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1050 gets "soft" at top of upstroke


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Noticed lately on my 1050 during the upstroke, the last 1/2" or so I get the soft feeling, almost feels like seating a primer on a 550, for comparison.  At first I assumed it was b/c I hadn't taken it down and done a good cleaning on it, so I recently swapped over from 9mm to 10mm and did a comprehensive clean/lube job as part of the swap, but I still have the issue.  Did a search but not really finding anything, so my search skills are lacking, or maybe I'm not using the right keywords...

 

I've adjusted the indexer, which isn't the issue but it's one of the first things I look at when I have stroke/index issues. I've got a few upgrades in place - notably Level 10 center cap retainer (removed and re-installed), toolhead spring/bushing kit, index spring kit, and index roller, but all have been in place for some time and this upstroke issue is fairly recent.  I'm also running a shellplate bearing but am considering removing it to see if any change.


Although most of my loading is manual, I do have a PW drive that I use when processing brass (hence some of the upgrades), but I haven't run it in some time actually.

 

Anyway just looking for ideas...

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Watch the crank shaft and arm at the top of the stroke.  Are you getting play here?  IOW, the crank shaft is moving but the arm is not?  Could be the key or keyway is worn. I have replaced my key and blue loctited the crank shaft and key to eliminate this play in mine. 

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11 hours ago, GregJ said:

Watch the crank shaft and arm at the top of the stroke.  Are you getting play here?  IOW, the crank shaft is moving but the arm is not?  Could be the key or keyway is worn. I have replaced my key and blue loctited the crank shaft and key to eliminate this play in mine. 

 

So yeah it appears the crank stops but the arm keeps on moving the last 1/2" or so, on upstroke and downstroke.  So I guess I need to look into this keyway?  We are talking about the circled section on this schematic?  Never taken one down this far before though ;).  Will have to look for a youtube vid or some instructions online...

 

11-6-2019-5-23-18-PM.png

Edited by 78Staff
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12 hours ago, 78Staff said:

We are talking about the circled section on this schematic? 

 

Correct. Not that big an issue to take apart. Probably a good time for a deep clean anyway.  Suggest you go ahead and order a couple of keys from Dillon.  I suspect the crank shaft (11061) and the arm (11062) are fine.  Clean and re-grease the bearings (11008), all 3.  You can put red loctite on the new key and set it into the keyway on the shaft, let it sit over night, then put blue loctite (243) on the top of the key and the keyway on the arm (11062).  Just be careful to clean  up any excess and not let it get into the bearing.  And obviously clean the metal surfaces before applying the loctite. 

 

My 1050 is automated (Ammo Bot), and the above has been working very well since I did it last winter.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

On 11/7/2019 at 6:17 AM, GregJ said:

 

Correct. Not that big an issue to take apart. Probably a good time for a deep clean anyway.  Suggest you go ahead and order a couple of keys from Dillon.  I suspect the crank shaft (11061) and the arm (11062) are fine.  Clean and re-grease the bearings (11008), all 3.  You can put red loctite on the new key and set it into the keyway on the shaft, let it sit over night, then put blue loctite (243) on the top of the key and the keyway on the arm (11062).  Just be careful to clean  up any excess and not let it get into the bearing.  And obviously clean the metal surfaces before applying the loctite. 

 

My 1050 is automated (Ammo Bot), and the above has been working very well since I did it last winter.  

 

Well the keys came in (I ordered 3, just to have a few onhand - hate ordering just one of anything).  In fact the Dillon rep was like why do you need 3 lol.  Plus I added a few other small/spare parts.

 

Anyway, made some progress, got the bottom end torn down, but looks the like key is still in good shape - still has a squared off cross-section and no real wear or rounded off corners like I was expecting to see  :(.   In fact, it's cross section is .248 x .250, while the replacement is .248 x .248 - so the original has one section a hair wider.  I may just put it back in and make sure the wider side is engaged.  I'm going to double check the other two new ones first though.

 

Still, good to get it torn down and do a complete clean and re-lube I reckon.  I also figured I would replace the index pawl while I was at it, and that pin came out fairly easy - two firm hits is all it took.  I was expecting more work so of course the spring went flying as I wasn't ready for it... took me a few min to find it lol.

 

Anyway, going to get the key set in loctite as you mentioned, get everything else cleaned up and then and then work on getting it all back together.  I didn't detect any other slop in the lower end hopefully resetting the key will help some.

 

zrNt0hVl.jpg

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On 11/16/2019 at 11:13 AM, 78Staff said:

I may just put it back in and make sure the wider side is engaged. 

 

Cool.  Strongly suggest putting new key in.  They are cheap, and you already have it on hand, no sense in not using it.

 

RE the pawl, there are hardened pawls out there that last longer than the Dillon pawl.  Good luck!

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Got the lower end back together... new key definitely makes a difference.  Only issue is re-installing the index pawl arm spring, every time I get it almost tightened down the damn spring pops off the top pin grrr...  Just an awkward job being on the backside and also my PW being partly in the way.  After the 5th or 6th try I took it as a sign to order the L10 index spring upgrade kit lol.

 

screenshot-49.png

Edited by 78Staff
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I installed one of these for pretty much that purpose alone, not sure of needing it for any other reason than the convenience of the maintenance of the machine but it does work very well.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/6/2019 at 5:19 PM, 78Staff said:

So yeah it appears the crank stops but the arm keeps on moving the last 1/2" or so, on upstroke and downstroke.  So I guess I need to look into this keyway?  We are talking about the circled section on this schematic?  Never taken one down this far before though ;).  Will have to look for a youtube vid or some instructions online...

 

Did you ever find a good video for taking the lower part of the 1050 apart?  I've got a little over 65,000 rounds loaded on my main 1050 and have greased it using the zirc fitting, but have never taken the bottom apart and cleaned or repacked the bearings...  Wondering if I need to?

 

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21 minutes ago, RaylanGivens said:

 

Did you ever find a good video for taking the lower part of the 1050 apart?  I've got a little over 65,000 rounds loaded on my main 1050 and have greased it using the zirc fitting, but have never taken the bottom apart and cleaned or repacked the bearings...  Wondering if I need to?

 

 

No I never found a vid, but it was pretty strait forward - I just used the schematic of the press as a guide to see how the pieces should come apart.  Pulled it all apart, replaced the key, re-lubed, etc where applicable and put it all back.   

 

http://dillonprecision.com/docs/super_1050_lower_machine_assembly.pdf

 

There's nothing really to trip you up, other than getting the crankshaft out - since it's keyed it doesn't slide out, so I took a soft punch and 4oz ball hammer and tapped it out, taking care to not hit or nick up the bearings coming out or going back in. 

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