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Getting ready to be a proud parent of a new 1050 this week


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how are you guys mounting the 1050. My reloading room with have 2 inch thick butcher block counter tops. Are y’all using plates on top and under counter top or just bolting to the counter. I was thinking of putting a metal plate under the counter and then screwing the press down. Or is a top pate needed also. 

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Yeah the Dillon one is definitely cheaply made. Super thin nylon, and I pretty much paid extra to have the Dillon branding stitched into it. I could see it being big enough to cover a mr. bulletfeeder though, I have plenty of loose space with just my press and case feeder.

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2 hours ago, Dirtchevy841 said:

how are you guys mounting the 1050. My reloading room with have 2 inch thick butcher block counter tops. Are y’all using plates on top and under counter top or just bolting to the counter. I was thinking of putting a metal plate under the counter and then screwing the press down. Or is a top pate needed also. 

I bolted mine down to my bench no plates

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On 12/24/2018 at 5:49 PM, tacomandood said:

Yeah, as I mentioned before, the bearing upgrades aren't absolutely necessary but a nice thing to have. A similar upgrade to the precision powder adjustment where it's nice to have and makes a slight difference, but for only $25 I figured it was worth it. If you ever decide to upgrade to an autodrive most people say its almost completely necessary, so at least you've invested in the upgrade now rather than later. 

 

I don't know if its my getting better with the press or the upgrades along with it, but I easily loaded 900 rounds in just under an hour (58 minutes) the other day. I'd attribute the smooth and consistent function to the upgrades and it was definitely nice not having to stop every ~100 rounds to brush off powder around the shellplate. The lighting kit I absolutely recommend installing as soon as possible. It's helped me catch messed up cases, different caliber cases, and janky bullet seats before it jams up the press a few times now. Of course, that's easier to add when you take it apart for cleaning, so whichever you end up doing first works lol. Let us know what you think after you've had a good run with those installed. 👍

Can you put the lighting kit on without taking toolhead off press. Looks like it just clips on. No adhesive strips I see 

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Can you put the lighting kit on without taking toolhead off press. Looks like it just clips on. No adhesive strips I see 


You’ll probably need to install the low-profile lock ring and screws or the silicon board for the light kit will bump into the standard screws. Either way, you’d have to take it off since there’s no way to get the light around the center rod that it’s attached to.
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43 minutes ago, tacomandood said:

 


You’ll probably need to install the low-profile lock ring and screws or the silicon board for the light kit will bump into the standard screws. Either way, you’d have to take it off since there’s no way to get the light around the center rod that it’s attached to.

 

Low profile lock ring you mean the low profile screws that go on the white plastic pieces 

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So I was reading owners manual to get to know the beast and I read that you can adjust the belling with the powder measure still on. I saw the die is black is it any different then my 650 powered die silver. Looks the same just black. And I assume you just loosen but and adjust just like 650 but measure stays on. That’s nice. 

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loosen screws that hold powder mesure to die loosen lock down nut then turn die ( just like sdb 550 650) in or down 

for more  out or up for less then tighten lock nut and screws .

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34 minutes ago, AHI said:

loosen screws that hold powder mesure to die loosen lock down nut then turn die ( just like sdb 550 650) in or down 

for more  out or up for less then tighten lock nut and screws .

Ok so the same. I though after reading the dillon manual that it worked differently. So nothing different just color. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
2 hours ago, tacomandood said:

Probably so they wear out over time and you have to buy new ones to replace them lol. I haven’t had issues with about 6000 loaded in mine, but I also have like 12 different tubes so thats not many through each.

Not the pickup tubes the actual tube in the primer system in the 650 had a gold either metal or aluminum tip that fed the primers into the primer wheel. On the 1050 when you take the tube out of the black tube it has a blue plastic tip. Wondering why it’s plastic 

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my 25 year old 550 has a blue plastic tip. my 30ish SD has a plastic tip.

my one year old 1050 has a blue plastic tip. so how old is your 650?

could it be some aftermarket up grade you forgot you installed?

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1 hour ago, AHI said:

my 25 year old 550 has a blue plastic tip. my 30ish SD has a plastic tip.

my one year old 1050 has a blue plastic tip. so how old is your 650?

could it be some aftermarket up grade you forgot you installed?

Nope. Came from Dillon. Had a gold tip either metal or aluminum. And your right my sons sdb has the blue tip. No clue maybe something they were working on and left it on the tube. I have no clue. But I know it wasn’t blue plastic.  

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I did a little research the 650 mag tube is one peace the tip is not replaceable.

has something to do with the rotary primer system .the 650 has to "dump" the 

primer the other presses if you dont use it it will just cycle back .i have replaced 

the tip one time on my 550.(in 25 years)

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25 minutes ago, AHI said:

I did a little research the 650 mag tube is one peace the tip is not replaceable.

has something to do with the rotary primer system .the 650 has to "dump" the 

primer the other presses if you dont use it it will just cycle back .i have replaced 

the tip one time on my 550.(in 25 years)

That’s do it. Mystery solved. Knew I wasn’t crazy 

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  • 2 months later...
On 12/30/2018 at 2:44 PM, Dirtchevy841 said:

Anybody using the Everglades ammo primer hold down die. Thought a member said they were. If so how did you set it. Looks simple just run screw down till it touches inside of case. 

I just got my everglades hold down die in the mail today and installed it immediately on my 1050.  I was amazed at the difference.  Before I installed it, my primers were seated flush, now they are well below flush.  You can feel the inside edge of the primer pocket when you rub your finger across the case bottom.  I didn't realize how much the 9mm brass moved in the shell plate.  However, now I guess I need to adjust my primer seater, because they are so deeply seated that the primers are slightly crushed.  LOL  I just got my 1050 and am learning a lot.

 

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