medic21 Posted December 23, 2005 Share Posted December 23, 2005 I currently use TiteGroup for my 45 acp FMJ and SWC in my Dillon 550. Bullet weight varies from 200 to 230 grains. I called Dillon about the powder charge varying up to +/- 0.3 grains per round they said it was to be expected since I was not using a ball-type powder. Seems I may need to change powders since +/- 0.3 grains is significant to me and I choose not to trickle each load to the desired charge. Dillon recommended either Win 231 or HP 38. What is the plus/minus for 231 and HP38? I also reload 9mm. Which ball-type powder would you recommend for this? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Hayden Posted December 23, 2005 Share Posted December 23, 2005 I use TG for everything now . You might watch how the cases are bing filled. The only time I see swings like that, is on the first case through, it seems if the powder measure cycles without a case, the first case through will over charge. So now, I just make sure that first case gets pulled off the press. Follow this anytime you have a gap in the loading, you're +/- may get a lot closer. When weighing the 5-10 charges to get the average, they should be consecutive cases. If I run this way, I'll always get within .1 of a grain. 10 charges at 4.7, will generally give me 46.9 to 47.1 (but usually it'll be 47). On rifle charges, I've noticed up to a full grain difference (obviously other powders), when the press cycles through without a case, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Hostetter Posted December 23, 2005 Share Posted December 23, 2005 Winchester 231 works well for both the 45 and the 9mm......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinMike Posted December 23, 2005 Share Posted December 23, 2005 That doesn't sound sight. I could see where "ball" type powders might be a hair more consistent and not have bridging problems, but +/- .3 grain variance? I load lots of Clays (VERY bulky) with my 550B and I've never had any big variance issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvmichael Posted December 24, 2005 Share Posted December 24, 2005 Try AA5. Meters perfect for me. I also load lots of Clays and it meters perfect also. (Dillon 550) Maybe your measure needs to be cleaned? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPatterson Posted December 24, 2005 Share Posted December 24, 2005 I have found that I get more accurate powder drops with a case in every station. With Tite Group I remove the locator button & drop 3 loads of powder into the case, then dump that back into the powder measure. Then drop 2 loads into the case put into the scale pan & repeat for 10 loads to get the average. Put the test case back into the shell plate & replace the locator button. Dump powder & rotate but do not place a bullet into this case as you have probably changed the tensile strength of the case mouth. Return to your normal sequence & catch the first case, dump the powder back into the measure & put the test case into the sizing die station. Try to operate the handle the same with every stroke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AGYoung Posted December 26, 2005 Share Posted December 26, 2005 I've been using WW231 since I started reloading 10+ years ago using a 550 & now a 650. Once the powder die is set, there isn't an change. I check every 100 or so just to make sure and in the last 10 years, not a single problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harmon Posted January 1, 2006 Share Posted January 1, 2006 231 is a flattened ball powder, so is titegroup. the flattened spheres in 231 are LARGER than titegroup....just a FYI. Accurate arms Number2 is about as fine of a fast buring powder your gonna get in the 45....number 5 would be dirty same about number 7.. number 2 in the 45 isnt really clean either.. Im currently loading trail boss in the 45 auto...its big, flaky and i get consistent powder charges within .1 of a grain. same thing with clays...so i dont think switchin powders is gonna make it any better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugs Bunny Posted January 1, 2006 Share Posted January 1, 2006 Use lots of TG and always seems to stay w/in a tenth? Did have a problem recently though. Began watching powder bar which was not always going to full left extension, then would vary 3/10+ bell crank allen to tight. cured the problem fast. Bar did not need cleaning, BTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
medic21 Posted January 10, 2006 Author Share Posted January 10, 2006 Use lots of TG and always seems to stay w/in a tenth? Did have a problem recently though. Began watching powder bar which was not always going to full left extension, then would vary 3/10+ bell crank allen to tight. cured the problem fast. Bar did not need cleaning, BTW. I also noticed that my powder bar does not always return to the left. This may indeed account for the variance case to case. From a previous thread on this board dating back to April 2003 I read that this was a common problem back then and was solved by adding rubber bands or springs to the powder bar. One person recently commented that he slightly loosened the bolt on the cam and the problem went away. Thanks to all for your suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD45 Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 Harmongreer said it well. Most ball powder is "flattened ball". Titegroup is a Ball powder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dillon Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 Titegroup as a rule should throw within +/- .1grains, with a rare and occasional drop of +/- .2 grains. Be sure the powder bar travels the full distance over well before the handle bottoms out. Cases should be flared at least .010" larger at the mouth than a sized, unflared case. This ensures complete activation of the measure even with minor variations in case length. Next, be sure the blue wing nut at the bottom of the powder measure return rod is set correctly. Push forward on the handle of the machine as if seating a primer. The blue wing nut should be tight enough to noticeably compress the spring above the wing nut. Now check the lock nut that holds the bellcrank in place. If loose, it can allow the bellcrank cube to slip out, leading to irregular powder charges. Finally, use a cotton swab and alcohol to clean the interior of the powder funneland the steel drop tube pressed into the bottom of the powder measure. Dump the powder, remove the powder bar and spacer, wipe off these pieces using alcohol, wipe out the interior of the measure body where the powder bar scoots through. An extreme rarity, with the powder bar removed, inspect the bottom interior of the powder bar cavity where the steel drop tube is pressed in. Sometimes a slightly short tube is made and pressed in. If this occurs, there is a gap where the tube isn't pressed in completely, allowing a few granules of powder to get caught on top of the drop tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Front Man Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Anyone try 4756 with 230 JHP's? FM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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