MPF Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 MikieM, which Vortex came with your Canik? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikieM Posted September 8, 2018 Author Share Posted September 8, 2018 8 hours ago, MPF said: MikieM, which Vortex came with your Canik? The Viper. It's the model that sandwiches the battery in between the sight and the interface plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sti38super Posted September 8, 2018 Share Posted September 8, 2018 9 hours ago, MikieM said: The Viper. It's the model that sandwiches the battery in between the sight and the interface plate. What is the Dot size? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikieM Posted September 8, 2018 Author Share Posted September 8, 2018 1 hour ago, sti38super said: What is the Dot size? 6 MOA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlucky13x Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 On 8/23/2018 at 10:17 PM, evild said: Been running mine since January. Glock tungsten captured guide rod with 12 lb springe, Glock reduced power plunger spring and Glock 5.5 lb striker spring. Gun runs 100% with Federal spp and 99% with S&B. My trigger pull is under. 2.5 lbs. and the new guide rod n spring are a drop in ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlucky13x Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 so gents. i had a complete USPSA disaster this past weekend. pretty sure it was a dirty mag issue but wonder if it could be more. i had dozens of FTFs. same ammo as usual ,nothing out of the norm. it was almost funny where i had afw shots then ftf hand rack shoot ftf hand rack shoot... ALMOST FUNNY since i have totally cleaned everything and will test today. what else could cause these catastrophic FTFs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerba Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 2 hours ago, xlucky13x said: it was almost funny where i had afw shots then ftf hand rack shoot ftf hand rack shoot... ALMOST FUNNY What is the exact FTF problem? was it not going into battery? did it strip the top round? It could be a dry gun...when was the last time you cleaned it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlucky13x Posted October 21, 2018 Share Posted October 21, 2018 (edited) On 10/18/2018 at 8:08 AM, racerba said: What is the exact FTF problem? was it not going into battery? did it strip the top round? It could be a dry gun...when was the last time you cleaned it? It just was not ejecting. It was coming half way out. so I could peel the round out of the top the slide. The next round wanted to chamber but couldn't. I looked at the extractor today and it looks fine. I rubbed a very small amount of oil on the night before the match. I'm gonna contact canik asap. Hopefully it's a easy fix Edited October 21, 2018 by xlucky13x Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evild Posted October 22, 2018 Share Posted October 22, 2018 (edited) On 10/18/2018 at 6:49 AM, xlucky13x said: and the new guide rod n spring are a drop in ? Yes, thecGen 4 adapter is optional, i didn't like thecway it felt with out. I may switch to a Sig 320 rod because it's heavier Edited October 22, 2018 by evild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerba Posted October 23, 2018 Share Posted October 23, 2018 On 10/21/2018 at 11:03 AM, xlucky13x said: It just was not ejecting. It was coming half way out. so I could peel the round out of the top the slide. The next round wanted to chamber but couldn't. I looked at the extractor today and it looks fine. I rubbed a very small amount of oil on the night before the match. I'm gonna contact canik asap. Hopefully it's a easy fix FYI - it's FTE (Failure to Eject) not FTF (Failure ot Feed)... Sounds like the slide is just too dry...you need more than "a very small amount of oil" on the slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weapon Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 If you are running Glock 17 recoil springs, check your slide travel to make sure the spring isn't bottoming out early and preventing your slide from fully cycling. To check slide movement, put the factory RSA back in the pistol, put a strip of masking tape on the slide, put another strip of masking tape on the frame, rack the slide all the way back and make a mark on the tape where the two pieces meet. Leave the two pieces of tape in place but switch out to the Glock guide rod and spring, then rack the slide all the way back and see if the two marks still line up or if the mark on the slide tape stops short of the mark on the frame tape. An 11lb recoil spring is right on the edge of running into issues with the pistol returning to full battery. Caniks are cock on close so the recoil spring is fighting against the striker spring for the last quarter inch of slide travel. If you drop your mag in some dust/grit and then try to shoot the next stage without cleaning it out, the extra friction is going to cause failures to return to battery. What ammo are you running? Check to make sure your thumb isn't putting any upward pressure on the slide lock lever while shooting. You can inadvertently slow your slide down pretty easily with the stock extended slide lock lever. Century has a replacement slide lock lever that doesn't have that extra nub on it for around $9 or so. Easy SFx break in: put the factory recoil spring back in it, shoot two or three boxes of Win Q4318 124gr NATO spec ammo through it, clean it and re-lube it. My current Sfx setup: Freedomsmith trigger (tuned to 2.25lbs) Glock extended guide rod with gen 4 adapter (outer diameter trimmed so it will sit flush in the slide) and a Wolff 13lb Glock 17 spring with one (possibly two?...will have to look at my notes) coils cut off to allow full slide travel Ghost 6.5lb striker spring Ghost RP plunger block spring for a Glock with minor stretch after nipping off one coil Tungsten loaded backstrap Trigger return spring with a #2 SS split ring added to the loop end of the spring (It adds just enough length to relieve the extra tension the FS trigger puts on the TRS) Polished trigger bar Polished firing pin Polished block plunger TF +4 mag pads It will run 135gr or 147gr HiTek coated bullets loaded at 130pf with no issues. SmokyMTNConcealment makes a nice holster for the SFx if anyone needs one for carry optics -- they are really nice if you add a Boss hanger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikieM Posted October 26, 2018 Author Share Posted October 26, 2018 Yes, the cock on close is the culprit. Try a 13 pound (non captured) recoil spring with a 31 Newton (7 pound striker spring). Worked great for me. These are Glock parts, by-the-way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screaminyz Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 If you are running Glock 17 recoil springs, check your slide travel to make sure the spring isn't bottoming out early and preventing your slide from fully cycling. To check slide movement, put the factory RSA back in the pistol, put a strip of masking tape on the slide, put another strip of masking tape on the frame, rack the slide all the way back and make a mark on the tape where the two pieces meet. Leave the two pieces of tape in place but switch out to the Glock guide rod and spring, then rack the slide all the way back and see if the two marks still line up or if the mark on the slide tape stops short of the mark on the frame tape. An 11lb recoil spring is right on the edge of running into issues with the pistol returning to full battery. Caniks are cock on close so the recoil spring is fighting against the striker spring for the last quarter inch of slide travel. If you drop your mag in some dust/grit and then try to shoot the next stage without cleaning it out, the extra friction is going to cause failures to return to battery. What ammo are you running? Check to make sure your thumb isn't putting any upward pressure on the slide lock lever while shooting. You can inadvertently slow your slide down pretty easily with the stock extended slide lock lever. Century has a replacement slide lock lever that doesn't have that extra nub on it for around $9 or so. Easy SFx break in: put the factory recoil spring back in it, shoot two or three boxes of Win Q4318 124gr NATO spec ammo through it, clean it and re-lube it. My current Sfx setup: Freedomsmith trigger (tuned to 2.25lbs) Glock extended guide rod with gen 4 adapter (outer diameter trimmed so it will sit flush in the slide) and a Wolff 13lb Glock 17 spring with one (possibly two?...will have to look at my notes) coils cut off to allow full slide travel Ghost 6.5lb striker spring Ghost RP plunger block spring for a Glock with minor stretch after nipping off one coil Tungsten loaded backstrap Trigger return spring with a #2 SS split ring added to the loop end of the spring (It adds just enough length to relieve the extra tension the FS trigger puts on the TRS) Polished trigger bar Polished firing pin Polished block plunger TF +4 mag pads It will run 135gr or 147gr HiTek coated bullets loaded at 130pf with no issues. SmokyMTNConcealment makes a nice holster for the SFx if anyone needs one for carry optics -- they are really nice if you add a Boss hanger. Weapon,Could you please take a picture of the #2 split ring installed if possible? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weapon Posted December 7, 2018 Share Posted December 7, 2018 (edited) yep. please excuse the nasty, uncleaned SFx. The split ring is just attached to the spring loop. It is almost identical in size. The rating on the one I used was about three times higher than will ever be required. Those little devils are surprisingly stout if you get the stainless ones. Edited December 7, 2018 by Weapon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screaminyz Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 Thanks for the picture, now I just have to decide which trigger to buy from Freedom Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davsco Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 just installed the freedomsmith racer trigger, what a monster change in reduced trigger takeup!!!!! will try it out at a match tomorrow. tell you what though, those pins were TIGHT, way tighter than my glocks. and the tiny one in the takedown lever is a real b*tch to take out and put back in. but, wow, takeup is almost gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screaminyz Posted December 19, 2018 Share Posted December 19, 2018 Davsco, Thanks for the heads up on the pins. Have you ever tried the regular fat trigger? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davsco Posted December 20, 2018 Share Posted December 20, 2018 21 hours ago, Screaminyz said: Have you ever tried the regular fat trigger? nope, just figured the racer was close to the stock trigger profile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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