or the Richmond VA area, or somewhere in between, I have plenty of room in my truck. I'll probably end up staying at the EconoLodge in Cave City, one exit over. Not great, but not miserable either. ETA: I had zero trouble last year with my front-wheel-drive stick shift. Knocking the rear bumper loose on the first BRM3G in VA fixed all ground clearance issues...