DownUnder Posted October 29, 2021 Share Posted October 29, 2021 (edited) The main problem in blue tip breakage on the 1050 seems to be when a primer that is not seated flush in the primer slide hole is drawn back onto the blue tip, resulting in crushing and damage. This can happen if there is no case in the shell plate above the primer station and the unused primer does not return flush into the slide hole (due to dirt or some other reason), or when a primer has been crushed during seating into a case (probably because of a crimped or damaged primer pocket) and the damaged primer sticks partially out of the slide hole. There is a very simple fix that has worked 100% for me and I have not replaced a blue tip since installing the fix several years ago. I created a plastic shield that sits close around the blue tip, but not tight. When a primer that is not seated flush in the slide hole is drawn back toward the blue tip it hits the front of the shield. This can re-seat a good primer that is sitting slightly high, or swipe a damaged primer out of the hole, or create a soft jam that the user can feel. There may be a slight risk of detonation if a lot of force is exerted on a jammed primer, but the primer will be well away from the primer column and any force on the plastic will be much less than force between two pieces of metal jamming together on a primer, as can happen if a user has a metal tip on the primer tube instead of the blue plastic tip. Offered for information only. I take no responsibility if you decide to use this idea at your own risk. Edited October 29, 2021 by DownUnder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHI Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 After installing these brass tips I have not replaced a tip in over 35k rounds on my 1050. https://www.photoescapeinc.com/products/replacement-brass-ends.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nc1911 Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 47 minutes ago, AHI said: After installing these brass tips I have not replaced a tip in over 35k rounds on my 1050. Same here on the 750, best upgrade to the machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weeniewawa Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 2 hours ago, AHI said: After installing these brass tips I have not replaced a tip in over 35k rounds on my 1050. https://www.photoescapeinc.com/products/replacement-brass-ends.html these will fit the 1050? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 2 hours ago, AHI said: After installing these brass tips I have not replaced a tip in over 35k rounds on my 1050. https://www.photoescapeinc.com/products/replacement-brass-ends.html @AHI Going to try the brass ends on my RL1100. Do you still leave the magazine shield cap slightly snug? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHI Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 Found out about these on Bullseye L . They fit the 1050. I was probably the first to try them on a 1050. All the current Dillon primer magazine tubes are the same. You do still tighten the cap the same. It is actuary not as critical to leave it a little loose as with the blue tips. Read the directions about installing the tip . On the small primer tube I did have to "glue" the new tip using red Lock Tight. I waited till I had loaded with this for a while before recommending this. It has fixed my last issue with priming on the1050. Have a set to install on my 550 but have not tried it yet. Could just move the tube from press to press. May try that next time I load .223. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_boone Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 2 hours ago, weeniewawa said: these will fit the 1050? I just emailed and asked the same question the answer I received is below... Yes. I replaced all plastic ends with my own brass ends, and using tubes with brass ends on my XL750 and both RL and Super 1050s. Ends were iriginally sized for 750. So on 1050 you might need to run ends over 200 grit sandpaper. That depends on your particular press’ dimensions. Coincidently, I just received review submitted by fellow reloader who uses 1050. It will be posted on website soon. Be safe, AP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 3 hours ago, AHI said: Found out about these on Bullseye L . They fit the 1050. I was probably the first to try them on a 1050. All the current Dillon primer magazine tubes are the same. You do still tighten the cap the same. It is actuary not as critical to leave it a little loose as with the blue tips. Read the directions about installing the tip . On the small primer tube I did have to "glue" the new tip using red Lock Tight. I waited till I had loaded with this for a while before recommending this. It has fixed my last issue with priming on the1050. Have a set to install on my 550 but have not tried it yet. Could just move the tube from press to press. May try that next time I load .223. I just read the post on Bullseye L. Very enlightening! Placed my order for both ends. I appreciate the insight for mounting. Have all flavors of Loctite! Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHI Posted October 30, 2021 Share Posted October 30, 2021 2 hours ago, dr_boone said: Coincidently, I just received review submitted by fellow reloader who uses 1050. It will be posted on website soon That is my review. I am not very good at them. Was actually asked to review some time ago. This discussion reminded me to fallow through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 3 hours ago, AHI said: That is my review. I am not very good at them. Was actually asked to review some time ago. This discussion reminded me to fallow through. Be sure and link us to your review! I for one would definitely like to read it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DownUnder Posted October 31, 2021 Author Share Posted October 31, 2021 The brass tip is a hard metal surface that can crush a returning primer against the hard metal slide, directly under the column of primers. Just saying. I'm pretty sure that is why Dillon uses the soft blue tip on the 1050/1100, whereas the other presses have a different priming action. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
36873687 Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 Brass tip for me also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHI Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 (edited) 7 hours ago, DownUnder said: The brass tip is a hard metal surface that can crush a returning primer against the hard metal slide, directly under the column of primers. Just saying. I'm pretty sure that is why Dillon uses the soft blue tip on the 1050/1100, whereas the other presses have a different priming action. first Dillon has used a brass tip in the past. It was still being used on the 650. second if you have a problem with this Don't use it. last I have been using this for over a year with out any issues. Three other people I know are using these for over six mounts with no issues. between the four of us that's over 100k rounds loaded. With no issues. Brass is a soft metal. Edited October 31, 2021 by AHI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerTrace Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 I use a brass time primer tube from a 650. Works perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastglass1985 Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 I've been using the brass tipped tubes out of my 650 for 2 years now with zero issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DownUnder Posted November 1, 2021 Author Share Posted November 1, 2021 (edited) On the 650 a primer is never moved back under the column of primers. If you want to use a brass tip on a 650 there is little risk of a primer being crushed. I'm not sure how the 650 is relevant to this topic, it does not use a reciprocating primer slide. On the 1050 a jammed primer can be dragged back under the column of primers and crushed between two hard surfaces if a brass tip is being used. Not a frequent event, but possible, which is likely the reason why Dillon does not supply a metal tip for the 1050. The plastic tip works, but is fragile. Put a soft guard in front of the plastic tip and it lasts forever. If anyone wants to recommend using a brass tip in the 1050 that is not the purpose of my post and I strongly discourage the idea. Anyway, make your own choices about brass tips, I'm happy with a softer option. Edited November 1, 2021 by DownUnder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 18 minutes ago, DownUnder said: On the 650 a primer is never moved back under the column of primers. If you want to use a brass tip on a 650 there is little risk of a primer being crushed. I'm not sure how the 650 is relevant to this topic, it does not use a reciprocating primer slide. On the 1050 a jammed primer can be dragged back under the column of primers and crushed between two hard surfaces if a brass tip is being used. Not a frequent event, but possible, which is likely the reason why Dillon does not supply a metal tip for the 1050. The plastic tip works, but is fragile. Put a soft guard in front of the plastic tip and it lasts forever. If anyone wants to recommend using a brass tip in the 1050 that is not the purpose of my post and I strongly discourage the idea. Anyway, make your own choices about brass tips, I'm happy with a softer option. @DownUnder Having moved from many years of operating the XL650 platform to an RL1100, I can totally relate to how the 650's rotating primer disk is very unlikely to drag a primer back under the "column of primers" as you note. You state above: Quote a jammed primer can be dragged back under the column of primers and crushed between two hard surfaces if a brass tip is being used. Now I'm wondering if there would be a safe way to take say, a spent primer, and demonstrate exactly how this can happen? Having owned/operated an RL1100 for just under 2 years, I have experienced upside down, crushed, and side-ways installed primers! But I have never had one drug back under the remaining column of primers! And I can assure you I respect the fact that I need to keep the priming system on my press clean and well maintained as a top priority! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 (edited) FWIW: I did notice a post on the 1050/1100/2000 Facebook page where a user was having this issue with his RL1100 press dragging primers back into the plastic tip: Edited November 1, 2021 by HOGRIDER sp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHI Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 Again If you have a problem using this Don't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHAVEGAS Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 16 hours ago, HOGRIDER said: You state above: Now I'm wondering if there would be a safe way to take say, a spent primer, and demonstrate exactly how this can happen? Having owned/operated an RL1100 for just under 2 years, I have experienced upside down, crushed, and side-ways installed primers! But I have never had one drug back under the remaining column of primers! And I can assure you I respect the fact that I need to keep the priming system on my press clean and well maintained as a top priority! What used to happen on my 1050. 1. Primer hangs onto depriming pin and pulls back into brass. 2. Primer is mashed by swagger , moron doesn't stop because he feels something wrong. 3. New primer gets mashed and pulled back into priming station, blue thingy gets mangled. For what it is worth I have had one primer detonate in the press, made my right ear ring and startled me but that was it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 (edited) 23 minutes ago, IHAVEGAS said: What used to happen on my 1050. 1. Primer hangs onto depriming pin and pulls back into brass. 2. Primer is mashed by swagger , moron doesn't stop because he feels something wrong. 3. New primer gets mashed and pulled back into priming station, blue thingy gets mangled. For what it is worth I have had one primer detonate in the press, made my right ear ring and startled me but that was it. deleted....... Edited November 1, 2021 by HOGRIDER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 I just looked at the primer slide pic in the Manual..............."now" I'm thinking the mangled/damaged primer is being pulled back cause it's still/stuck in the primer hole of the slide. Duh........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHAVEGAS Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 3 minutes ago, HOGRIDER said: I just looked at the primer slide pic in the Manual..............."now" I'm thinking the mangled/damaged primer is being pulled back cause it's still/stuck in the primer hole of the slide. Duh........ I think you are most likely correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHAVEGAS Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 (edited) 17 hours ago, AHI said: Again If you have a problem using this Don't. Personally I appreciate both suggestions for a fix on this thread, thanks to all. Edited November 1, 2021 by IHAVEGAS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 1 minute ago, IHAVEGAS said: I think you are most likely correct. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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