ErikW Posted October 29, 2001 Share Posted October 29, 2001 My 1100 came apart while cleaning last night. There's this rail piece, I guess it's the "Feed Latch," staked in to the left side of the receiver. It's kind of bent and doesn't want to stay in place and it hangs up the bolt carrier sometimes when I cycle it. So obviously I need to replace it. But how do I stake it into the receiver? Take it to a gunsmith? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Sweeney Posted October 29, 2001 Share Posted October 29, 2001 The long spring shell stop is one of the aggravations of the Remington 1100. Brownells makes a couple of tools to re-stake it. If you're going to use an 1100 for competition, one of these is a must-have tool. In use, press the shell stop back in place, then re-stake it with the tool. Shell stops that have fallen out are best reinstalled with a helper. Place the stripped receiver on a solid, padded bench (a section of carpeting will do) to stake. You can't do anything more secure. I once (ONCE!) drilled and tapped an 1100 and its shell stop. The shell stop is harder than sin, and I wore out two Ti coated drills and broke three taps. (Hey, once I started I wasn't going to stop, but having done it, I'll never do it again.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted October 29, 2001 Share Posted October 29, 2001 #Moderation Mode Moved here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikW Posted October 29, 2001 Share Posted October 29, 2001 BE: Doh! PS: Ah yes, I see the $30 tool (for the $15 part). Thanks. Wish I had posted before I ordered the part... more shipping charges to Brownells. Since you seem knowledgeable of the 1100, what might you suggest for removing the politically correct magazine tube indents on a new gun? I'm thinking I need to bring it to the 3 gun nationals as a spare for my quarter-century-old gun. Maybe it's a third of a century now, it's starting to fall apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted October 30, 2001 Share Posted October 30, 2001 Erik, edit: This post is for the tube detents. Make sure to ckeck my post below for some clarity on what I am talking about. A proper sized wood (the kind that are flat) bit in a variable speed drill will do the trick. I was surprised. Whaps 'um right out. It has works for at least five guns that I know of. Then some grinding with a dremel to smooth everything out. Brownells make a tool. I think it was $40 though. (Edited by Flexmoney at 5:39 pm on Oct. 30, 2001) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Sweeney Posted October 30, 2001 Share Posted October 30, 2001 What Flexmoney said, and I've used several different kinds of drill bits. So there are holes in the tube, it's not like it's a loadbearing component. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Singlestack Posted October 30, 2001 Share Posted October 30, 2001 I did mine with a dremel and a stone. Stuff a rag down the tube to keep the crap out of your action then grind them off from the inside. There is no need to drill them and create holes. It can be done without making holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted October 30, 2001 Share Posted October 30, 2001 I should add some more to my post. We use a flat, wood drill bit that is nearly the size of the inside diameter of the tube. We slip it past the nubs, coming from the muzzle end, then start the drill up. (Make absolutely sure you have your shotgun mounted solid in a vise...and maybe have someone hold on to it.) Pull the drill back towards you (and hold tight). As the bit engages the nubs, it whaps them out. It is kinda like hammering them out from the inside. That will take care of the majority of the work. Then smooth everything out with the Dremel and some grinding stones. Polish and then make sure to get all the metal shavings cleaned out of the tube (and the receiver...if you didn't plug some cloth in the bottom of the tube). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Bagoly Posted October 31, 2001 Share Posted October 31, 2001 I found a short section of heavy tubing that just fit over the outside of the mag tube. That kept the tube from being distorted, while I pounded the dents out with my homemade supersize sight staking tool. The wood drill thing scares me. I have been smacked too many times when the bit grabbed and spun the workpiece, or the drill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Singlestack Posted October 31, 2001 Share Posted October 31, 2001 Man........ It only takes about 10min with a dremel tool and a stone.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TM262 Posted October 31, 2001 Share Posted October 31, 2001 I have to agree with SS on this one. Stuff a rag in the mag tube, grind and polish with the Dremel tool. In and out in 10 - 20 min. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Bone Posted October 1, 2002 Author Share Posted October 1, 2002 I've got a Rem 1100 used for 3 gun matches. It's become my next project to upgrade and I do NOT like the barrel length. That thing is way too long. I want it to be 22 in. What are my options? Buy a shorter barrel? From who? Cut it off? What about rethreading for chokes? Who's is best for that type of work? Do I need to enlarge the gas holes after shortening? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikW Posted October 1, 2002 Share Posted October 1, 2002 I purchased a RemChoked 21" rifle-sighted deer barrel from Cabelas, which has a really good price. (Unless you can get a dealer discount from Brownells or somewhere.) With a Briley extended choke it's about flush with the Choate 8+1 magazine tube. My only complaint is that I would prefer a vent rib and beads for the steel and clay shooting (though it may suck on long slug shots). You can have Briley or somebody cut your barrel (somewhere in a vent post) and thread it for chokes. Threading it isn't cheap, but there are less expensive shotgun smiths out there. I dunno about the ports. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Snyder Posted October 2, 2002 Share Posted October 2, 2002 An 1187 special purpose vent rib 21inch barrel with Rem chokes would be my choice. They dont have the extra gas ports nor pressure control ring, and fit on 1100's. You usually have to open the ports a couple of numbered drill sizes to make them work with light loads...regards Les Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FayettevilleFatKid Posted October 2, 2002 Share Posted October 2, 2002 Colonial Arms is very fast and very reasonably priced to shorten and rethread a barrel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikW Posted October 2, 2002 Share Posted October 2, 2002 An 1187 barrel will fit an 1100? Not what I've heard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted October 2, 2002 Share Posted October 2, 2002 CDNN has the cheapest short 1100/11-87 barrels-- but beware those are "police" barrels and aren't threaded for choke tubes and are IC-only. Gander Mountain had a smoking deal on Rem barrels a while ago-- those are threaded for chokes, and priced even better than dealer at Brownells. In another thread on short-barrelled 11-87's, somebody mentioned the 'Barrel Seal Activator', which I found works great to make light loads work my 20" 11-87 bbl. If you go to Remington's web site and tell them you have a 3.5" SuperMag, there's a place you can sign up to have one mailed to you (that took a couple months) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now