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Super 1050 and Crimped 9mm brass


RangerTrace

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So, I've been loading 9mm on my 1050 for several years now and have never had an issue until recently.  I have the swager installed on my 1050, but twice this weekend the press locked up.  It appears the swager won't open the pocket on the crimped cases.  I've checked and it's going up into the primer pocket as it should.  I already chunked them in the trash or I'd post a pic......

 

thoughts?

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There really isn't much of finesse there - if the swager rod gets stopped and it's *not* off center or otherwise impeded by anything other than the crimp, you can either power through it and force the swaging, or you can stop the press and remove the brass. The purpose of the swager is to force the opening of a certain size to ensure a primer will fit on the next station. So, the rod will either get through and make the opening, or it will stop the press before the potential kaboom at the next station. 

 

I'd check alignment to make sure the rod is in the center of the case, then make a decision on how much force is too much and either accept the stoppage or add some force. Of course, make sure the backer is set up correctly so you're not adding stress to the shellplate. 

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Also, check the tip of the swager rod as that can be a potential problem. It should be slightly beveled so that the upward force initially pushes the crimp to the side, not straight up. 

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3 hours ago, RangerTrace said:

thoughts

The thickness of the 9mm base varies between brands enough to create difference in depth of the swage rod.  The answer is to get the FW Arms self centering hold down die, https://fwarms.com/shop/reloading/hold-downs/fw-arms-auto-case-centering-dshd

 

You could the hold down die adjusted for thinner bases and then the thick one comes along and it stops. 

 

Also when you write “locked up” we assume it’s at the swage station. Possible two issues if it’s not a hold down problem, blocked pocket (primer still there) or undersized pocket.

 

You could buy the VP electric pocket reamer for the 1050 from Immortobot to power cut the pockets. 


Oh the simple joys of reloading… not.

 

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Typical 1050, when it jams on the down stroke, It is usually the primer system, which I suspected this time.  However, once I cleared everything off the plate, it continued to run and seat primers just fine.  I've also noticed a couple of cases that the primer didn't pop out like it normally does.  Of course I don't notice it until I've smashed another primer on top of the old one........  

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If there is a ring still in there the end of the primer got punched out and the "ring" is left, hence called a ringer.  This normally happens when the brass is wet for a long period of time and the priming compound becomes glue.  I once bought 6K of military headstamped .38 special from the 70s and after the 4th ringer, in which I popped another primer, I just set the press up and processed the whole batch and inspected them.  There was 6 more ringers in the batch. 

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Loaded another 500 rounds today and had one case that felt wrong in the resizing die.  It caused my depriming pin to push out of the collet bushing.  The case had a bunch of dried polish and media in it.  Anyway, as I went to get my Lee U die set up again, I found a .22 case stuck on the pin.  I have no idea how long it has been there.   I ending up installing a new, unused Lee 9mm sizing die I had laying around that I had forgot about.  Crazy how much easier it is to pull the handle without the "U" die.

IMG_2130.jpeg

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1 hour ago, RangerTrace said:

Loaded another 500 rounds today and had one case that felt wrong in the resizing die.  It caused my depriming pin to push out of the collet bushing.  The case had a bunch of dried polish and media in it.  Anyway, as I went to get my Lee U die set up again, I found a .22 case stuck on the pin.  I have no idea how long it has been there.   I ending up installing a new, unused Lee 9mm sizing die I had laying around that I had forgot about.  Crazy how much easier it is to pull the handle without the "U" die.

IMG_2130.jpeg

🤣 Center punched that sucker!

Edited by Farmer
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On 6/11/2023 at 1:07 PM, RangerTrace said:

I ending up installing a new, unused Lee 9mm sizing die I had laying around that I had forgot about.  Crazy how much easier it is to pull the handle without the "U" die.

 

 

Sizing and powder drop neck expander are the two problematic dies in any setup. That's why some of us started preprocessing the brass, where on pass one it's depriming, swaging (also used as a test for depriming problems), then sizing and neck expansion. The second pass keeps the universal depriming (just in case), there is no swaging (activator rod removed from the toolhead) and no sizing (would negate the neck expansion from step 1). Amazing how smooth the reloading can be if the brass is not fighting the press :-). 

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My RL1050 has jammed once from a ringer where Federal nickel brass with the red sealant allowed the top of the primer to rip off leaving the sides of the primer in the case.

 

The other instance is depriming and swaging crimped brass. Somehow the decapped primer made it's way into the 2nd station and got mashed in between the swaging rod and the press body. Had this happen again this morning.

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5 hours ago, PhotoRecon said:

My RL1050 has jammed once from a ringer where Federal nickel brass with the red sealant allowed the top of the primer to rip off leaving the sides of the primer in the case.

 

The other instance is depriming and swaging crimped brass. Somehow the decapped primer made it's way into the 2nd station and got mashed in between the swaging rod and the press body. Had this happen again this morning.

I think sometimes they don’t fall free of the pocket and get drug around. I had a bunch hang up in my Lee APP and didn’t notice right away that one had pushed the de-capping pin up just a hair. Re-set and good to go. 

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