new Stock II parts and other questions

[Yondering]

Hi guys, I've been lurking the forum for a while and reading a bunch, but just picked up a Stock II in 9mm and wanted to ask a few questions I haven't seen directly answered elsewhere. (Feel free to call me a noob if I've missed previous discussions, but any links or advice to help out are welcome.) Just some background on me - I've slicked up a handful of CZ and Tanfo triggers over the years, but it's been long enough that I'm pretty out of the loop now; prior experience was with standard 10mm and 45 Witness, CZ PCR, and the P-07. I have a decent machine shop at home and a bit of experience slicking up guns and making parts, but am new to the Tanfo competition guns and am here to learn.

 

First question, before I start buying parts I may or may not need - Is my new Stock II hammer (see pic below) the "Delta" hammer I've seen reference to here, or is the Delta an aftermarket or Xtreme part? If it's different than my Stock II, do I want one, and if so what are the differences? Do any of the replacement hammer options reduce creep in the SA pull, or do you guys accomplish that by stoning the hammer hooks?

 

Second question is about trigger reset - I'll be going through this gun to polish everything and replace springs, but what specifically should be done to reduce reset? My pistol right out of the box has a pretty long and vague reset (frankly the whole trigger action is pretty poor, but I was expecting that). 

 

I'll have a ton more questions, but will start with that for now. I've been watching Memphis Mechanic's videos and various suggestions on the forum for parts and springs as I'm figuring out what to order for starters. Thanks for any input you guys have.

 

My Stock II hammer:

 

Edited May 21, 2019 by Yondering

[johnbu]

Standard "heart shaped hammer".

 

I prefer the Titan hammer over the Delta. The bolo from patriot defense with their springs, 1 piece sear (xtreme or unica) and polishing will give you a much better trigger.

 

Follow MemphisMechanic on youtube. He has a 4 part series showing what to do.

[Yondering]

Thanks johnbu. I’ve been watching Memphis’s videos, good stuff there.

 

What does the BOLO disconnector do specifically? I.e. what changes in the trigger pull when it’s installed?

 

also can you tell me if there’s any particular modification or aftermarket part that shortens the reset, or is it a culmination of all the trigger improvements that does it?

[MemphisMechanic]

The bolo deletes all pretravel when combined with a titan hammer and extended firing pin block.

 

The trigger resets and stops right there. The titan hammer has shortened hooks, so greatly reduced creep:

 

 

[Yondering]

Thanks MM, that helps! That's definitely what I'm looking for, I think you've convinced me to spend more $$. 

 

If I think about going a different direction and converting to SA only - can these guns be made to have a 1911-ish trigger with almost no creep and reset? What parts are needed to convert to SAO other than the trigger, are the hammer and sear different?

[billthemarine2862]

You can convert it to SAO by either removing the disco and replacing the trigger with a SAO trigger, or by using a BOLO and a SAO trigger. If using a BOLO remember to remove the pre and over travel screws from your trigger.  Also, expect to do some fitting of the BOLO if you do not upgrade the hammer and sear.

 

You can also just run it locked and cocked and use the safety and run it limited minor without doing anything else (technically not SAO but, you are still bypassing the DA).

Either way it will never be exactly the same as a high end 1911 trigger.

 

By upgrading the hammer to a Titan or Unica you can have an amazing trigger but, there will always be a small amount of over travel and pre-travel.  To get the shortest amount of pre-travel possible I feel a BOLO should be used. Upgrading the hammer and changing the springs are a must if you want anything close to a 1911 style trigger action.

 

My SAO tanfo breaks like glass with a 1.75 pound trigger but there is some pre and over travel, especially when compared to a 1911 trigger.  (I actually have more pre-travel than necessary but, that is by design)

 

Remember you are using a hinged trigger here, and a very different hammer and sear configuration compared to a 1911.  Personally I like to have some pre-travel in my trigger.  With a sub 2 pound trigger, under match conditions that little bit of pre travel really helps keeping you from having an early lunch at the local Dairy Queen.  

Edited May 22, 2019 by billthemarine2862

[johnbu]

^^^ what he said. 

If you really want SAO, the "best" setup that can be had is to get the Evolution Gun Works sear and hammer with trigger of choice. 2 flat ones from Henning, mostly flat xtreme and standard SAO. Bolo is not an option with them.

 

But, the EGW sear has no provision for the FP block and requires fitting.  no where near drop in. Just so you know.  but you can (have to actually) adjust the pretravel amount by the sear to trigger bar leg.   it and the hammer are thru hard.

[Yondering]

Thanks guys, lots of good info there and I really appreciate the input. That helps a lot in understanding what my options are. 

[goshimu]

Does the bolo work well with the Xtreme delta hammer. Or should I buy a titan or unica?

 

I have the delta in my Xtreme at present.

[johnbu]

It should work just as well

 

 but! The amount of fitting may be more.  (I'm not sure, delta is not one ive fit)

[Yagi]

23 hours ago, goshimu said:

Does the bolo work well with the Xtreme delta hammer. Or should I buy a titan or unica?

 

I have the delta in my Xtreme at present.

No matter which hammer. you still have to fit the Bolo to it.

I fitted quite a bit of titan and delta hammer.

[Yondering]

1 hour ago, Yagi said:

No matter which hammer. you still have to fit the Bolo to it.

I fitted quite a bit of titan and delta hammer.

 

Can any of you guys tell me - dimensionally what is different between the Bolo and the factory disconnector, other than the pin itself? Is the vertical leg longer, more material in the inner curve, etc? 

[Yondering]

On 5/22/2019 at 3:50 PM, goshimu said:

 Or should I buy a titan or unica?

 

 

I wondered the same, especially since they appear to be about the same price. Is the difference just hammer mass, or does one result in more trigger creep than the other, or anything like that?

[MemphisMechanic]

2 hours ago, Yagi said:

No matter which hammer. you still have to fit the Bolo to it.

I fitted quite a bit of titan and delta hammer.

 

 Tolerances on these guns are too loose to make it a 100% drop in proposition in all guns, but the Titan hammer and BOLO drop into *most* tanfos together without any fitting.

 

They did in mine.

[johnbu]

5 hours ago, Yondering said:

 

Can any of you guys tell me - dimensionally what is different between the Bolo and the factory disconnector, other than the pin itself? Is the vertical leg longer, more material in the inner curve, etc? 

 

The bolo is very "fat" compared to the factory disconnector, about 2x on the inner curve. 

[Yondering]

Thanks john