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Nighthawk DTS trigger anyone?


vgdvc

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I don't own one, but I've tried one.  It works and feels nice.  But it's expensive, and the pull weight is too heavy for a competition gun (at least for the vast majority of shooters).  A decent gunsmith can produce a nicer, lighter trigger with conventional parts at less cost.  So, it's a cool idea, but I'm not sure there's much of a market for it.

Edited by ltdmstr
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IMHO I think it's an expensive gimmick for guys who've heard tall tales or read too much forum-nonsense about bad 1911 trigger jobs lol. Most any drop-in kit will do if your 1911 came with not so great fire control parts stock.

 

None of the operation is that tricky and most people should become familiar with the 1911's parts anyways if they're really going to run one. Installing a good hammer, sear, disconnector, and playing with the sear spring is usually all it takes, with the hardest part being tearing down/reassembling the gun a bunch of times while "tuning" the sear spring being the hardest part. Most of even the middle of the road parts out there are so good now that there's not much stoning/polishing that has to be done most of the time.

Just don't stone anything until you've truly figured out what you're up to; if you decide to wade into that water, and start stoning things before you really have your head wrapped around what you're doing, the water can get deep pretty quick lol.

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I own a few and like them.  It's a relatively cost effective way to have the exact same trigger pull in multiple guns.  

 

IMO, the weight can be taken down to competition level.  You just have to know what to do to get there. 

 

It's not for everyone but was simple to do and didn't require constant tweaking or disassembly & reassembly to get where I wanted it to be.

 

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1 hour ago, gnhowell1 said:

I own a few and like them.  It's a relatively cost effective way to have the exact same trigger pull in multiple guns.  

 

IMO, the weight can be taken down to competition level.  You just have to know what to do to get there. 

 

It's not for everyone but was simple to do and didn't require constant tweaking or disassembly & reassembly to get where I wanted it to be.

 

Thanks for the input. How light of a trigger break can you get with let's say a 17 lb mainspring? Also how would you describe the breakpoint? Crisp?,a little roll, etc. And have you found the units to be consistent compared to each other?

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43 minutes ago, vgdvc said:

Thanks for the input. How light of a trigger break can you get with let's say a 17 lb mainspring? Also how would you describe the breakpoint? Crisp?,a little roll, etc. And have you found the units to be consistent compared to each other?

In order to get below about 2.75, you need to lighten the trigger return spring. I put a small screwdriver under the legs of the double torsion spring and bend them a little. 2.25 is pretty doable with a 17lb mainspring. The word of caution here is that it is easy to over bend these legs. If that happens, you have to take it out completely to straighten them back out.

 

The right amount of crispiness is my assessment.

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8 minutes ago, gnhowell1 said:

In order to get below about 2.75, you need to lighten the trigger return spring. I put a small screwdriver under the legs of the double torsion spring and bend them a little. 2.25 is pretty doable with a 17lb mainspring. The word of caution here is that it is easy to over bend these legs. If that happens, you have to take it out completely to straighten them back out.

 

The right amount of crispiness is my assessment.

Nice,thanks

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2 hours ago, FALAR said:

Wow, that is a lot of money to only get a 3.5 to 3.75lb trigger in a 1911.

 

Yeah, that's a lot of cheddar for what I'd consider just an okish trigger, one can get better than that with almost any decent stock parts just by tuning the sear spring and maybe swapping to a 17lb mainspring... Just need some time to take the gun apart a few times and do the right checks, nothing to buy really.

 

A ~2lb trigger is pretty easy by tuning the sear spring with any quality tool steel fire control, no sanding/stoning needed if the hammer-hooks and sear nose fit ok.

 

Atlas and a few others have some good videos out there that go over 1911 safety checks that can be helpful if one doesn't already know them.

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  • 2 years later...

Sorry to revive a dead topic, but I just installed one of these in my Springfield Prodigy. Its a drop-in install and my trigger pull is well under 3lbs (in the 2.5 to 2.75 lb range) Thats with an 17lb mainspring. I put about 500 rounds down range since the install with no issues. I would never go as far as to say its better or even equal to a custom trigger job but it wa exactly what I was looking for so I'm happy with it. If I ever get really serious about competitive shooting I'd get a custom job. For  that matter I'd probably get a Staccato. If I win the lottery I might spring for an Atlas.

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