What dillon press for a 3 gunner ?

[Want2BS8ed]

Is there anyway to flip that Giruard upside down and mount it on a toolhead?

It would be nice if you could, however the Giruad indexes off of the shoulder, unlike most reloading presses which index off the case rim.

To the OP's original question; if you can afford the upfront investment, get the 1050. Priming on the down stroke and the ability to adjust primer seating depth is worth the price of admission alone and if you are reloading .223 (and 9mm for that matter), on press swagging will save an appreciable amount of your time.

As for the Giruad, I don't think it's necessary for what you are doing. I own one, but don't find myself using it very much. Yes you can (and I do) load sub-MOA ammunition on a 1050, but if your reloading for precision rifle you will more than likely be using a more intensive process for preparing brass.

For 3-gun, load 'em up and go shoot happy in the knowledge that your 1050 is not only faster, but cranks out more accurate ammunition by design.

M


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[camaross400]

I agree with RiggerJJ about purchasing multiple toolheads to do 223 if you go with the RT1500. That is something I should have done. One more thing you should think about before buying the 1500 is the noise level. The Dillon trimmer is way too loud because of the vacuum you need running to suck the shavings away. That is one thing that finally made me sell it. However, I have heard of some guys that have built cupboards to house the vacuum to cut down on the noise.


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[Kraj]

If you can swing the money, 1050s are great. Even if you don't use it to the capacity you spend less time reloading

[RiggerJJ]

13 hours ago, camaross400 said:

I agree with RiggerJJ about purchasing multiple toolheads to do 223 if you go with the RT1500. That is something I should have done. One more thing you should think about before buying the 1500 is the noise level. The Dillon trimmer is way too loud because of the vacuum you need running to suck the shavings away. That is one thing that finally made me sell it. However, I have heard of some guys that have built cupboards to house the vacuum to cut down on the noise.


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Yep, very noisy. I just put on a full cover headset and listen to music...

jj

[TheStagePlan]

A lot of great discussion. thanks for the input I am going to put in the  order for the 1050 setup in 9mm.. I'm currently shooting a zev glock 34 until limcat completes my wildcat perfect sight in 9mm. 

 

as for powders primers and bullets..  

would like to try vihtavuori power not sure which type 

some sort of 147 gr coated bullets

and whats the preference with primers ? 

[nate89]

The vacuum is noisy, but if you are going at a decent pace, you can get 1k plus done in a hour. I put on my peltor hearing protection with a 3.5mm plug-in and listen to podcasts.

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[SlvrDragon50]

N320 is generally the recommended powder for 147gr 9mm.

[Want2BS8ed]

N320 is generally the recommended powder for 147gr 9mm.

A lot of that is personal preference and you may want to try experimenting some before buying in bulk. The heavier the bullet and the slower the powder the longer the recoil impulse i.e. the less snappy. The downside in theory is it's slower to get back on target (or so I've heard - I'm slow to begin with :-) ).

My preference is for VV N350 topped by a 147gr Precison Delta (PD) truncated cone, then a PD 147gr FMJ or a Hornady 147gr FMJ, in that order.

When N350 got scarce, I went through a couple of jugs of N340 which was close. When that started emptying out, I tried some N320 and N330 and didn't care much for the recoil. Eventually settled on Hodgdon CFE Pistol - in large part because you could get it. Still have about 10#'s to work through, but will go back to N350 now that it's on the shelves again.

Kinda thought the whole recoil impulse thing was hogwash until actually trying some different powders. If you can grab a copy of Nosler's powder burn table, it not only lists powder by burn rate vertically, it breaks the manufactures down horizontally and (to me at least) makes it easier to understand what's what.

Ultimately, that's one of the great things about reloading- especially for pistol - you can tailor a load to what your gun likes, and how you like to shoot it.

M

PS Congrats on the 1050. A fine piece of kit.


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[mikeinctown]

20 hours ago, Wheelsonly said:

A lot of great discussion. thanks for the input I am going to put in the  order for the 1050 setup in 9mm.. I'm currently shooting a zev glock 34 until limcat completes my wildcat perfect sight in 9mm. 

 

as for powders primers and bullets..  

would like to try vihtavuori power not sure which type 

some sort of 147 gr coated bullets

and whats the preference with primers ? 

 

N320 and the other variants are almost 2x the cost vs something like TiteGroup, CFE pistol, or the new Alliant Sport Pistol. For match rounds it might be worth it to keep your gun cleaner but I don't see an upside with spending 2x as much when other powders do the same thing.

[TheStagePlan]

I shoot eley in my .22 just cause I prefer the smell ?

[jhgtyre]

18 hours ago, mikeinctown said:

 

N320 and the other variants are almost 2x the cost vs something like TiteGroup, CFE pistol, or the new Alliant Sport Pistol. For match rounds it might be worth it to keep your gun cleaner but I don't see an upside with spending 2x as much when other powders do the same thing.

The cost of powder is such a tiny amount when you are calculating the overall cost of a loaded cartridge that it is almost insignificant.  When I punch in the cost of Titegroup vs. N320 the load calculator I use doesn't even change the final cost per round but when I look at the cost per thousand I go from $182 (N320) to $175 (Titegroup).  So even though the powder itself does cost pretty much twice as much it really doesn't have a big impact on the final cost.  I can live with .007 per round more expensive if I like the powder.  Obviously these numbers will fluctuate depending upon the exact cost and charge weight of the powder you use.  

[Sarge]

2 hours ago, jhgtyre said:

The cost of powder is such a tiny amount when you are calculating the overall cost of a loaded cartridge that it is almost insignificant.  When I punch in the cost of Titegroup vs. N320 the load calculator I use doesn't even change the final cost per round but when I look at the cost per thousand I go from $182 (N320) to $175 (Titegroup).  So even though the powder itself does cost pretty much twice as much it really doesn't have a big impact on the final cost.  I can live with .007 per round more expensive if I like the powder.  Obviously these numbers will fluctuate depending upon the exact cost and charge weight of the powder you use.  

Yep. About a penny per round.

[Balwolley]

On 8/22/2017 at 2:59 PM, The Donald said:

I have a place I get processed 223 brass from. All Lake City, prepped clean ready to load. I load on a 650, with a Mr. Bulletfeeder for 9mm. I load 5,000-6,000 rounds on 9mm at a time. 223 I load 2,000-3,000 rounds at a time. On 223 I set the bullets in by hand.

 

For my 'long range loads, I hand load those on the same processed brass on my T-7.

Where is this source for ready to go 5.56? I have seen a few places online, and don't order much 5.56 but I'm always looking.  I'd be even more interested if they had .308/7.62