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Tungsten Guide Rods


EricW

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EricW,

I installed one of the non-captured tungsten rods from Glockmiester in my G35. IMO the weight gain was very noticeable and I like the way it handles. My perception was reduced flip in a pistol that flips a lot. I think they are worth the money. As far as reliability, too soon to tell. Only had it 2 months. No issues so far......

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One thing I don't like about the current crop of tungsten rods is they are undersize in diameter. The one I have only measures .243" in diameter and is 3.175" long. I plan on making one in the next day or two that will be .270" x 4". I think T.H.E. makes a longer one for the G34 & G35, but it has a small O.D. also.

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I remember taking Todd Jarrett's class several years ago and two of the guys in the class were shooting Glocks. First thing Todd told them was to put as much weight as they possibly could into the frame of the Glock to try and control it better. It also kind of re-emphasizes what Brian said about weight in the frame and Grams Engineering magwells.

I have one on my STI and I gotta say, "Thank you Brian", it has never shot this well and handled so nice. When Grams comes out with his Glock magwell, it should be a hot seller.

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Frankenstein is now wearing a tungsten guiderod (from THE maybe?) with a 12# ISMI flat spring and a THE brass magwell. The weight addition is quite noticeable, and the balance is terrific. Since he's set up for GSSF U/L competition where you can only load 10 rounds in the mag, the added weight on the magwell is especially welcome. Both accessories purchased from Custom Glock Racing.

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Brian,

My muzzle (stock Glock 35) flips like a banshee.  I shot a Para (P16/40) and a Caspian double-stack 40 tonight.  I tried a quick Bill drill with each.  Both guns flipped less.  I don't know that they were faster for me though.

At the Limited Nationals, I (a C class shooter) was able to place 13th, 54th, 57th and 60th on the get your gun out and blast the targets type stages.  I was shooting Blazer ammo (187pf).  I wasn't just throwing shots at the targets.  I was seeing pretty well.  

My question is just how much does a lot of muzzle flip slow a shooter down?  

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Muzzle flip slows you down depending on what you see, and what the limiting factor of the target is.  On a wide open blaster, you won't be slowed down as much.  (If your vision is on, you might not have any time difference.)  But on a pair of targets overlapped with a no-shoot, you'll be slowed down quite a bit as you wait to see that the sights are off the white and on the tan before shooting.

A club near us shoots stages that are wide open, with lots of targets, few no-shoots and close ranges.   When they visit us and have to deal with no-shoots, hard cover and poppers at difficult angles to the barricade, either their times greatly increase or they whack lots of no-shoots.

If you want to see what muzzle rise does to your shooting, try pairs on either side of a no-shoot, not Bill drills.

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Thanks Patrick.  I'll give that a shot (or quite a few shoots).

I think that I try to ignore the no-shoots...I am going for the A-zone anyway.  Sounds like a good drill to try with the timer.  I know that often what we feel and what the timer tells us are two different things.

What you say makes perfectly good sense to me.  With a NS you have to be sure of your A's.

(Edited by Flexmoney at 2:42 pm on Sep. 28, 2001)

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That's an interesting observation about the no shoots.  My major problem with flip is up/down placement.  I'm still learning how to time pulling down the muzzle for the second tap. With side to side placement with a no shoot, I have no worries.  I discovered last night that when I was pulling the gun out of recoil I actually pulled the front sight down too far lost it beneath the front of the slide.  

At least this is better than my previous problem where I used to milk the grip and pull the shots off to the left...  By the way, I'm having a tough time getting the splits on my double taps under 0.2.  Any recommendations on how to double a Glock fast?  (Besides the anvil?)

Thanks!!

Eric

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I don't think I'm letting the trigger go too far forward.  I just haven't focused on that for a while.  I'll make a point of paying attention to it the next time I head out.  

Thanks for the reminder!!

By the way, I just got my Tungsten guide rod in from the Glockmeister.  It looks good.  As far as one concern about the diameter of the guide rod, this one is about as big as it can get without binding on the spring.  It measures right about .250".  The price was right too, about $40 - GM has them on sale.  

I'll send in a performance report on the rod, but right now it seems to dramatically change the way the gun balances - a very good thing.  

Eric

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EricW,

Don't get too caught up in the length of the trigger pull thing as far as speed goes.  There are many revolver guys that flat out scoot with their double action pulls.

What caught my eye from your earlier post was this statement:

I'm still learning how to time pulling down the muzzle for the second tap.

I see one great thing...the still learning, and three things that could be trouble.  

The how to time, pulling and second tap are things to be aware of.  Depending on what context they were meant they might be indicators of thing to avoid.  Or they could be just fine.

I won't attempt to tackle the issue.  Perhaps Brian will shed some light here.  

And, thanks for the lead on the guide rod that glockmeister has on sale.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well,  promised a range report, so here it goes:

The Glockmeister tungsten guide rod gets two thumbs up.  It wasn't a life-changing experience or anything, but the controllability improvement was certainly worth $40-45.  No jams or malfunctions in 5-600 rounds so far.

I don't like how the capture feature works though.  The screw that retains the spring needs some type of locking mechanism like a recess with an O-ring or the like.  Currently, it's rather difficult to securely tighten the screw w/o the assistance of a vice or strap wrench to really torque it down.  

Overall, it's a good thing.  I like it.  You just might too.

Eric

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Hey guys,

I have a tungsten guide rod in my G35 and a seattle slug and I notice a nice difference in recoil.  My double taps are much faster and so is target to target acquisition.  If you want to shoot factory ammo I suggest Winchester 165 gr.  It shoots much smoother than the Blazer.

Debbie

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Singlestack, put HTML code on either side of the words you want to italicize.

Click the "EDIT" icon on this post to see the HTML code used

You'll learn mucho by knowing a little code

usa_flag_2.gif

<font size="10" color="red">GoodShooting</font>

(Edited by TDean at 4:31 pm on Oct. 30, 2001)

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Kyle,

I am currently only loading 180 gr. Montana Gold with  about  5.3 of WAP.  It gives me about a 175 power factor.  

I typically like a heavier bullet because it takes the snap out of the recoil.  However, after shooting the factory 165 Winchesters I might play with different loads after I use up my 180's.

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  • 1 year later...

Thirteen pages to find this thread!  I recently bought a THE Accessories Extended Guiderod for the G34 and some ISMI Springs.  The first thing I noticed it that the balance was appreciably more muzzle-heavy.  Then when I got to the range, I spent the first three or four magazines chasing my front sight ---- It dipped way low when coming down from recoil.  By the end of a couple hundred rounds, I was a happy camper --- the gun seems to shoot much flatter.  I might have to order another for the G21.

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