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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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Everything posted by ML123

  1. I kind of stepped away from shooting and reloading for the last few months mostly due to shortages and my local 3 gun series being canceled this year. I have been working on other projects while I decide what I want to do with shooting this year. It has been awhile since I was in my LGS and for some stupid reason had an itch to buy a new gun so I went yesterday. My LGS was pretty well stocked with ammo on the shelves, and a full selection of primers and powder in on the shelves but the prices are insane. $10-11/100 primers. You can now buy 500 pistol and 500 rifle at a time but damn $110 for 1k primers! Back in February they were $5-6/100 and you could only buy 100 at a time. I was stocking up by going everyday along with my wife, neighbors, friends etc. When they went to $8/100 I stopped now they are $11 and it doesn't look like people in my area are rushing in to buy them and they had everything on the shelf small, large magnum BR etc. I was able to get 2# of H335 for $70 and they are still rationing at 2# per day. Oh yeah finally picked up a new carry gun, P365 tacpac which was on sale to scratch that gun buying itch lol! Still no shotgun shells WTF on shotgun shells!?!?
  2. Thanks I called CH4D and they are on backorder for a YEAR!! Anyone use the Lyman Pro 223 trim die? https://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman-pro-trim-dies
  3. Any updates? I ordered a RT1500 and trim Die 12-05-20 told 8 weeks BO on trim die. At 12 weeks was told 14 weeks, at 15 weeks now told 24 weeks, I'm done with them.
  4. I stumbled across this primer test comparing CCI SPP, SRP, SPM primers and I thought would interest some here I also went and checked out their site and read about the company history, pretty cool. Their competition 147g ammo looks like a nice option for those that dont reload. They are also running a BYOP which is another interesting option for those that don't reload. If you can find 1000 primers you can get 1000rds of ammo for $200 plus the cost of the primers which isnt a bad deal in todays times for ammo. Of course you need to send them primers lol. FYI the 9mm 115g +P SCHP is in stock, I picked up some to test.
  5. Thanks for doing this, can you post a link to your spreadsheet again. I am working on a new load and would like to reference you data. Thanks
  6. I just started reloading last October and working on a load for my CZ S2. I am loading 147g BBI coated bullets 1.08 OAL with 3.2g or titegroup which seems like a common recipe on here. I have loaded about 3k rounds so far and ran about half of them through my S2 and a SP-01 S1. They all fired well and seem pretty easy to shoot compared to the factory ammo I have used in the past. I finally got a chronograph and tested a few of the rounds and found my PF to be a little high and would like to lower it some but have a few questions on what the best approach would be. I started with 3.2g of Titegroup which is the lowest charge for a 147g bullet according to Hogodon loading data which used a 1.10 OAL and listed a velocity of 855. I chrono'ed the rounds with 5 shots 3x, avg 935 940 and 950 all SD of 5 giving a 941 avg and a PF of 138.33. I then dropped the charge to 3.0g and re-tested 910 avg/133 PF, but the SD was higher with one group up to 11. I read that too little powder can increase SD? So if dropping the charge to 2.8 will this increase SD even more and should I even be concerned about it? OR should I consider a lighter bullet say 135g or 124g RN with more of a powder charge and will also be able to run a longer OAL? I am also concerned about the temperature and the temp when I shot these two tests at 38 and 40 degrees. I read that TG is very temperature sensitive and velocity/PF will go up considerably when it gets warmer. If that is the case I may be at 140+PF with only 3g of powder and a 1.08 OAL? Does this sound right? I know a lot of guys run this combo on here maybe I am doing something wrong? I am using a Pro Chrono DLX and I did test it against some factory 124g Winchester white box which was 1180 f/sec which is what it is rated at so I think the measurements were correct.
  7. What he said^^^ I too have a SP-01 Accushadow with a full CZC trigger job I had built for CO. I also have a box stock Shadow 2 I use for 3 gun. While the trigger on the SP-01 is amazing the factory S2 is still really nice. I am planning to do the upgrades 2morechains listed above this winter to my S2.
  8. I read somewhere the chambers on Gen 5 glocks are tighter than prior gens so make sure you plunk test whatever round you plan to load. I know the chamber on my Gen 5 G19 loads about the same length as my CZ S2 with a 147g BBI at 1.08 and the chamber on my Gen 3 G17 will fit that same round out to 1.012.
  9. I am trying to sort this mess out now with a 750XL and a Lee APP. If a 1100 is in you budget that is the way I would go for sure and would have probably gotten one if I understood the process better when I was shopping. I have the RCBS small base sizing die and like it a lot I sized 500 cases and every single one gauged correctly. Don't try it without case lube and One Shot is NOT case lube, I tried it despite reading about it and first case I tired got stuck. I then made my own with lanolin and 99% alcohol and ran 500 without one stuck case. Without supporting the shell plate like the 1100 does I dont see how swaging will work well on the 750. I have a Swage it and it does work just not that well. The Lee APP does work and I processed a bunch of brass entirely on that press decap, swage, sized and trimmed. The case collator and really the whole press is kind of flimsy but it does actually work and can be pretty fast and TBH I am actually amazed how well it does work. The swaging on the APP was about the same for me as the swage it was on the 750, it works but left some of the pockets very tight. I am going to try it again and see if I can't adjust it get a better swage. I do have a BA go no go gauge too. Trimming on the APP was not really great idea and I ordered a RT1500 I am going to set up on a second toolhead but still waiting on a 223 trim die. For now I am planning to decap and swage once on the APP, case lube and load in 750, size with RBCS die, swage a second time and trim with RT1500. Swap to loading toolhead with Lyman M die, dillon powder funnel, Lee seating and crimp dies then run them through vibratory dry media to remove lube. That is three step process with the 750 and only two step process on the 1100 since the swage actually works.
  10. The Beretta 1301 Comp Pro is a buy once cry once deal and really shouldn't be compared to the rest but that looks like a REALLY nice shotgun! If you are considering that level of a gun I would probably put the Benelli M2 on your list to at least take a look at. I think the recoil management on the 1301 is something to consider. Also consider you will still need some mods like an extended mag tube and possibly some work to further open up the loading port. At that point something like the $1895 Benelli from Hawkeye Ordnance would be a better deal IMO. That being said, I just got started in 3 Gun in 2020 and went out and bought the MK3 Freedom and have been very happy with it. I shot it out of the box for two matches last year. It cycles low power estate or any other std target load shot. I still have issues with the Fiocchi slugs though but plan to get a replacement spring from MOA this winter. I spent some time recently shooting clays with it and just cut the stock down to shorten LOP and it now really fits me really well. It does hit somewhat hard about as hard as my Browning Citori but not near as hard as on old Winchester 1400 gas gun which is what I have to compare with. The recoil mgt stock on the Beretta looks like something I would be interested. On you list the MK3 is the only one you can buy and take straight to a match which IMO is a great place to start especially at the price point. I know a lot of people use the JM Pro without issue but I have heard of a lot of people having issues. I think the fact that it is a gas driven gun is enough for me to consider the Stoeger over it.
  11. Well considering I only got started reloading during this entire mess, and obviously did not stock up beforehand, I am making due even with the inflated prices. I got another 1400rds loaded this week with my wife and I plucking 100 SPP at a time from my LGS. unfortunately that well finally ran dry this weekend. It couldn't have come at a better time as I was down to 300rds. Considering I had to buy mixed brass and all my components since October I am still only around .20 a round to reload: .035 per case, .073 BBI bullets, .08 primer, .01 TG powder. With the cheapest 9mm factory ammo being .60/round these days I saved $560 loading 1400rds at today's prices. With the $400 I saved loading the previous 1000rds my Dillon 750 is already paid for!
  12. It's still WAY better than $250/1k on GB!! I'm not bitching and unfortunately I believe it will be the new normal for awhile at least, especially after yesterday. I just wish I could by 10k and be done for awhile. I only started reloading in October so I am new to this. If we ever get to the point that you can buy in bulk online again I will for sure keep a good stock on hand. So they had 2 full racks like that when I took that pic they are down to just one shelf and most of the SPP are gone with just a few Federal SP magnums left. I have been going everyday and sending my wife too plus a few friends have stopped for me. The truck comes in today and they will restock before opening tomorrow so fingers crossed they have a nice new wonderful stock to pick away at all week. Not a bad business strategy either I seem to keep finding some other stupid s#!t to buy everytime I'm in there too lol!
  13. So they did let me buy 100 SPP and 100 SRP and I will be back tomorrow lol. Slow process but I did get enough this week to load some 9mm this week which I really needed. I keep thinking they will be gone the next time I am there but they loaded up a third shelf full of them.
  14. I am not having much luck with swaging on the APP. I have run a few hundred cases through and I can get all the primer pockets to gauge with a BA tool but some of them are still tight and difficult to prime when you go to reload. The press is flimsy and the lower spring loaded swage part fills up with brass shavings and start to stick leaving tight pockets and having to stop take it apart and clean it. I am thinking of using the Swage kit upper die with anvil from Lee in the toolhead to support the shell plate and trying a swageit underneath on my 750xl. Anyone have any thoughts on doing this? It would seem in the die would be pushing on the brass to swage it and not pushing up against the shell plate. At that point would just be holding the brass in place like it was designed to do and you can adjust the die for the amount of pressure you need to swage a case properly. Or am I just not using the APP correctly? Here is a pick of a few of primers I am having trouble seating correctly
  15. Looks good and if I decide to keep using the APP it will be my next mod
  16. I have both the APP and a swage it and neither are working all that great. I am in the process of setting up a new toolhead for the 750 to process rifle brass with using a RT1500. I wanted to use the Swageit and avoid using the APP all together. I have tried both and using either of them is still leaving very tight primer pockets that are difficult to primer leaving a little half moon on the edge as a result. I am gauging all my primer pockets with a BA go no go gauge too and they pass. I am thinking of setting up the 750 with the Lee Swage it decapping die on station #1 and then in #2 using the Lee Swage die with the anvil in the toolhead to support the brass and shell plate and have the Swageit mounted below? My only concern would be to much pressure and over swaging the brass but I would think you could adjust the top die to correct that? The bottom piece on the Lee APP swage kit has a spring in it to prevent over pressure but with the swageit on the Dillon it would be a solid mount. The top die from Lee is adjustable for the amount of pressure you can place on the brass. Just looking for feedback from more experienced reloaders before I try this and screw something up.
  17. I thought about that today but I am good on SRP right now and don't want to be greedy. I have more SRP primers than brass and bullets right now and plenty of loaded rifle ammo to wait this out a little longer.
  18. This is today at my LGS! This is a restock too they started putting them out last week. They have everything on that shelf SPP LPP SRP LRP BR-41 Fed and CCI!! There was another shelf full of CCI No 500 SPP too! Still only 100/day but hey they at least have them. I have my wife neighbors and friends all stopping lol!
  19. CO is carry optics a class for guns with dot optics and hi cap mags. Loading data https://www.vihtavuori.com/reloading-data/handgun-reloading/?cartridge=89 Better yet this site is a great resource IMO http://www.natoreloading.com/9mm/
  20. Lol I think it is easing. A LGS to me has SPP IN STOCK, only catch is they will only sell 100 at a time!!! Seriously they had at least 20k of Federal No 100 and CCI N0 500 sitting on the shelf and I left with 100. I did go back and will be back though lol!! Another LGS to me has had SRP in stock for $80/1k and I may start using some of them for SPP soon. I think it is going to ease up. A lot of vendors now have 9mm in stock but everywhere I see it it is 60-65 cents a round which is nuts IMO. $33 for 50rds of 115g Blazer brass wtf! It wont be long before that starts coming down and we maybe start seeing primers again. I dont think we will see bricks of 1k for $30 anymore though.
  21. I shortened my Stoeger MK3 stock and now have a gap between the recoil pad and stock. It is only cosmetic but would like to get a spacer or a recoil pad that fits flush and wanted to see if anyone has done this and maybe has a part # to share. The stock is pretty easy to shorten and has the mounting lugs molded all the way down the stock. The stock recoil pad is recessed and once you cut it you would have to cut the mounting lugs lower to get it to mount flush. See pic. BTW worked great sight comes right up and in line with my eye. Going to shoot some clays tomorrow.
  22. Im a new shooter too and having the same issues except with a CZ so maybe I should try a Beretta lol! Anyway, I did find a drill quite useful for this. Load rack a round and drop the mag. Fire the round and then dry fire the second round and you will see the flinch. Keep doing it till it goes away. It worked pretty well for I am still dealing with the issue but if I do this at the beginning of a training session I will not flinch as much. Here is the youtube video I found
  23. I wouldn't spend a lot of money on one I will probably just get a Lee if I get rid of the APP which works fine as a single press . IMO It is nice to have to do small stuff or small quantity stuff you want to try with out having to swap over or set up a progressive press.
  24. I just got started this last fall after deciding to get into 3 gun in March and really had no experience or anyone to mentor me. My plan is to load 9mm and 223 so I purchased a Dillon 750 and a Lee APP to process brass. I am still learning and relatively new to this but here is some of my experience. 1. This board and its members have been invaluable in learning. There are many here quick to share experience and knowledge that have made the journey a lot less painful. For 9mm there are many many good threads and info on this site for getting set up and load recipes and info on components. 2. If I were loading only 9mm pistol personally I would not buy a Dillon 1100. I really don't see the point if only loading 9mm and the cost difference is fairly large and I would use that extra $$ for other tools you may need or want that make the process easier. ddc already commented just buy a second toolhead and die setup for the 750. If you wanted to load high volume 223 rifle rounds I wouldn't hesitate to go with the 1100 as it seems like it would be much faster for rifle with the swage and extra stations. 3. Auto-indexing press. I know a lot of people on here love their 550 but as a new reloader I would not buy a 550 with a manual index. The risk of a double charge on a 550 seems like a much more real possibility that it does on a 750. I know its not impossible to double charge on a 750 but IMO there is less of a chance with a shell plate that auto advances everytime you pull the handle. If you want to learn all the steps in the process first just get a single stage press to learn on which can also be useful for other small tasks later. 4. Die selection. I would spend extra time here figuring out which dies to use how they actually work along with the differences in the brands and types. This was not that easy this year since finding anything specific you wanted has been difficult to say the least. I purchased Lee die sets and have been selectively replacing/upgrading dies ever since. For me on 9mm I have a Lee sizing/de-priming die which seems adequate. I upgraded to the MBF Powder funnel which is a popular upgrade for the Dillon Powder measure. I switch to the Dillon seating die since it is JUST a seating die but adjusting seating depth is a PIA so I just purchased a 3rd seating die which is a Redding Mic die. A Lee Factory crimp die is different than a standard crimp die and does not work as well with bullets with a larger diameter than .355 which are most coated 9mm bullets. I managed to get the Lee FCD die set up correctly to work with .356 bullets but again would have been easier to just get a standard crimp die to begin with. 5. Sort your brass by headstamp before setting up your press for the first time. It may not be necessary to sort brass after you get it set up and running the way you want but for figuring things out initially it will make things easier especially if you are even slightly OCD. Sorting out your press set up and dies will be easier since there are variations in brass with different manufacturers. IMO Blazer and FC are the easiest to load and get running consistently. 6. Consider a single stage press as a second press for smaller tasks and testing things. Sorting out how to load and process rifle brass is a bit more of a process. I bought the Lee APP for processing rifle brass which worked but I am going to set up the 750 for this process instead of continuing to re-invent the wheel with the APP. I wish I would have purchased just a single stage press instead of the APP to do various tasks on. 7. While I was able to de-prime, swage, trim and size my rifle brass all on the Lee APP it is going to be MUCH less of a project on the 750 with a second toolhead set up with the Dillon case trimmer, RCBS small base sizing die and a swage it set up in the primer spot. I am in the process of getting this set up now. 8. Take your time don't be in a hurry to buy stuff or getting your press set up correctly, especially in today's times. You can find most everything you will need or want with a little searching and patience. Don't pay ridiculous prices for stuff on ebay or GB just because something is on back order. A lot of manufacturers and retailers will sell stuff on BO and it will eventually show up. I have found everything I have needed both in equipment and components since I started in buying stuff in October. Yes even primers, small pistol is very difficult but I am still today finding small rifle and large pistol primers in stock at various LGS. FYI Midway just had Federal SPP in stock for a very very brief time just yesterday. I am still a newb myself and still learning by reading a lot online and practicing so take my advice for what it is worth. For me the whole process has been enjoyable and had brought my interest in shooting to a whole new level.
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