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Weird trigger job on 2011


balmo

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Bought a used STI Tactical DS as a backup to my Edge in Ltd.

 

I immediately added an EGW ignition kit, Cheely grip w/ Cheely short flat trigger, and Wilson Combat ambi. Tuned the trigger to my preferred 2.5# trigger pull.

 

Doing some dry fire, trigger feels great, almost like my main Limited gun, Edge. When I tried it in one stage in a club match, it took me a while to fire my first shot in a point blank target, hmm okay.

 

Today, I brought it to a static range so I can figure out what height front fiber sight I need to get. I am not on a clock so I took my time to take my shot to get accurate results for my front sight selection. Again, my first shot I dip my gun so bad I feel like a newbie. Then after the first shot everything feels normal.

 

As I collect more data for my front sight, I saw a pattern that I always dip my gun at the first shot, then it goes away thereafter. I then investigate this; loading just 2 rounds in the mag. Sure enough the first shot is heaver than the second, that is why I always dip my gun on the first round.

 

Its almost akin to a DA/SA gun really. If I have to quantify it, I would say the first shot is about 4# then the rest is what I measured 2.5#

 

But when I function check in dryfire its all 2.5#. This is only happening with live ammo, at the first shot. I've done a couple of 2011/1911 ignitions already, this is the first time I've experienced this. What gives?

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15 minutes ago, raz-0 said:

The first shot is presumably racked by hand? Is the disconnector winding up in the right spot only when actually fired? 

Yes, hand racked. 

 

Now that you mentioned, it was weird that I had to shave a little bit out of the EGW disconnector head to fit into the hole into the frame. I have never done that in past ignition upgrades. My STI Tac is 2013 vintage, maybe different size dico hole back then?

 

Im quite unsure, but what happens when the disconnector isnt fully back where it suppose to be? Could this be the curprit? I did shave the head of the disco, but maube it wasnt enough?

Edited by balmo
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EGW parts almost always need fitting.  The hammer and sear in the ignition kit- not so much.  The ball head disco in particular always needs to have the diameter of the ball head reduced, assuming the pistol is in spec.  The top of the angle that contacts the slide usually needs tweaking for natural slide movement.  Generally it is too long.

 

BTW, when you rack by hand the proper procedure is to pull the slide all the way back so hard your hand slips off the slide.  That replicates the slide action when a round is fired. 

Edited by zzt
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Try holding the trigger down when you load so disco pressure is the same as follow-up shots. In the old days when I shot, some old timers would do that.  Worth a try to isolate your problem.  Sounds scary but unless you have .06 splits, your trigger is down every shot thereafter.

 

Edited by jklp
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1 hour ago, jklp said:

Try holding the trigger down when you load so disco pressure is the same as follow-up shots. In the old days when I shot, some old timers would do that.  Worth a try to isolate your problem.  Sounds scary but unless you have .06 splits, your trigger is down every shot thereafter.

 

I find it hard to believe that when you do a split of 0.06 and you have less than 2 pounds of trigger pull w.  the  leaf spring  enough to respond and not fire an automatic.

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I think the point is nobody does .06 splits as that's around the cycle time of a 1911.  So, more than 99% of the time your finger is still on the trigger when the slide cycles.

 

I have on occasion made the hammer follow, but that rarely fires a second shot.

 

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Finally figured it out.

 

I adjusted the trigger overtravel to my liking. When I hand rack a round the overtravel setting is in too much. I just backed out a little bit and now its all gravy.

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