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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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    Looks for Match
  • Birthday 02/12/1969

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    Rodney Chedister

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  1. You can put a shim or set screw in the front of the trigger where it meets the frame to eliminate much of the take up. I played around with it on my SFx before ordering the FreedomSmith. For the shim method, you just rough up the flat on the front of the trigger slightly and then use a strong epoxy to glue a kydex or polymer shim to it. If you measure the take up really well, you can order the exact thickness you need. That simplifies it down to just epoxing the shim in place. set screw version: get a short set screw from Lowe’s or Home Depot. Drill the correct size hole for a tap for whichever screw you use (6-32 works) in the trigger on the flat that meets the frame. Tap the hole to thread it. Screw in the set screw and adjust it to eliminate as much take up as you want and then Loctite it in place. Both methods work but I wanted a flat trigger set slightly farther forward so I ended up ordering the FreedomSmith trigger.
  2. They are used for all sorts of stuff - easiest place to find them is usually outdoor sports stores in the fishing department (they sell them in pack of 5 or 10 for a buck or two. I swiped the one I used off of a small crankbait. Someone in another thread mentioned they are often used in jewelry making so Hobby Lobby and the like carries them. The one you want is basically the same size as the loop that is on the end of the spring. A number 2 round split ring works well but you can use one of the small oval shaped ones from Academy Sports as well. Since they are oval shaped, they are slightly longer and will relieve slightly more tension. I have played around with my SFx trigger and the triggers on several other Caniks quite a bit. If you get one under 2.25lbs, you will likely have to modify the trigger blade safety spring as you will get to the point to where the trigger will be easier to pull than the blade safety is to disengage. Anything under two pounds gets too mushy. With the freedomsmith trigger and the above spring swaps, anything under 2.5lbs will take some getting used to. When I hand my SFx to people at the range who are used to using conpetition pistol triggers, they usually get an accidental click when they are raising the pistol to look down the sights the first time. Then they turn and look at me and laugh. At 2.25lbs with a very short pull and soft wall, it feels like a <2lb trigger. No one expects that on a striker fired pistol.
  3. FreedomSmith USA trigger. Then register your Canik for warranty online. Not saying you will for certain but you might have some problems with the factory RSA and 130 power factor ammo. If you do, you can call Century and they will send you a lighter RSA for free. Additional trigger suggestions: Get a Ghost 6.5 lb striker spring for a Glock or a 28 Newton striker spring for a Glock - swap either one out for the factory striker spring (they are seriously overpowered) Get a Ghost reduced power firing pin block plunger spring for a Glock (swap it out for the factory block plunger spring - it is seriously overpowered). Polish the block plunger when you replace the spring. Polish all contact surfaces on the trigger bar when you install the FreedomSmith trigger. Especially the tops of the tabs on the trigger bar and the outer surface of the rear tab (the one closest to the grip) The FreedomSmith trigger gets rid of almost all of the take up but it will also cause a bit of pre-tensioning of the trigger return spring. Add a stainless number 2 split ring to the loop end of the trigger return spring and then re-install it on the trigger bar hook. That should give you a sub-3lb trigger with very little take up and almost no overtravel. Once it has a bit of break-in, it will likely settle in at around 2.25-2.5lbs. If you want more weight on the front end, a glock 17L tungsten guide rod for a gen 3 glock will work if you use the gen 4 adapter (keeps it centered while moving). You may need to slightly reduce the outer rim of the gen 4 adapter to get it to sit in the Canik slide properly but it doesn't take much. A 13lb Wolff Glock 17 spring should work well with this guide rod but you shouldn't try that combo without changing out the striker spring first. Caniks are cock on close. If you run a light recoil spring with the factory striker spring you will certainly have out of battery issues. If you are a little creative with a dremel, you can fit a couple ounces of tungsten under the removable backstrap...
  4. Possibly the most accurate description I have seen to date.
  5. I used the Ghost 6.5lb striker spring with no problems. The stock striker spring is definitely a no go - it is seriously overpowered. I tried to get a reading for the stock Canik striker spring and it went over the max on my gauge so it is over 9.5lbs.
  6. The problem is likely the extra tension on the trigger return spring that occurs from how the FreedomSmith trigger positions the trigger return spring. Pull out the trigger return spring and add a number 2 spring ring to the spring loop and then reinstall it. The split ring will add just enough length to return the TRS to normal tension. Your trigger pull should drop about 0.75lb to 1lb. It will not change the trigger position, reset, etc so it will feel the same but much lighter.
  7. Weapon

    Canik TP9 SFX Tungsten Rod?

    I am running the tungsten rod for the 17L in my SFx for the time being with a Wolff 13lb spring and a gen 4 adapter. The lip on my gen 4 adapter was a little too large for it to sit flush in the Canik's slide so I just reduced the outer diameter slightly. As you have to be able to remove the adapter to get the barrel out, I made mine a press fit that is just tight enough to require moderate pressure to pop it out of the slide. It's just enough to keep me from losing the adapter if I take the slide off at the range.
  8. Weapon

    New Canik TP9SFx......

    yep. please excuse the nasty, uncleaned SFx. The split ring is just attached to the spring loop. It is almost identical in size. The rating on the one I used was about three times higher than will ever be required. Those little devils are surprisingly stout if you get the stainless ones.
  9. Weapon

    Laugo Arms Alien

    Yeah - that's an awful lot of money considering the long term durability is an unknown at this point. I was hesitant when they first said it would be "about the price of a quality 1911" and I was thinking they were shooting for something in the $1500-$1600 range. I didn't realize they meant "in the price range of a quality 2011 open class gun with bells and whistles"... If you just look at the price of the accessories, there must be some premium pricing there as well. "Red Dot- C MORE RTS 2 Range Bag- Elornis Industries Holster with Heart6 Hinge- Elornis Industries One extra magazine with Aluminum pad , Mec-Gar (total 3 magazines)Aluminum Magwell- Laugo Arms Red Dot ready Upper Slide- Laugo ArmsIron Sights Upper Slide- Laugo ArmsCleaning kit" The RTS2 explains $400 of the $1650 but what is the price breakdown for the remaining $1250? The "upper slide" is not so much a slide as a pic rail with locking lugs on each end. Are those $400 each??
  10. Weapon

    Laugo Arms Alien

    From their press release on Facebook: "Dear Laugo Arms friends and supporters, In 2019 Laugo Arms Czechoslovakia would release ALIEN 9mm pistol for commercial sales. We will manufacture just a limited edition of 500 pcs worldwide with original serial numbers from 001/500 to 500/500. Official release would take place at IWA exhibition on 8th March 2019 (Hall 3, booth 541) However availability may be different in various countries depending on import process. Especially in the US availability may be slightly delayed but shouldn’t be later than in 7/2019. ALIEN 500 limited edition package would be sold only as fully equipped model with wide range of accessories worth around 1650 USD. These accessories include: Red Dot- C MORE RTS 2 Range Bag- Elornis Industries Holster with Heart6 Hinge- Elornis Industries One extra magazine with Aluminum pad , Mec-Gar (total 3 magazines) Aluminum Magwell- Laugo Arms Red Dot ready Upper Slide- Laugo Arms Iron Sights Upper Slide- Laugo Arms Cleaning kit Manufacturers Sales Recommended Price is 5000 USD +-10% can be slightly different in various countries based on different taxes and import costs. Next week we will publish first group of distributors for some countries."
  11. Weapon

    Laugo Arms Alien

    Eta July 2019 MSRP with accessories: $5000USD
  12. Weapon

    Bullet weight vs the timer

    Does it matter if you go with the red sauce or the white cheese sauce? Hard or soft tacos? I have suspected they have an influence on my hit factor but I haven’t been able to pin down a pattern.
  13. Weapon

    Bullet weight vs the timer

    And wear the right underwear when reloading your match ammo. Actually, I have only narrowed that down to the underwear or the ball cap I am wearing while reloading - one or the other leads to ammo with a much lower SD and better split times.
  14. Weapon

    Bullet weight vs the timer

    Once you find the super optimal bullet, you still have to find the super optimal primer, powder, brass, OAL, recoil spring and pre-match coffee to go with it.
  15. Weapon

    TP9SFX Light Primer Strikes

    First, get some of the long gun cleaning swabs and some gun cleaner and blast out the channel cut in the slide for the firing pin to make sure there isn’t any build up in there slowing the firing pin. Do the same with the cut for the block plunger. Based on what you are saying, it probably isn’t that simple but it is worth trying as it is a possible cause and it requires minimal effort. The light strikes are likely being caused by inference between the block plunger and the firing pin but I doubt the actual plunger is the problem. If you have calipers, measure the two firing pins to see if the one from the pistol that is having problems is significantly shorter. It may be within specs but also worth checking. With the slide and frame fully assembled but with the slide off the frame, paint the top edge of the two trigger bar tabs with a permanent marker or Dykem blue layout fluid. Also color the bottom of the block plunger. Look on the underside of the slide - you will see a ramped area that is directly above where the rear tab on the trigger bar normally makes contact. Paint a line on that contact area as well. Put the slide back on the frame and dry fire it a few times. Then pull the slide back off and check the marks you made on the trigger bar tabs, the bottom of the block plunger and especially the area in the slide. You will likely find a clean spot on the top of both tabs, at least a partial clean line across the block plunger’s surface and then a partial line on the ramp in slide. The second (rearward) trigger bar tab is likely slipping off that ramp occasionally and letting the front tab lose contact with the block plunger. The block plunger then moves up and slows the firing pin’s forward movement. Issues with the second tab can also cause problems with partial trigger reset. The second possibility: the front tab is bent to one side or the other and losing contact with the block plunger too quickly. If the line on the block plunger goes down the middle of the block plunger it is likely the first option above. If you send it in to Century, it would likely come back with a note indicating they had replaced the trigger bar, block plunger and firing pin assembly (kind of a catch-all approach). If you want to try to fix it yourself, put a piece of masking tape at the bottom of the rear tab and another closer to the top. Grab the bottom of the tab with one pair of pliers and the top of the tab with a second pair of pliers. If you are looking at the trigger bar from the rear, you want to bend the tab very slightly to the right. It usually doesn’t take much — maybe a quarter to a half of a millimeter or so. If that doesn’t work, I’d fill out a service request with Century and send it in as something else is likely wrong with the trigger bar geometry.