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Dies for my new Dillon XL750?


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12 hours ago, RGA said:

Lee dies are fine. Did you get the Lee 3 or 4 dies set? The 4 die set includeds their factory crimp die (which I think is excellent).

 

My 9mm set up (Dillon 650) is very similair to Michael303's listed a few posts above.

 

Lee U (undersize) sizer

Lyman M die for expanding

Powder

Redding competition seater

Lee factory crimp die.

 

For 45ACP I run the same setup with the exception that I use a Dillon sizer.

 

 

 

 

 

RGA - Here is what I ended up getting (it also helped after I viewed a few of the Dillon YouTube videos on the 750.  Good stuff!)

 

9mm

* Dillon 9mm caliber conversion kit

* Lee Sizing/Decap die

* Lee Powder thru Expanding die (found out I don't need this because it is already included in the Dillon caliber conversion kit)

* Redding Competition Seating Die

* Lee Taper Crimp Die

 

I bought them all separately, no kit, because I wanted to use the suggested Redding Comp Seating die I had read about here.  I'll probably return the Powder thru Expanding die since I now know I don't need it.

 

.380ACP

* Dillon .380ACP caliber conversion kit

* Dillon extra toolhead

* Redding 3 piece Premium Carbide die set (Sizing, expander and Premium seating die with micrometer)

 

I have a feeling I won't need the Redding expander die for .380ACP since I bought the caliber conversion kit.  I will just use Dillon's expander instead.

 

I also ordered the Dillon wrench kit to mount on the machine, the Dillon primer flip tray and the Lyman 50th edition reloading manual.

 

I also forgot to mention, that I did get the Dillon powder check unit when I bought my 750.  I figured that would be the smart thing to do, even though it doesn't take the place of your eyes and brain to make sure you only do one charge per case.  

 

Oh and I also bought a Lyman case gauges for 9mm & .380ACP.  The Hundo gauge seemed super expensive at $100 for the 100 round aluminum plate.  Maybe if I end up doing a lot of reloading I will reconsider.  But for now, I'll at least have some sort of gauge for the rounds.

 

Also bought a KMS2 UFO reloading press light kit too.  I had one on my Hornady LNL press and it was outstanding, so I bought it again for the Dillon 750.

 

Only thing I need to get now are bullets, primers, cases and some powder to get things setup and running.

 

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8 hours ago, OleGreyGhost said:

@R1_Demon,

 

I am also using Lee dies in my .38 cal setup .  For bullet seating I modded the press to accept the Lee bullet feeder kit & then Lee FCD.

 

Now changing over to .223 cal.  So I have to remove the bullet feeder kit.  Will be using the Redding micrometer seating die in its place.  Manually inserting bullets.

 

For your first project, why don't you change the press over to 9 mm, so you can get familiar with the press....

 

 

 

Ole Grey - That's what I'm planning on doing.  :)  I'm going to setup the press for 9mm instead of the .45ACP it is coming with.  Good practice on setup.  However, I have to get the supplies first and also get some fired brass to do the press setup.  :) 

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9 hours ago, belus said:

This is a good attitude to take as you learn to reload as well. The press is already efficient and that's fast so you don't have to be.

You can find people racing to pull the handle in many videos. This is always after unshown and thorough overview that everything is working as expected, and the pace is rarely sustained beyond the 15-20s that those videos ever show.

Makes sense.  I'm not in any rush to push out thousands or even hundreds of rounds in a few hours.  When I start this, I'm going one piece of brass at a time through the entire cycle to ensure everything looks right and I'm doing things right.  Maybe after a couple of hundred like that and I feel comfortable that everything is rolling like it should, will I then start to use the full progressive part by having a shell in every spot on the shell plate.  Again, I'm in no rush and there is no need for me to make a mistake due to rushing for no reason.  :) 

Edited by R1_Demon
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Thank you and I will if I can ever find small pistol primers. There are none anywhere unless I want to pay triple price on Gunbroker for them. 😞

 

That and I’m trying to decide what powder to go with. I’m considering CFE Pistol for the 9mm and .380ACP. I just want a general good powder for my first loads since they won’t be for competition. Just to make sure the gun cycles and all is good. 
 

Originally I went with N320 when I was loading .40 S&W on my last press but I was making them for competition. That was the good powder 3-4 years ago for .40. I will have to look in the 9mm forum to see what the good powder is for 9mm. Might still be N320. 🙂 

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4 hours ago, R1_Demon said:

if I can ever find small pistol primers.

Best suggestion is to call around to all your LGS for the primers & powder.  Hazmat fees are too expensive for small quantity orders placed online.  Plus the owner can answer a lot of your questions.

 

For a powder, you would want one that would take up more than half the available casing space, as this would eliminate the possibility of a double charge.

 

I am not familiar with CFE, perhaps someone else can chime in on this....

 

 

 

 

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N320 is an excellent powder but if you want a little more velocity and a powder that fills the case more you can consider N340.

 

N340 is my favorite powder for 9mm (115/124/140 grain jacketed and plated bullets mostly) but I also use N320 for lighter bullseye loads. It's also my go to powder for .45ACP.

 

I have to add though that the choice in powder vendors and types is much more limited here in the EU than it is in the US and Vithavuori is easy to find. The other brand that is used a lot over here is Lovex (Accurate Arms). We can find some US powders here and there but usually they're expensive.

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OGG. Oh believe me, I’ve called every LGS in a 100 mile radius. Every time I ask for small pistol primers, they literally laugh and tell me they have none and haven’t had any in a while now. 😞  

 

But they do have powder for the most part so I’ll probably go get that. I have brass and bullets coming. Just can’t get the primers to start reloading. Again, unless I want to pay triple price for them in Gunbroker. (About $200+ plus shipping for 2000 primers was the avg)

 

Good tip on the fluffy powder. Works for me. On the Dillon videos they used CFE Pistol and it looked to fill the case pretty well. That’s why I considered it. 🙂

 

I don’t want to use Titegroup because I know it can be touchy within a few grains. I also don’t think N320 is very “fluffy” so that wouldn’t help either, but easier to manage and more forgiving than Titegroup from what I remember reading. 

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RGA - Thanks for the tip. I’ve heard N320 is pretty favorable for .40 for competition. That’s why I got it before. More expensive than most (about $35.00 USD per pound), but you can get it in some shops here. I think most use it for 9mm major too. 
 

But, since I just want something to make “regular” rounds, the N340 would probably work fine for my needs. I’m ultimately looking to reload 9mm, .380ACP and .45ACP, so if there is one powder I can use for all three, that would be awesome. Then I can try and buy an 8# jug and be good for a while. 🙂

 

Thanks for the info!

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1 minute ago, Youngeyes said:

N-320 will work well for all 3. My other go to powder is Winchester 231. Both meter well in the Dillon and shoot cleanly. 

 

Youngeyes - Thanks for the suggestion as well.  I'll look into N320 then.  I thought they no longer made Winchester 231?  Or was there an old version of it that they didn't make? I thought I read this like 3 years ago on here, but I might be wrong...I probably am.  LOL

 

Thanks for the suggestion.  Gives me an option if the shop doesn't have N320.  :)  Again, thank you!

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Thank you to everyone that has posted here to help me.  I went to the reloading shop and they had Winchester 231 in stock (and HP-38, but no N320).  So, at this point I have the following:

 

9mm

* 1,000 pcs of new brass (Everglades)

* 1,000 124g FMJ RN bullets (Everglades)

 

.380 Auto

* 500 pcs of once fired brass (locally purchased)

* 500 pcs of 100g plated RN bullets (coming - Everglades)

 

1 pound of W231 (locally purchased)

 

So, the only thing I have left to acquire to get started are the stupid small pistol primers that you can't find anywhere in stock.  LOL!  So, depending on how excited I am to start reloading, I'll either have to wait until they finally get some in stock somewhere or pay the 3x pricing off Gunbroker.  😛 

 

The good thing is, with the empty brass casings, I should be able to setup the 750 press per the Dillon video on YouTube.  I know they mention having brass in the dies when tightening them down to make them centered.  :) 

 

Another question...if you have brand new brass, do you still run it through the resizing/decaping die in station #1?  Or do you skip that step since it is new?  Wait...disregard...I just thought of it...I have to prime the case, so it has to be run through station #1.  Ok, forget I asked that.  LOL!!!

 

Now I have to look into equipment to clean the .380 Auto once-fired brass I just bought.

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4 hours ago, Youngeyes said:


I appreciate the tip on the powder and cleaning. 
 

I have a rotary tumbler coming, so I was going to use that with the steel pin media. I’m hoping that will work fine. 🙂 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I load the following handgun cartridges.

 

45 ACP

45 Colt

10 MM

44 Mag

38 Special

357 Mag

327 Federal Mag

9mm 

 

I have a 650 toolhead setup for each.  They all have Dillon dies on them, except the 327, Dillon doesn't make dies for that.  I also have everything needed for 38 Super, again, everything is Dillon.  I just need a 38 Super handgun.

 

I tried RCBS, Lee, and Hornady dies.  IMHO nothing works quite as well as Dillon dies.  9mm was giving me fits, till I bought my first set of Dillon dies.  That lead to switching everything else possible to Dillon.

 

Even my 223 and 300 Blackout have Dillon dies on them.

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  • 1 year later...
On 9/7/2020 at 10:31 PM, RGA said:

Lee dies are fine. Did you get the Lee 3 or 4 dies set? The 4 die set includeds their factory crimp die (which I think is excellent).

 

My 9mm set up (Dillon 650) is very similair to Michael303's listed a few posts above.

 

Lee U (undersize) sizer

Lyman M die for expanding

Powder

Redding competition seater

Lee factory crimp die.

 

For 45ACP I run the same setup with the exception that I use a Dillon sizer.

 

 

 

 


How do you get the powder to drop from Station 3?  I want to use an M die as well on my 750.

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