75B - 8.5# Hammer Spring

[Fo0]

Will an 8.5# Hammer Spring work in a CZ 75B - Even if I was limited to Federal Primers only

 

what Extended Firing Pin and Reduced Power Spring is recommended for 8.5# spring - CGW or CZC

 

I think the CGW is a little longer at 2.490"

and the CZC is 2.475"

 

Thank You

[GeneBray]

Works most of the time with CCI primers in my SP01. Maybe 1 or 2 light strikes per 500. Too many for major matches. Practice and local match’s it’s fine. Tells real quick if I’m doing something wrong. Always fire next pull. Don’t recall whether CGWs or CZC long firing pin. Whichever use their FP spring too.

Will test soon with Win. & Fed. primers. Finally seeing some Fed. SP primers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[George16]

Get the CGW extended firing pin and reduced power firing pin spring.

 

I’m currently using an 11.5# hammer spring from CGW and I don’t have any light strike problems using CCI primers or factory ammo.

Edited November 12, 2018 by George16

[mrpredictable]

Used a 8.5# in my SP01 shadow for a while. Should work in your 75b with an extended firing pin, and a reduced power firing pin spring. Mine was 100% with federal primers and ~98% with CCI. 

 

I switched back to a 11.5# for consistency and a less squishy feel. 

[philippshen]

just use 11.5#, shoots CCI all day long, there's not much advantage when using 8.5#

[soulbyte]

 

I currently running a 10lb from CZC that has been 100% reliable with CCI primers. Only concern is with such a light hammer spring do any of you worry about causing damage to the gun? I'm running 124grn minor factor rounds and it feels a little harsh. My 1911 runs a 15lb main for the same ammo.

 

[GeneBray]

@ soulbyte.  No with the 8.5lb spring.  Broke more slide stops with heavier MS from stock to 11 lb.

 

Trigger changes based on main spring weight.  The 8 and 11 lb springs were new CGW springs.  Believe the 13 spring was new but not certain.  Tests were done with Lyman Digital Trigger Pull gauge.  Realize YMMV.

 

MS     DA TP     SA TP
13.0      7.8         2.4
11.5      7.2         2.2
  8.5      5.5         2.2
 

[crash83]

On 11/12/2018 at 2:01 AM, mrpredictable said:

Used a 8.5# in my SP01 shadow for a while. Should work in your 75b with an extended firing pin, and a reduced power firing pin spring. Mine was 100% with federal primers and ~98% with CCI. 

 

I switched back to a 11.5# for consistency and a less squishy feel. 

Let me hijack for a second, if you change to the extended firing pin and reduced power spring and use the 11.5 or 13 # CGW springs ,don't you have to change out the sear or the firing pin arm or whatever it is called . the piece mounted in the sear cage?

I'm asking because i was on the phone with CGW earlier today and they said in order for me to accomplish what i wanted to do , i had to change out all kinds of stuff.

This has been a confusing evening...sorry guys i'm new to CZs as far as upgrading , and i'm really trying to grasp all of this as i go. 

[George16]

31 minutes ago, crash83 said:

Let me hijack for a second, if you change to the extended firing pin and reduced power spring and use the 11.5 or 13 # CGW springs ,don't you have to change out the sear or the firing pin arm or whatever it is called . the piece mounted in the sear cage?

I'm asking because i was on the phone with CGW earlier today and they said in order for me to accomplish what i wanted to do , i had to change out all kinds of stuff.

This has been a confusing evening...sorry guys i'm new to CZs as far as upgrading , and i'm really trying to grasp all of this as i go. 

 

What were you trying to accomplish?

[kneelingatlas]

@crash83

 

Maybe this will help:

 

 

[crash83]

On 11/17/2018 at 7:28 AM, kneelingatlas said:

@crash83

 

Maybe this will help:

 

I have gone through the thread.

Really all i want to do is lighten the trigger pull,on DA and SA .and i dont want to buy a ton of stuff that isn't needed in order to do so.

 

[kneelingatlas]

Jason,

 

My goal with that tuning guide was to detail steps which can all be done in isolation, polishing and springs are cheap.  A 15# hammer spring will get you a lighter DA with good reliability even if you don't change anything else, if you go to a 13#, I recommend at least a reduced power firing pin return spring or extended firing pin, if you go 11.5# you should have both, 8.5# needs all of the above plus Federal primers.

 

A race hammer is a great way to improve your SA pull (which is the majority of your trigger pulls anyway), but they're pricey.  You can file the hooks of a stock hammer, but you go through the surface hardening so you might develop hammer follow and need a new one before too long.

[crash83]

5 minutes ago, kneelingatlas said:

Jason,

 

My goal with that tuning guide was to detail steps which can all be done in isolation, polishing and springs are cheap.  A 15# hammer spring will get you a lighter DA with good reliability even if you don't change anything else, if you go to a 13#, I recommend at least a reduced power firing pin return spring or extended firing pin, if you go 11.5# you should have both, 8.5# needs all of the above plus Federal primers.

 

A race hammer is a great way to improve your SA pull (which is the majority of your trigger pulls anyway), but they're pricey.  You can file the hooks of a stock hammer, but you go through the surface hardening so you might develop hammer follow and need a new one before too long.

In your thread i read it more as a whole ...not as individual steps per say.

But let me ask you this, can i do a reduced power firing pin  spring, and a 13# hammer spring, with out the extended safety block lever? [located in the sear assembly].

Basically what im asking is this, what exactly can i do without removing the sear, or removing it with a slave pin and not have to disassemble the sear assembly. I'm not very comfortable with the teardown of the sear assembly just yet.

 

[kneelingatlas]

44 minutes ago, crash83 said:

In your thread i read it more as a whole ...not as individual steps per say.

But let me ask you this, can i do a reduced power firing pin  spring, and a 13# hammer spring, with out the extended safety block lever? [located in the sear assembly].

Basically what im asking is this, what exactly can i do without removing the sear, or removing it with a slave pin and not have to disassemble the sear assembly. I'm not very comfortable with the teardown of the sear assembly just yet.

 

 

Oh yes, the firing pin block lifter mod is for when you're chasing the shortest reset possible.  Your combination should be fine.

[crash83]

32 minutes ago, kneelingatlas said:

 

Oh yes, the firing pin block lifter mod is for when you're chasing the shortest reset possible.  Your combination should be fine.

Thank you.