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1911/2011 hammer and sear stoning/polishing questions


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I’m looking at different jigs and polishing stones to do my own trigger job. Just wondering what grit stones you guys use to take off and polish the metal. 
 

I saw the true radius sear jig looks like it’s leading the pack when it comes to sears. I’m assuming most guys take a tiny bit of material off the hammer hooks until the creep is gone? 

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11 minutes ago, Nick_shoots_fast said:

I’m looking at different jigs and polishing stones to do my own trigger job. Just wondering what grit stones you guys use to take off and polish the metal. 
 

I saw the true radius sear jig looks like it’s leading the pack when it comes to sears. I’m assuming most guys take a tiny bit of material off the hammer hooks until the creep is gone? 

As a true proponent of the TR jig, I have always followed John Harrison's excellent directions for correct stone use:

 

https://shop.harrisoncustom.com/images/uploaded/pdf/HD-806 True Radius PRO Sear Jig.pdf

 

My go-to hammer/sear combo has been the Extreme Engineering Lite Speed series; and with the Wire EDM manufacturing I find the hammer needs little to no stoning for a glass rod, no creep brake when combined with a TR prepped sear.

 

https://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Browse-by-Manufacturer/Extreme-Engineering

 

Of course, YMMV.............

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I am a big fan of the Power Custom fixture for bench work, having owned one for many years.  The Marvel Custom unit is nice for sears, plus it is more-portable.  I keep one in my to-go toolbox that travels with me to matches.  (The Power unit is anything but portable.)

 

Lots of folks use the 1/2X1/2X6 Norton India stones for trigger work.  Those work really well for cutting down hammer hooks, but I will use a similarly-sized Hard Arkansas stone for sear work.  The Arkansas stones polish better.  The Fine Nortons just ain't fine enough...

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I am a lover of True Radius sears as well.  Buy the pro version of the jig from Harrison Custom and use it on EGW long nose sears.  They are a couple thou longer than .402 specifically to allow a TR to be put on.  I have the earlier version of the jig with a constant .402" radius.  The newer pro version has .402 through .404.  So you can start at .404 and touch up shorter if you ever need to.  EGW hammers are superb.  The only thing I've ever had to do to the is polish the hooks to a mirror finish.  I'm anal about that.  A Brownell's ceramic trigger track stone is perfect for that.  Their super fine white ceramic stone is perfect for putting a mirror finish on the TR once you get it shaped.

Edited by zzt
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Caution:  some of Harrison Custom's stuff requires work.  I'd expect to have to polish the hammer hooks.  Also, his sear is the fattest around.  You'll have to fit the TS to it.

 

If you don't want to buy the tools and jigs, just drop in an EGW ignition kit.  Every one I've used literally dropped in and worked.  Granted, all the holes in the receivers and frames were in the right places.  If they are not, nothing is going to drop in and work.

Edited by zzt
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2 hours ago, zzt said:

Caution:  some of Harrison Custom's stuff requires work.  I'd expect to have to polish the hammer hooks.  Also, his sear is the fattest around.  You'll have to fit the TS to it.

 

If you don't want to buy the tools and jigs, just drop in an EGW ignition kit.  Every one I've used literally dropped in and worked.  Granted, all the holes in the receivers and frames were in the right places.  If they are not, nothing is going to drop in and work.

Excellent advise!

 

👍

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IMO. the advantage of a True Radius on the sear nose is you cannot get it wrong.  Plus, it is very forgiving.  Cut the secondary and no creep.  Leave the secondary off if you like and you have a roll trigger.

 

If you are cutting planes on your sear, even with the Wigand or Power Custom, you have to be perfect.  A thou off either way and it isn't perfect.  It takes some time to get proficient at it.  Trust me.  With the True Radius jig, even a noob gets it right the first time.  Just sayin'.

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24 minutes ago, zzt said:

IMO. the advantage of a True Radius on the sear nose is you cannot get it wrong.  Plus, it is very forgiving.  Cut the secondary and no creep.  Leave the secondary off if you like and you have a roll trigger.

As explained by Chuck Warner himself!

 

👍😉

 

1on1.png

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  • 1 month later...

I have the marvel and the stick one the marvel is amazing if you follow the instructions that paired with brownells stones and file

got me the best trigger i ever had 

got it down to 12oz reliable 

i put it back to 1.5lbs just because but wow i was impressed 

i have heard great things about the true radius it was in my cart when i purchased the marvel

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  • 1 month later...

It's quite a learning curve at 1911 trigger work but with Extreme Engineering ultra Lite sear, Koenig Hammer ,Extreme ultra Lite Disconnect, Colt sear spring, ISMI 17# main spring I still get a 16 oz break with 80,000 rounds thru it and with all original parts. The Extreme Sear is a work of art.

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27 minutes ago, TONY BARONE said:

It's quite a learning curve at 1911 trigger work but with Extreme Engineering ultra Lite sear, Koenig Hammer ,Extreme ultra Lite Disconnect, Colt sear spring, ISMI 17# main spring I still get a 16 oz break with 80,000 rounds thru it and with all original parts. The Extreme Sear is a work of art.

Couldn't agree more!  EE parts ARE some of the best IMO!

 

👍

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If you want to do a traditional First/Second surface sear cut I really like the Marvel Ultimate 1911 Sear Jig. The removable sear block has holes in it which allow you to put a feeler gauge between the sear feet and the location pin hole. Then simply use the desired feeler gauge size to replicate the exact same First Surface cut angle. This allows you to quickly and easily set and replicate the first surface cut angle after removing and replacing the sear from the jig.

 

I have used this Marvel Ultimate 1911 Sear Jig to do at least 50 different trigger jobs for myself and others over the years and its a mega time saver. I also prefer the Brownells Ceramic Stones (Black & White). I listed links to these goodies below. I have no affiliation with Brownells so I am not posting their links to "Shill" their products for a kickback. Brownells is simply a great retailer for shooting stuff and also supports the Practical Shooting Sports which is awesome.

 

https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/handgun-tools/ultimate-1911-sear-jig/

 

https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/paint-metal-prep/abrasives-polishing/hammersear-file--stone-kit/

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