FWSixgunner Posted September 4, 2022 Share Posted September 4, 2022 What’s the best extended firing pin for a Smith & Wesson? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted September 4, 2022 Share Posted September 4, 2022 (edited) For competition I've had best results with the C&S (Cylinder & Slide) Extended FP and an Apex Competition FP Spring (you may have to call them as I don't think they list them seperately), it does make a difference when you're using the lightest possible action. Apex seems the toughest FP's, and they used to warranty them if they broke (and yes I did break one several years ago). C&S seem the weakest as I've broken several over the last 15 years. Haven't used the Powers FP's enough to verify their longevity. But whatever you buy, get a pack of several, just to be safe. I keep spares in my Range Bag. I've used them all Ron Power, Apex, Factory, C&S and probably some others I'm forgetting. I've never had great results with the pointy tipped FP's and factory springs are stronger than the C&S & Ron Powers but Apex makes the lightest weight FP Spring I can find. A buddy told me he would cut down FP Springs, never tried that though. Edited September 4, 2022 by pskys2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe4d Posted September 4, 2022 Share Posted September 4, 2022 Think I have a C&S laying around waiting to install. Kinda gives me pause. C&S used to make soem after market Hipower stuff,,, and yep used to break alot also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted September 5, 2022 Share Posted September 5, 2022 18 hours ago, Joe4d said: Think I have a C&S laying around waiting to install. Kinda gives me pause. C&S used to make soem after market Hipower stuff,,, and yep used to break alot also. I've broken them all, comes from incessant dry firing. Even the empties I use will do it after a few hundred snaps, the spent primers only give protection for a few snaps. Another trick is to load some dummy rounds and use Silicone Sealant in the primer hole. It does seem to have helped. I've not broken one in several years though, mainly because I don't dry fire as much. FWIW I've even had a couple of FP Springs become so brittle they've broken in two. Knock on wood, will probably have one break this afternoon! On my current main match gun I have had the same C&S FP & Apex FP Spring for about 2 years and well over 10,000 rounds (cam't say for sure but I do know I've been through more than 5 flats of fed primers in that time). This winter I plan on changing them out with new ones, then I keep the older ones in my range bag for spares. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted September 5, 2022 Share Posted September 5, 2022 I like the Ron Power ones, just personal preference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted September 5, 2022 Share Posted September 5, 2022 The extended firing pins all suck. A competition gun should not have a part installed that is known to break suddenly. If it happens during a match, you're screwed. Find a factory Ti pin (won't stick to a magnet) with the rounded (not pointy) tip, ideally one that measures as close as possible to .495" and look for action improvements elsewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEH Posted September 5, 2022 Share Posted September 5, 2022 12 minutes ago, Carmoney said: The extended firing pins all suck. A competition gun should not have a part installed that is known to break suddenly. If it happens during a match, you're screwed. Find a factory Ti pin (won't stick to a magnet) with the rounded (not pointy) tip, ideally one that measures as close as possible to .495" and look for action improvements elsewhere. I just found one in my parts box that measured .505 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testosterone Posted September 5, 2022 Share Posted September 5, 2022 23 hours ago, Joe4d said: Think I have a C&S laying around waiting to install. Kinda gives me pause. C&S used to make soem after market Hipower stuff,,, and yep used to break alot also. The only pin I have ever broken or seen break is a c&s, 2 of them, both standing in my dining room dry firing. The do work great for very light actions, but if you dry fire(which I used to extensively), especially even a little on an empty cylinder(i almost never did), just expect it to break. I have never broken an apex pin, of which the one I like best it the pointy one which I don't see them selling anymore, I dry fired A LOT just keep working. I know the pointy is unpopular, but i find them to work excellent. TK makes one now, I bought a 929 from eli (which is a fantastic gun) that has one in it, I couldn't say anything about durability but I have i turned back to 4.5 lbs and its 100% on federal primers over a few thousand rounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted September 5, 2022 Share Posted September 5, 2022 2 hours ago, Carmoney said: The extended firing pins all suck. A competition gun should not have a part installed that is known to break suddenly. If it happens during a match, you're screwed. Find a factory Ti pin (won't stick to a magnet) with the rounded (not pointy) tip, ideally one that measures as close as possible to .495" and look for action improvements elsewhere. Mike I broke one of those too, me thinks it's more of an operator problem with dummies like me unable to refrain from dry firing on an empty cylinder. Though I have become less impulsive as I get older. I "usually" at least put some empties in before I start snapping now. Though IF I could find some of the Factory I'd use them. Even 1911's break! I never could get myself to replace recoil springs every 3,000 rounds! And have broken several 1911 FP's back in the days before I found the "round religion". I even went so far as to cut leather pads to replace the FP/Spring/Stop so I could dry fire and stop the madness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted September 6, 2022 Share Posted September 6, 2022 Dave, I will agree that anything can break, but I have handled a lot of S&W revolvers over the years, and I have never--never once--seen a factory Ti pin break. You should be able to dry-fire a centerfire S&W revolver pretty much indefinitely and not ever break a firing pin. I never use snap caps or empties or anything like that. I have broken pretty much every aftermarket "extended" firing pin I have tried, but I have never broken a factory pin. If you had one of those break, I believe that was an extraordinarily rare anomaly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe4d Posted September 6, 2022 Share Posted September 6, 2022 11 hours ago, Carmoney said: Dave, I will agree that anything can break, but I have handled a lot of S&W revolvers over the years, and I have never--never once--seen a factory Ti pin break. You should be able to dry-fire a centerfire S&W revolver pretty much indefinitely and not ever break a firing pin. I never use snap caps or empties or anything like that. I have broken pretty much every aftermarket "extended" firing pin I have tried, but I have never broken a factory pin. If you had one of those break, I believe that was an extraordinarily rare anomaly. well then , looks like I will be leaving mine alone. Stock 686 Pro series. 5".. Have never opened sideplate, Has lit off everything but an occasional remington.. I have a 386 3" carry gun I bought used no idea if it is stock or not but has a lighter trigger,,, and really I dont like it. Probably a transition thing if both matched... Still want a 4" 22LR though.. Havent run across one yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted September 6, 2022 Share Posted September 6, 2022 13 minutes ago, Joe4d said: well then , looks like I will be leaving mine alone. Stock 686 Pro series. 5".. Have never opened sideplate, Has lit off everything but an occasional remington.. I have a 386 3" carry gun I bought used no idea if it is stock or not but has a lighter trigger,,, and really I dont like it. Probably a transition thing if both matched... Still want a 4" 22LR though.. Havent run across one yet. Get a 4 inch 617. I've been seeing a lot of them on-line lately for around 800. Check RimfireCentral.com classified. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted September 6, 2022 Share Posted September 6, 2022 12 hours ago, Carmoney said: Dave, I will agree that anything can break, but I have handled a lot of S&W revolvers over the years, and I have never--never once--seen a factory Ti pin break. You should be able to dry-fire a centerfire S&W revolver pretty much indefinitely and not ever break a firing pin. I never use snap caps or empties or anything like that. I have broken pretty much every aftermarket "extended" firing pin I have tried, but I have never broken a factory pin. If you had one of those break, I believe that was an extraordinarily rare anomaly. Agreed I do have a tendency to be rough on my equipment. Heck I even "Practice" cause I enjoy it! And yes I am a rare anomaly in many different ways, talk about strange try being a Union Officer as a staunch conservative Republican. That leads to many strange moments! As I just never seem to be able to give when I think I'm right. I hate to say this, I know I'll jinx myself, but I haven't had a FP break in many a year. And come to think of it never on the 627's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe4d Posted September 6, 2022 Share Posted September 6, 2022 6 hours ago, AzShooter said: Get a 4 inch 617. I've been seeing a lot of them on-line lately for around 800. Check RimfireCentral.com classified. have seen zero local or a dealer that will order, Have bought sold twice online,, got ripped off both times,, have zero interest in it.. if local dealer wont order,, I dont get Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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