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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Weapon

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    Looks for Match
  • Birthday 02/12/1969

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    Rodney Chedister

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  1. Weapon

    Bullet weight vs the timer

    Does it matter if you go with the red sauce or the white cheese sauce? Hard or soft tacos? I have suspected they have an influence on my hit factor but I haven’t been able to pin down a pattern.
  2. Weapon

    Bullet weight vs the timer

    And wear the right underwear when reloading your match ammo. Actually, I have only narrowed that down to the underwear or the ball cap I am wearing while reloading - one or the other leads to ammo with a much lower SD and better split times.
  3. Weapon

    Bullet weight vs the timer

    Once you find the super optimal bullet, you still have to find the super optimal primer, powder, brass, OAL, recoil spring and pre-match coffee to go with it.
  4. Weapon

    TP9SFX Light Primer Strikes

    First, get some of the long gun cleaning swabs and some gun cleaner and blast out the channel cut in the slide for the firing pin to make sure there isn’t any build up in there slowing the firing pin. Do the same with the cut for the block plunger. Based on what you are saying, it probably isn’t that simple but it is worth trying as it is a possible cause and it requires minimal effort. The light strikes are likely being caused by inference between the block plunger and the firing pin but I doubt the actual plunger is the problem. If you have calipers, measure the two firing pins to see if the one from the pistol that is having problems is significantly shorter. It may be within specs but also worth checking. With the slide and frame fully assembled but with the slide off the frame, paint the top edge of the two trigger bar tabs with a permanent marker or Dykem blue layout fluid. Also color the bottom of the block plunger. Look on the underside of the slide - you will see a ramped area that is directly above where the rear tab on the trigger bar normally makes contact. Paint a line on that contact area as well. Put the slide back on the frame and dry fire it a few times. Then pull the slide back off and check the marks you made on the trigger bar tabs, the bottom of the block plunger and especially the area in the slide. You will likely find a clean spot on the top of both tabs, at least a partial clean line across the block plunger’s surface and then a partial line on the ramp in slide. The second (rearward) trigger bar tab is likely slipping off that ramp occasionally and letting the front tab lose contact with the block plunger. The block plunger then moves up and slows the firing pin’s forward movement. Issues with the second tab can also cause problems with partial trigger reset. The second possibility: the front tab is bent to one side or the other and losing contact with the block plunger too quickly. If the line on the block plunger goes down the middle of the block plunger it is likely the first option above. If you send it in to Century, it would likely come back with a note indicating they had replaced the trigger bar, block plunger and firing pin assembly (kind of a catch-all approach). If you want to try to fix it yourself, put a piece of masking tape at the bottom of the rear tab and another closer to the top. Grab the bottom of the tab with one pair of pliers and the top of the tab with a second pair of pliers. If you are looking at the trigger bar from the rear, you want to bend the tab very slightly to the right. It usually doesn’t take much — maybe a quarter to a half of a millimeter or so. If that doesn’t work, I’d fill out a service request with Century and send it in as something else is likely wrong with the trigger bar geometry.
  5. Maybe these will help. All chrono'd from a Canik TP9SFx: Acme 135gr RN (coated) 1.145" OAL, HP38 3.8gr = ~133.5 average power factor Blue Bullets 135gr - 1.150" OAL, HP38 3.7gr 132.4 average power factor Acme 145gr RN coated - 1.155" OAL, HP38 3.3gr 129 average power factor
  6. Weapon

    New Canik TP9SFx......

    If you are running Glock 17 recoil springs, check your slide travel to make sure the spring isn't bottoming out early and preventing your slide from fully cycling. To check slide movement, put the factory RSA back in the pistol, put a strip of masking tape on the slide, put another strip of masking tape on the frame, rack the slide all the way back and make a mark on the tape where the two pieces meet. Leave the two pieces of tape in place but switch out to the Glock guide rod and spring, then rack the slide all the way back and see if the two marks still line up or if the mark on the slide tape stops short of the mark on the frame tape. An 11lb recoil spring is right on the edge of running into issues with the pistol returning to full battery. Caniks are cock on close so the recoil spring is fighting against the striker spring for the last quarter inch of slide travel. If you drop your mag in some dust/grit and then try to shoot the next stage without cleaning it out, the extra friction is going to cause failures to return to battery. What ammo are you running? Check to make sure your thumb isn't putting any upward pressure on the slide lock lever while shooting. You can inadvertently slow your slide down pretty easily with the stock extended slide lock lever. Century has a replacement slide lock lever that doesn't have that extra nub on it for around $9 or so. Easy SFx break in: put the factory recoil spring back in it, shoot two or three boxes of Win Q4318 124gr NATO spec ammo through it, clean it and re-lube it. My current Sfx setup: Freedomsmith trigger (tuned to 2.25lbs) Glock extended guide rod with gen 4 adapter (outer diameter trimmed so it will sit flush in the slide) and a Wolff 13lb Glock 17 spring with one (possibly two?...will have to look at my notes) coils cut off to allow full slide travel Ghost 6.5lb striker spring Ghost RP plunger block spring for a Glock with minor stretch after nipping off one coil Tungsten loaded backstrap Trigger return spring with a #2 SS split ring added to the loop end of the spring (It adds just enough length to relieve the extra tension the FS trigger puts on the TRS) Polished trigger bar Polished firing pin Polished block plunger TF +4 mag pads It will run 135gr or 147gr HiTek coated bullets loaded at 130pf with no issues. SmokyMTNConcealment makes a nice holster for the SFx if anyone needs one for carry optics -- they are really nice if you add a Boss hanger.
  7. Weapon

    Laugo Arms Alien

    If they price the Alien like a good Limited 2011, good luck selling them in the US in any volume for several years. The 2011 design is tried and true with multiple cartridges and it has an utterly insane level of aftermarket support. Don't like the feel of a particular thumb safety on a 2011? There are only about three dozen other thumb safeties available that will fit. Competition holster options? About 17 trillion. Grips? What material, size, color, weight and so on do you want because someone probably makes it... If they price the Alien at $5,500....???...just no. They should likely be shooting for something much closer to the price of a CZ Shadow 2 with a few upgrades.
  8. Weapon

    Load for a Canik TP9SFx?

    My SFx is about the same - I can plunk and spin Acme 145gr RN lipstick bullets to 1.170" (average bullet weight is actually about 146gr). I had a couple that felt like they had some very, very slight friction so 1.165" is probably the actual max. No chrono data for these yet -- I have a half a dozen versions loaded up but haven't had time to get to the range. If you want to try some different loads: Acme 135gr RN lipstick 3.7gr Win 231 1.140" = average 129.5pf Acme 135gr RN red coated lipstick bullet - 3.4gr Tite Group 1.145" = avg 134pf Blue Bullet 135gr RNFP 3.30gr Tite Group 1.150" - ten shot average 131.5pf (these are 0.355") Blue Bullet 135gr RNFP 3.7gr Win 231 1.145" - average 132pf My SFx runs runs all of the above with no problems but I am not using the factory recoil spring and it is 'somewhat' tuned up. This was just for fun: 115gr HAP 6.3gr Power Pistol 1.075" - avg 138.5pf - outstanding late afternoon muzzle flash.
  9. Weapon

    Canki TP9 SFx Trigger Upgrade

    Apologies for the slow response - I shifted to a slightly different position and area at work and it has been sucking up all my time. I had a few different sized weights on hand from a previously project but I would check with Midwest Tungsten Service: https://www.tungsten.com/products/tungsten-rod/ You will probably have to call or email them but they have tungsten rod from .030” up to 4” diameter. Another possible option would be tungsten fishing weights - those are available in several sizes. the 3/8” diameter weights on the bottom add most of the weight. If you widen/deepen the channels in the backstrap from top to bottom, you could always file or grind down the tops on 3/8” diameter rod to let the backstrap close. Every now and then, you can find a small set of the 3/8” or 1/4” weights on sale for under $10
  10. Weapon

    Canki TP9 SFx Trigger Upgrade

    Look on amazon - tungsten weights. The top ones are 1/4" diameter and the lower ones are 3/8" diameter. Try to find tungsten that is over 99% pure. If you have a Hobby Lobby nearby. they may have pinewood derby car weights that are tungsten - those can also be found on amazon and likely eBay as well. You do have to mod the backstrap and the frame slightly to make them fit. Basically just gut out the center studs and cross-supports on the backstrap's hollow side. From there, just wrap the weights in 220 grit and slide them back and forth in the grooves already cut in the back of the frame until the weights will sink low enough for the backstrap to close over them and line up with the roll pin hole at the bottom. The top ones are fairly easy to fit as the pre-existing notches are almost wide enough and deep enough for them to go in. The bottom ones which are 3/8" diameter require some effort. If you know anyone with a mill and a 3/8" ball cutter, it would take about a minute to make both cuts to depth. No such luck for me on that weekend so I used a 3/8" diameter grinding bit on a dremel for the bottom weights and very carefully increased the depth until I could get the backstrap just not quite closed over them. Then I very lightly sanded the rough cuts with 400grit wrapped around the 3/8" weight to get the last bit of extra clearance. There is still a lot of material separating the weights from the magazine when it is inserted but it would be fairly hard to cut too deeply. You can constantly check your depth while you are doing the work by looking up the mag well with a small penlight and see exactly how deep the weights are sitting. If you want to keep them from rattling around but not make it permanent, you can also order tungsten putty. You can put a small amount of the putty around the weights and in the backstrap and then squeeze it shut over the weights. I went over the top and used MarineTex that I loaded with 99.99% pure tungsten powder. Despite having large hands, the small backstrap lets the pistol point more naturally for me. The downside is there is less room for the weight but it was still pretty easy. I got 3oz crammed in the small backstrap without too much effort. I could likely get 3.75oz in the large backstrap but 2.75-3.0oz made the SFX balance perfectly for me. Unloaded with an empty mag inserted, the balance point is now directly under the tip of the trigger. It now feels oddly CZish in terms of balance. That little weight mod combined with a Freedomsmith trigger and a few other upgrades works wonders for the SFX. It is good out of the box but with the FS trigger, the weight mod and a little other tuning here and there, it has some real teeth.
  11. Weapon

    Canki TP9 SFx Trigger Upgrade

    Fun mod for the SFX...a bit of tungsten:
  12. Weapon

    Para Magwells

    Yeah - $100 for a factory mag with a Dawson mag extension? It would be crazy to do that instead of just dropping the extra $30 for the MBX mag. A factory mag with a Dawson works but it isn’t anything like an MBX. A lot of guys at local matches run those and their build quality impresses me every time I pick one up. As soon as I get some of the other gun projects off my bench, I am going to get a couple of those mags for the first grab slots on my P16 belt.
  13. Weapon

    Para Magwells

    That’ll work. I have files, a blast cabinet and cerakote. How can i get funds to cover shipping to you? My zip is 72401.
  14. If your SFx has the original striker spring, those are way too stout. You can replace it with a Ghost 6.5lb striker spring for a Glock and likely never have a pin break again. Another option is the Glock 28 Newton spring. The reduced power striker springs also solve problems with failure to return to battery issues if you run a lighter recoil spring. Like basically all striker fired pistols, Caniks are cock on close and the factory striker spring will cause battery issues with any recoil spring under 14-15lbs. I got one of the first SFx pistols and its original striker spring was over the max on my spring gauge so >10lbs. Canik apparently designed those for dry firing pencils to the moon. Since I mentioned spring swaps...ditch the factory block plunger spring and replace it with a Ghost reduced power block plunger spring for a Glock or a reduced power CZ block plunger spring from Cajun Gun Works. That makes a noticeable difference on the first SFx pistols but a huge difference on the newer ones that have the severe duty upgrade (which came out after the Sig p320 drop test fiasco). On the SFx pistols with the Severe Paranoia Upgrade, a block plunger spring swap will often reduce the trigger pull by a full pound and sometimes more. With the RP block plunger spring, a 28 Newton striker spring and a bit of polishing, you can get the trigger to 2.5lbs fairly easily.
  15. Weapon

    Para Magwells

    I tracked down one of the ACT mags for the RIA double stack 40/10. It came in a couple days ago and those are extremely close to the original Canadian mags I have. I looked at the MBX mags previously but...$130 a mag. I may still get a couple of them at some point. Still waiting on the Dawson magwell (or “Dawsom” magazine well as GPC has it listed...no wonder I couldn’t find it with search).