Chris Rhines Posted February 18, 2005 Share Posted February 18, 2005 Can I stipple the grip with a hot wood burner or soldering iron? Sure. Just keep a tub of your favorite redi-mix epoxy putty around for when you go to far and put a hole in the pistol grip. I went so far as to do a high-cut trigger guard on one of mine. Looks great, except for the brownish Acraglas patch... Will JP anti-walk pins fit? (See gunny's post above.) If not, are there others that will? Nope, don't think so. The reciever is a bit too wide. I don't know of any other anti-walk pins that would fit, but it should be pretty easy to fabricate a set if you have access to an electric drill and a triangular file. Or a lathe. Oh yeah, and what's with the carbine buffer? How is that going to affect my 20" JP-Cooley comp upper with full-weight carrier? Mine has a 16" upper with no comp and a full-weight carrier, and it functions fine.- Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SinistralRifleman Posted February 19, 2005 Share Posted February 19, 2005 Oh yeah, and what's with the carbine buffer? How is that going to affect my 20" JP-Cooley comp upper with full-weight carrier? It won't effect function at all. I currently have 3 CAV-15 MKII lowers I've been running 20" uppers on for the past year and a half...the recoil impulse with a 20" gas system is smoother with a CAR buffer, than a carbine length gas system with a CAR buffer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liota Posted February 19, 2005 Share Posted February 19, 2005 Keep me in mind when you run the pink ones again. Liota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dghboy315 Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 what's the LOP on a cav arms lower? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SinistralRifleman Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 what's the LOP on a cav arms lower? The stocks are A1 Length. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikW Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 Definately more of a reach to the mag release button on the CA lower. I couldn't fit two different uppers until I sanded the front of the hinge pin lugs that were interfering with the handguard. It's still a tight fit getting the pins in. The grip takes to hot iron stippling very well. I'm going to have to put some weight in the stock to balance the 20" HBAR upper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikW Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 Anybody got a fix or retrofit for the trap door on the stock? It's cheesy and opens accidentally. I trimmed the tab but that didn't help. Does anybody make a magazine release button extension? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SinistralRifleman Posted June 3, 2005 Share Posted June 3, 2005 Anybody got a fix or retrofit for the trap door on the stock? It's cheesy and opens accidentally. I trimmed the tab but that didn't help.Does anybody make a magazine release button extension? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> A1 or A2 Buttplates and trap doors will work with the CAV-15. The buttplate that comes with it, must have the trap door latch actively pushed back up into place to remain closed once its been opened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dshooter3 Posted June 4, 2005 Share Posted June 4, 2005 I found that the reach to the mag release was a little long for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickster Posted April 15, 2006 Share Posted April 15, 2006 Am in the process of putting together the Cav MK II lower using the JP trigger, hammer and springs. Love how it feels. Location of trigger and mag button are perfect for me. Because the JP hammer doesn't have that little springy thingy to keep the already too short hammer pin from walking out, I'm a bit worried that the pin will walk out. Does anyone make a longer hammer pin? Or better yet, an anti-walk longer hammer pin. Can I make one the correct size by cutting a peice of drill rod? Besides, the too short hamer pin just doesn't look right, even if it does work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
open17 Posted April 15, 2006 Share Posted April 15, 2006 Am in the process of putting together the Cav MK II lower using the JP trigger, hammer and springs. Love how it feels. Location of trigger and mag button are perfect for me.Because the JP hammer doesn't have that little springy thingy to keep the already too short hammer pin from walking out, I'm a bit worried that the pin will walk out. Does anyone make a longer hammer pin? Or better yet, an anti-walk longer hammer pin. Can I make one the correct size by cutting a peice of drill rod? Besides, the too short hamer pin just doesn't look right, even if it does work fine. Pick up a piece of 5/32" drill rod and have at it. You might have to polish it a bit to get it to fit. JP pins run .156, 5/32" is .15625. For a one time pin, the butt of a drill bit might be long enough, and available locally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickster Posted April 16, 2006 Share Posted April 16, 2006 Thanks open17. I did just what you said. Works like a charm. And looks good too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SinistralRifleman Posted April 16, 2006 Share Posted April 16, 2006 So even with the longer pin, if your hammer doesn't have the j-pin in it what keeps it from Walking out? How many people would be interested in a run of long hammer pins meant to be used with C-clips to hold them in place? A friend of ours is storing his lathe at our shop, and he's looking for projects. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cactustactical Posted April 16, 2006 Share Posted April 16, 2006 Hmm, I would be interested in this and a few extra just to have around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickster Posted April 17, 2006 Share Posted April 17, 2006 SinistralRifleman When I cut the rod with a dremel it left a little burr on each end, just like when you replace the roll pin on them 1100 lift gates with a peice of drill rod. I'm hoping the little burr on each end will have enough "bite" into the plastic to hold the pin in there. Don't know if it'll work but I'm hoping. Only shooting a bunch of rounds will tell the truth. The good thing about the longer pin is that if it does start to walk, I'll notice it right away by sight or feel. Put me down for an extended one with clips if your guy gets around to it. That would be the ideal way to handle it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwrig Posted April 17, 2006 Share Posted April 17, 2006 So even with the longer pin, if your hammer doesn't have the j-pin in it what keeps it from Walking out?How many people would be interested in a run of long hammer pins meant to be used with C-clips to hold them in place? A friend of ours is storing his lathe at our shop, and he's looking for projects. Russell, Any idea on cost? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wakal Posted April 17, 2006 Share Posted April 17, 2006 Hey, the thread is back! I'd buy a set or two of the "Cav" anti-walk pins IF (IF IF IF) they came with a pink lower... Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zak Smith Posted April 17, 2006 Share Posted April 17, 2006 +1 on the FCG pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael_aos Posted June 13, 2006 Share Posted June 13, 2006 I'd be "in" for a longer hammer-pin w/c-clips. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uscbigdawg Posted June 14, 2006 Share Posted June 14, 2006 Ditto. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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