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Low recoil buffer for non adjustable gas


spydercomonkey

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Hey guys, I'm looking to setup a LWRC DI 16" Midlength as sort of a "one and done" do all AR, suitable for both entry level competition and general SD/HD/things.

Basically the goal is to get a tactical rifle with as close to the smoothness/flatness of a competition AR, but without sacrificing reliability / messing with the gas or bolt.

 

I'm going to be using the PA EFAB as the muzzle device, because it also works as a flash suppressor and has much less blast then a typical competition brake. But testing shows the EFAB is rated for ~50% recoil reduction vs 70% for a more serious muzzle break, so I'm now looking into whether alternate buffers can help make up for the remaining 10-20% recoil. 

 

I'm considering the following options, and I wanted to see if anyone here has any experience with them in terms of how they effect recoil:

-JP Silent Capture

-Kynshot/Enidine Hydraulic buffer

-Vltor A5

-MGI Rate and Recoil Reducing Buffer

-DPM Recoil reducing buffer (this one looks the most promising, but there is no info on it.)

https://dpmsystems.us/collections/ar-15/products/ar-15-223-5-56-calibre-rifles-mil-spec-standard-buffer-tube

 

Does anyone here have any experience with the above, and if so, did they help reduce / smooth the recoil impulse? Any other options you would suggest?

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I have experience with the Kynshot/Blitzkrieg hydraulic buffer in both my 10.5" SBR and 16" 9mm AR.  It certainly helped with the recoil impulse in both rifles.  It's hard to explain, but in both rifles it smoothed the 'sharpness' of the impulse.  Like, if you graphed recoil, the line would be curved as opposed to a sharp crest.  I also run JP Polished buffer springs in both and it was surprising how much that helped.  They're cheap too...

 

I know you mentioned not wanting to 'mess with the gas,' but I will tell you that you'll notice a more effective recoil reduction by adding an adjustable gas block.  There's a perception that if you adjust the gas, somehow the rifle is less reliable.  That reputation is deserved for guys who like to play with the fine line and adjust down to where the bolt barely cycles.  This is a dangerous game to play and not worth it.  However, I'll tell you that with the proper adjustment, you're actually increasing reliability and durability.  It really depends on how over gassed your system currently is.  

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

The JP silent captured buffer was the part I added to my rifle. The recoil is so much smother than anything else I've tried. I don't have any experience with the blitzkrieg hydraulic buffer, but I would like to try that out in my PCC.


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  • 6 months later...

If the critical application will be self defense, stick with full-mass BCG and a CAR or H-Buffer. The fancier stuff might give you a marginal edge in competition but it can fail at the worst moment. You are not going to lose the Chevy truck for lack of a fancy buffer.

 

If it were me, instead of buying a high-ticket gun like that, I would buy a plain vanilla 16" midlength free-floated AR15 from a name brand (e.g. S&W) and keep it stock for self-defense. I would then use the money saved to buy a competition-optimized upper (full competition brake, low mass BCG, adjustable gas system etc.), and just switch uppers according to the application. Just my 2 cents worth.

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  • 1 month later...

Short version, I think a well built race rifle will perform in the roles you describe. And any AR style rifle requires the same basic maintenance to stay reliable.

Long version:
I have a fair amount of experience with colt, FN, etc actual M4s and I've seen them fail in every possible way. No question they are built to be tough, but they also do suffer exceptional abuse. At a live fire this week I saw an M4 turn into a bolt action rifle (probably due to a 20 year old magazine or some nonsense). I have had a personally owned highend "mil spec+' gun that failed multiple times (charging handle latch ripped off, "properly staked" castle nut came loose, bad accuracy with 55 grain ammo, part fitment issues)

In contrast, my 3gun race rifle that I cobbled together from performance parts has been very reliable and performances at least 20% better than a milspec rifle (totally subjective), but only suffers from minor abuse. Failures with this rifle have always been due to bad primers or a poorly seated magazine. I just occasionally need to tighten up the various mounting bolts.

My opinion is that whatever you have, you need to check that the bolts stay tight everywhere. Mark them with a paint pen and use loctite. Take special care that the gas system runs right. If you do that, lubricate the rifle a little, and use high quality magazines, your rifle will go pew pew every time.

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