Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About gnhowell1

  • Rank
    Finally read the FAQs

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Raleigh, NC
  • Real Name
    Garrett Howell

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. So, I saw a video a while back for the Nighthawk drop in modular trigger unit. I gotta say, it's a pretty slick concept and it turns out that the guy who came up with the idea is local to me and shoots some of the same matches I do. I bought one prior to this COVID mess, however, I haven't had a chance to mess with it until recently. I decided to stick it in a .45 ACP single stack that a local guy put together from Fusion parts several years ago. It wasn't a great trigger, so I installed the Nighthawk parts, which was way easier than expected. I had to do very minor fitting of the thumb safety, but nothing else. The trigger was crisp and better than what I started with but definitely heavier than I was looking for (3.75#). After about 200 rounds, it seemed to drop by an ounce or two, but was still heavier than I wanted. Likely great for a carry gun but I'm to lighter triggers. Normally, I would start bending on the legs of the sear spring but the Nighthawk supplied leaf spring only has one leg on it, and it only controls the grip safety. Looking at the unit, there was a big gob of red tamper paint covering what looked to be the end of a set screw. That had to be pushing on the back of a spring that put pressure on the sear. Since pretty much everything to do with guns has to be messed with a bit, I got out a can of acetone and a q-tip to see if the paint would come off. The paint came off, and there was a set screw underneath. I put an allen wrench in it, but no love, it wouldn't budge. I assumed that Nighthawk had probably Loc-tited the screw in place, so naturally I baked it for 30 minutes at 300 degrees. After it cooled off, the screw moved. I stuck it back in the gun and checked the pull weight after backing out the set screw a bit. Sure enough, the pull weight had dropped to just about 3#. I backed the screw out a bit more, but the pull weight seemed to bottom out around 2.75-3#. After a bit of fishing around in my parts box, I found a bag with an #18 hammer spring. After I replaced whatever heavy-ass spring that was in the mainspring housing with the 18, the pull weight was somewhere in between 2.5# and 2.75#. It felt good and seemed to work pretty well at that weight. After a range trip since I messed with it, I like what I ended up with even if it did take a bit of messing around. I like the idea of being able to put this in other guns that I have and get a consistent trigger between the guns. It also seems to be pretty much fully adjustable now. I also like that since it is all housed in one unit, the placement of the hammer and sear pin holes in a bad frame probably won't affect it as much as traditional parts. It is definitely more expensive than just buying a set of parts, but it does avoid sending your gun out to a gunsmith. I think it is a pretty good option for someone who doesn't want to take the time to learn how to mess with traditional 1911 parts.
  2. The one I posted pics of is a 512C. I'll post a pic of the side shortly so you can see the model # on it. The 512C is the aluminum model, the 512T is the titanium model. Not much difference otherwise.
  3. It's my understanding your exact scenario formulated the 512 and the 509.
  4. Coupled with the 509, it may be the perfect short distance carbine optics combo.
  5. My apologies for the poor quality phone pics. Trust me when I say it's clearer than the 510 because it's sealed and purged. 3 reticle choices; 65 MOA Circle, 65 MOA Circle + 2 MOA dot, 2 MOA dot.
  6. PM me an email address and I'll send you a pic of a prototype that I'll be shooting at the Noveske carbine match next week.
  7. If you like that style, wait a few months for the 512c (aluminum) or 512t (titanium). They're sick!
  8. If you haven't taken the battery out, wiped down the inside, then put it back in, try that. Worked for one of mine which was an early version.
  9. Wave spring is the way to go. Shortens the stroke while also reducing the recoil impulse then getting the weight back moving forward as quickly as possible.
  10. Jason Edwards is the only person I know running one on his PCC. Shot with him at 3GN Nationals and shot the gun some following the match. Definitely lightens up the front end. He seemed to be very pleased with it and had no issues with the 4" plates at 100 yards.
  11. Having both a tricked out MPX and a JP, I'd have to recommend the JP if you don't always shoot the exact same ammo. The MPX is more finicky feeding different profile bullets of differing lengths, however, it does have a more manageable recoil impulse. You can really tame the recoil of the JP by going to a cut down 223 recoil spring, all the tungsten weights and stacking 2 wave springs within the SCS. Both are viable options and have won major matches. I'm personally of the opinion that the factory guns are a better/more reliable option than building your own. While shooting PCC at numerous major 3 gun matches over the last 2 years, I have seen very few home builds make it thru a major without serious issues. The factory guns with maybe a different trigger or handguard seem to perform far better.
  12. Best recoil impulse, most trackable reduced dot movement from all the combinations we tried. The blitzkrieg hydraulic buffer with a 308 carbine spring, a spacer and a wave spring was the only other combination we felt was as good or better. No doubt Max did his homework.
  • Create New...