Do you need to roll size for a wheel gun?

[mchapman]

On 8/19/2020 at 9:07 AM, MikeyScuba said:

Out of curiosity why did you quit the FCD?

I used it mainly when I was loading for my bottom feeders, to help everything chamber. I have tried to focus on my wheelguns for the last 6 or 7 years and liked the roll crimp to aid in faster reloads, more consistent SD, and no bullet creep or jump and found that my bottom feeders would run and cycle them just as well with a roll crimp

[RangerMcFadden]

On 8/19/2020 at 2:36 PM, PatJones said:

You need to flare case mouth a bit more with lead bullets, coated or uncoated.
 

I’ve gone from full on “you’re gonna split your brass” blunderbuss to no bell at all and every quarter turn of the die in between. Same difference.

 

I don’t think my Dillon dies/funnel are up to the task of loading 358 bullets.
 

Thankfully, with covid and living in an arctic state, I’ll have plenty of time to throw money at this problem until it goes away before next season.

[IHAVEGAS]

While we are on the subject : https://uniquetek.com/product/T1736

 

Edit: Anyone know of a gadget that makes powder die height adjustment not a pain in the ass on a 1050? Want to be able to switch back and forth between loading 0.356 for my bottom feeders and 0.358 for my "9mm" 929. 

Edited August 21, 2020 by IHAVEGAS

[hmg1]

Edit: Anyone know of a gadget that makes powder die height adjustment not a pain in the ass on a 1050? Want to be able to switch back and forth between loading 0.356 for my bottom feeders and 0.358 for my "9mm" 929. 

 

I have 2 powder dies with Hornady Sure-LOC Lock Rings on them.  Just swap them out.    Guess you could get a 2nd powder funnel and cut it down for the .356"

[PatJones]

While we are on the subject : https://uniquetek.com/product/T1736
 
Edit: Anyone know of a gadget that makes powder die height adjustment not a pain in the ass on a 1050? Want to be able to switch back and forth between loading 0.356 for my bottom feeders and 0.358 for my "9mm" 929. 

When I was loading both 38 and 357 I bought a second set of dies and another tool head. It was worth the money the first time I used it.

--
Pat Jones
Firestone CO
USPSA #A79592

[Lesliet]

  I know it's an old post, but on the topic of shaving lead, my fix has been to run a Redding flare die that properly sizes the inside of the neck, and makes a good profile of bell, and a separate seating die ( no crimp)  and then crimp it on a separate die. Never could get the combination seating/crimping dies to not shave, since they all start crimping AS the bullet is being seated. Even backing off the crimp part of one of those was ineffective.  Bonus side effect, my rounds gauge at a much better rate, now. 

[RangerMcFadden]

7 hours ago, Lesliet said:

  I know it's an old post, but on the topic of shaving lead...

We have topics that are ten years old get dragged up so two months is nothing.

 

This might work for me but I’m on a 550 so unless I combined seat and crimp I’m SOL. 
 

I got one of the uniquetek funnels that was recommended. Didn’t do dip. 

[Lesliet]

Thanks!   I run a LnL progressive, so only 5 stations.  ( Does have a casefeeder) Works out ok, though, as I process brass in one run, with Hornady one-shot lube to make it run smooth, then wash, prime on a Lee bench primer to get em seated nice and deep, and then there are enough stations to load with separate seating and crimp dies,and a lockout die to catch squibs.  It's a bit more work, but I'm happy with the finished product, and the brass always looks new. Everyone has their own details... *grin*  I hope you figure out something that works for you!