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What Bolt To Get


Sestock

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If your starting from scratch, look up JP Enterprises, I have the stainless low mass system which should give long life and reliability but has a very quick recoil impulse. I shot it next to my buddies nearly identical rifle with the alum. low mass system and neither of us could tell any difference. I have run over 400 rounds through it so far with no failures.

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Mil-spec

God knows I'm not a 3-gun expert by any stretch, but I do know that if your AR chokes bad, you are just totally hosed. There are just too many reports of foo-foo bolt/carriers royally screwing the pooch to make me ever want to go down that road.

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I got bored and build up a JP stainless carrier with a Smith chrome bolt, old-style firing pin retainer, chome key, and a chrome cam. Oh, so pretty. But...

Works just like Liota's all-chrome DPMS bolt carrier group.

Which works just like my DPMS mil-spec bolt carrier group.

Which works just like my Bushmaster mil-spec bolt carrier group.

Which works just like Liota's Colt Colt-spec bolt carrier group.

Which works just like my genuine, accept no imitations or civilian-issue "we lie about being mil-spec" mil-spec bolt carrier group ;)

All that said (or typed), I do like the way a standard carrier feels if you shave 1.5-2 ounces off it :) If you don't have a mill, the JP stainless low-mass is spiffy...I'd stay away from the aluminum ones if you want to shoot more than few thousand rounds, though.

And the chrome/stainless ones seem to be easier to spot the gunk you missed with the carb cleaner :)

Alex

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+1 on Wakals advice.

The fancy coatings are just that. Fancy coatings. If you have the cash great, but if you are looking for a performance edge there isn't one.

The JP low mass stainless is an option if you are doing everything you can to reduce recoil, but I don't necessarily put it in the class of the bling coatings.

Craig

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If you are going to load your own ammo, tuned to your rifle, run light bullets, drop to min power factor, get an adjustable gas block and light bolt and be prepared to tune recoil spring as well. I think Tubbs is even making a lite model. Now you'll have a gun that doesn't move hardly at all. However it won't function very well with box ammo. It kinda of the same route people do with the open 38supers in IPSC.

If factory ammo is what your going to run, then RRA, Armalite, STAG bolts are just fine. You'll shoot out several barrels before the upper and carrier are worn out.

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Get the DPMS, or any quality Milspec one from a reputable manufacturer.

They all work the same if they are made to proper tolerances.

Erik is right about hard chrome cleaning up a little easier.

I like the phosphate finish because I don't notice/mind it getting dirty when I use it ;-)

And I am talking about the bolt, not the carrier. The carrier is another story altogether ;-)

Edited by George
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Yep, bolt, not carrier. I use the Mil DPMS without problems, no reason to change. As for carriers, I have a alum JP with 4000k+ on it without trouble, secret is keep the carbon out of it and lots of mobil 1. When I change it I will go to JP stainless. I also have a Mil DPMS that looks like its going to last forever, same thing, keep the carbon out and lots of mobil 1.------Larry

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See, you need to read the question not just assume, DOH!

My JP barrel came with a mil-spec looking phosphate coated bolt, nothing trick.

As for the carrier, JP stainless low mass, although George says he has multiple thousands of rounds on his alum. low mass system.

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I don't mean this to sound sarcastic in any way, but it comes down to whether you enjoy tinkering or would prefer to shoot. For a lot of people, I think large part of the "fun" is messing with ammo and tinkering with your gun. If that's the case, get the high-zoot stuff and tinker away. To me, fixing guns and tweaking ammo PF's is about as much fun as cleaning toilets. I'd rather spend my time shooting.

If you just want something that cycles reliably when you pull the trigger, get plain-vanilla bolt and carrier (and associated parts and springs) and go shooting.

There's too many guys kicking butt and taking names with plain-jane rifles to think that the high-zoot stuff gives a much of an advantage except among the super-squad.

Personally, I wouldn't get a bolt that's plated, just because it will be a mess if and when it peels. And nitriding seems to be temporary euphoria at best. If you want your bolt to look bitchin, by all means get the nitrided one. I'm dubious as to how much it will actually extend the service life of the parts.

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As for the carrier, JP stainless low mass, although George says he has multiple thousands of rounds on his alum. low mass system

Not just multiple k rounds, more like just about to hit 10k. I am on my 4th set of gas rings, 3rd set of extractor spring/buffers and just about to send the whole thing back to JP to get another low mass carrier and a complete bolt re-build done. The lo-mass carrier started shedding plating at the face and in the sliding contact areas either side of the carrier key at about 4k. It is bare faced now and there is a hammer groove on the underside about a tenth of an inch deep, but it still seals gas on the inside and runs like when it was new.

I told John Paul that i had over 7 k on my lo-mass carrier at the RM3G last August and he raised his eybrow and said "we never expected them to run more that a few k rounds". We talked a little and he said that as long as I am getting ring sealing to keep gas pressure on the bolt, it should run fine and that the plating elsewhere on the outside of the carrier was more of a cosmetic than a function issue.

Is it possible that i have the longest running alloy lo-mass carrier out there?

Anyone else have a torture test running?

--

Regards,

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For the bolt-carrier, assuming the cost differential isn't huge, I would go with a lightened and hard-chromed version.

What I like about the hard-chrome is:

* easier to clean

* You can actually tell that it's dirty. And it's easier to know where it is dirty. :)

* hard-chrome tends to be more slick than phosphate(?) finishes. Of course you're supposed to oil it. But if you don't the finish may help to keep things running.

A steel carrier should last a bazillion rounds.

I've only run phosphate(?) bolts.

I may try a hard-chromed one in the future to see how it goes. Peeling is a possibility. But the extra hardness may pro-long the bolt's life and give the above benefits. I've had the teeth of a phosphate(?) bolt peen and become unreliable. I believe the hard-chrome should make it harder.

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Arfcom has at least one thread on bolt selection, I think Pat Rogers or some other trainer who sees hundreds of ARs firing thousands of rounds every year made note of some of the failures. I gather several DPMS bolts cracked or failed in some manner. The gist of the thread seemed to be that Colt bolts were some of the best as they were all magnafluxed, flux capacitated, magnadoodled, or in some manner inspected (as in every bolt gets inspected), versus random QC checks by some other manufacturers.

I think there is a thread on here somewhere where the guys at MSTN recommended the LMT bolt, and were using it in their builds. Got to respect that recommendation.

Me?....I've got one Colt bolt, one Rock River, two JPs. Don't know who makes JP's, but you've got to figure it isn't junk, since his rifles rock.

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i don't even know who made my bolt...

I put it in and it worked

now my carrier is a different story. It is a titanium copy of JP's low mass aluminum carrier. I made it after seeing some serious wear an the aluminum one. I probably only have 500-600 rds on it and haven't had any trouble with it. I have the whole "tweaked" recoil system and this gun doesn't move when you shoot it, and i run white box winchester ammo. (160.1pf at the 2003 nats.... whew)

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