Stock II Xtreme Mod List

[MemphisMechanic]

Obviously not.

 

 

[Tanfastic]

7 hours ago, johnbu said:

You were running without the fpb at a L2 match? Didn't they check it?

 

I don't remember, I think "they" checked it.  Or since I was working the match, maybe I checked it?  I can't be expected to remember things this long ago, I'm OLD!... 

[IHAVEGAS]

11 hours ago, Tanfastic said:

 

I don't remember, I think "they" checked it.  Or since I was working the match, maybe I checked it?  I can't be expected to remember things this long ago, I'm OLD!... 

 

Appendix A1 says chrono check is required for level 3 but only reccomended for level 2, I assume the same is true for equipment checks. 

 

Last match I worked it was really tough to get enough volunteers to do what is mandatory, I think if we had one or two less it would have made it neccessary to drop a stage. 

[JP221]

On Friday, June 30, 2017 at 3:44 PM, MikieM said:

 

Absolutely. But a gun with an 8 pound DA, and a 4 1/2 pound SA trigger pull should eat everything. Right?

 

Sorry, not on here much. I'm terrible at following threads.

 

Mine are regular builds from CZ custom.  DA is 6ish lbs, and SA is 2ish lbs.  I like them because they eat everything that case gauges, and will pop any primer including CCI's.

 

I like the Tanfo's buy I think I'd suck just as much with either, so training is more important.

[JP221]

On Sunday, July 02, 2017 at 6:33 AM, Tanfastic said:

 

I don't remember, I think "they" checked it.  Or since I was working the match, maybe I checked it?  I can't be expected to remember things this long ago, I'm OLD!... 

 

I don't think anyone will know the difference, but if the right person found out, it would be an issue......

 

I'd work on getting it fixed before the next Area match, it's not worth the possibility of having issues.

[Tanfastic]

5 hours ago, JP221 said:

 

I don't think anyone will know the difference, but if the right person found out, it would be an issue......

 

I'd work on getting it fixed before the next Area match, it's not worth the possibility of having issues.

 

It's all good, the FPB has been properly fitted, polished and works great.

Edited July 4, 2017 by Tanfastic

[IHAVEGAS]

On 6/19/2017 at 11:43 PM, Tanfastic said:

 @MemphisMechanic thanks for the videos, very helpful!  You're right that this gun is very easy to work on, WAY less complex than my HK's.  

 

 

Wasn't sure where to post this, thought it might be useful to somebody. 

 

Asked my vet if he had a used needle that was kind of large (to catch the end of the sear spring as shown on MM's videos). He handed me one for free that looks perfect. 

[johnbu]

1 hour ago, IHAVEGAS said:

 

Wasn't sure where to post this, thought it might be useful to somebody. 

 

Asked my vet if he had a used needle that was kind of large (to catch the end of the sear spring as shown on MM's videos). He handed me one for free that looks perfect. 

 

Word to the wise,  dull the end so it won't poke a hole in your finger. 

 

I use a very small philips screwdriver to catch and lift the sear spring.  Less chance of my clumsy fingers getting poked !

[Tanfastic]

1 minute ago, johnbu said:

 

Word to the wise,  dull the end so it won't poke a hole in your finger. 

 

I use a very small philips screwdriver to catch and lift the sear spring.  Less chance of my clumsy fingers getting poked !

 

That's exactly what I found worked as well, a tiny electrical contact screwdriver.

[Tanfastic]

I think I'm getting there with this gat thanks to all of the tips here, turns out you guys might know a thing or two! ;-)  So after another round of polishing, and finishing up all of the areas I hadn't touched previously, things are really getting smooth.  Especially polishing the plunger internal channel and the plunger post, made a big difference.  The FPB seems all good now after resizing and polishing, I don't know if there's a better way to test, but what I was doing was holding the hammer back and pushing the firing pin from behind with a punch, making sure it would only go forward while having the trigger pulled, and being blocked until the trigger pull is near the break.  The only thing left at this point is testing a lighter spring combination and reintroducing the bolo, but it's firing 100% right now with my 132PF ammo, so this is my match setup until I can prove it stays 100% with lighter hammer spring.  Currently set up with the 15.5 PD hammer spring, Titan hammer, PD firing pin spring, PD sear spring, PD trigger spring, 8 lb. recoil spring, polished stock disconnector.  6.2 DA/2.4 SA now.  I have my original resized Bolo and ordered another spare to play with as well, will mess with that more next week.  Basically a month away from the Area 3 Championship at this point, so I have time to train and get things dialed in.  

 

So question for Bolo users (seems like pretty much everyone here), did you have to train to get used to the lack of reset throw before it was comfortable for match use?  What I found was that without the longer stock reset, it was difficult for me to shoot smoothly in SA and I was getting a bit of trigger freeze.  Being used to a striker trigger with that tacticle "click" reset every time, I may have just picked up some trigger habits that need to be broken.  When I tested the Bolo it felt like the only way to shoot fast was to slap the trigger, and that didn't feel right.  Any tips on that?

[MemphisMechanic]

Your finger comes off of a Glock trigger when shooting really really fast. I promise it does. I've filmed a lot of diehard "I ride the reset types" when shooting up close and dirty using my sneaky Pivothead camera glasses while ROing them.

 

I promise that even with long striker triggers with short resets, you weren't riding rest. Not without trigger-freezing. You were coming well forward of rest and pulling again.

 

"slap" is a bad word. But there's nothing wrong with coming off the trigger then returning to contact with it to pull it again, either fast or slow. That's how you shoot a Bolo equipped gun. It rests at max forward travel, so in order to guarantee reset and not trigger freeze, you need to come forward well past that point.

 

Do this with the hammer positioned so that the trigger travels full SA amount:

 

 

And dryfire nightly through an array of multiple targets, both up close and at distance. It'll teach you how to shoot a BOLO without moving the sights, and do it fast.

Edited July 7, 2017 by MemphisMechanic

[Tanfastic]

Ok thanks, I'll re-Bolo and do some more training with it.  

[SoCalShooter69]

When JJ first got the bolo in his gun, he joked about people who said they ride the reset. No one does. Everyone trigger slaps. Everyone. If they say different, they're lying. 

 

You're just used to a longer trigger slap... 

 

Put the bolo back in. Get your ammo right. Get your FPB right. 

[SoCalShooter69]

2 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Your finger comes off of a Glock trigger when shooting really really fast. I promise it does. I've filmed a lot of diehard "I ride the reset types" when shooting up close and dirty using my sneaky Pivothead camera glasses while ROing them.

 

I promise that even with long striker triggers with short resets, you weren't riding rest. Not without trigger-freezing. You were coming well forward of rest and pulling again.

 

"slap" is a bad word. But there's nothing wrong with coming off the trigger then returning to contact with it to pull it again, either fast or slow. That's how you shoot a Bolo equipped gun. It rests at max forward travel, so in order to guarantee reset and not trigger freeze, you need to come forward well past that point.

 

Do this with the hammer positioned so that the trigger travels full SA amount:

 

 

And dryfire nightly through an array of multiple targets, both up close and at distance. It'll teach you how to shoot a BOLO without moving the sights, and do it fast.

 

Exactly. Well said. 

[Tanfastic]

13 minutes ago, SoCalShooter69 said:

When JJ first got the bolo in his gun, he joked about people who said they ride the reset. No one does. Everyone trigger slaps. Everyone. If they say different, they're lying. 

 

You're just used to a longer trigger slap... 

 

Put the bolo back in. Get your ammo right. Get your FPB right. 

 

Yes, my ammo is 132PF (just crono'd last night) and has now ran 100% for around 500 rounds, so all good there, FPB also functioning fine, so now just down to the shooter.  The issue is that I never had trigger freeze before.  Even when other people would say they had trigger freeze, I didn't even really know what they were talking about.  Then the first time I went to the range with the Bolo installed and ran some bill drills I was getting noticeable trigger freeze and was like "Oh, now I see what they mean!".  So my question was is this normal learning curve going to a SA trigger, which I guess the answer is yes, just practice more, which I'm happy to do.

[MemphisMechanic]

Yes. It's normal. 

 

Just run it hard and often.

[fellas]

On 28/06/2017 at 10:14 PM, MemphisMechanic said:

It looks like your block is hitting, yes.

 

You can either file the top of the tab down which blocks the striker:

 

 

Or you can file down the head of the FPB that sticks out of the slide - the surface you see with the slide pulled off, and where the sear actually lifts it.

 

I chose to file down the head of it, because it's easier to keep flat in my opinion. A few thousandths is the difference betwen properly fit, and junking the part.

 

First, I'd toss it in a bin somewhere and leave it out of the gun until you get it 100% reliable.

 

The ammo that you're feeding the gun: take a pair of calipers and measure how deeply your premiers are seated. Factory ammo is usually seated flush or very close. For a hammer-fired gun with lightened springs a flush primer is a high primer and the gun will not run on it without a spring like the EGD Medium, which is barely lighter than the stock one.

 

On 28/06/2017 at 10:14 PM, MemphisMechanic said:

 

 

i have the same problem on the normal stock 2 , all parts are factory , should i do the same procedure to eliminate the problem ?

 

thanks for your expertise on the matter

 

[IHAVEGAS]

On 6/29/2017 at 3:43 PM, MemphisMechanic said:

 

They run in my gun with a 13lb spring. They should definitely run in yours (with no FPB) with a 15.5.

 

That is, if you load them and drive them deeply home. Factory ammo with Winchesters doesn't count, because factory primers aren't deep enough - most of the time they're barely flush.

 

Am wondering if maybe that is a good decision point for when to stop taking material off of the bolo.

 

With Wins well seated,  and a pretty fair polish I am about 9 out of 10 on lighting off Win in d.a..

 

Or I could stop being such a cheap arse and take the first one past the limit & back the second one off maybe .005 from that. 

 

Thoughts? In other words, when you can do Win reliably are you pretty much optimized or is there significant gain to be had?

[SoCalShooter69]

You should be 100% with Wins. What's your primer depth?

[Tanfastic]

I shot another 200 rounds in a match today, so at about 700 rounds now without a single light strike, so yeah I'd say 9/10 is not good enough.  At least for competition it's not.

[IHAVEGAS]

6 hours ago, SoCalShooter69 said:

You should be 100% with Wins. What's your primer depth?

 

006 ish, 1050 .

 

 

[SoCalShooter69]

5 minutes ago, IHAVEGAS said:

 

006 ish, 1050 .

 

 

Take that down to .010" 

[johnbu]

9 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said:

 

Am wondering if maybe that is a good decision point for when to stop taking material off of the bolo.

 

With Wins well seated,  and a pretty fair polish I am about 9 out of 10 on lighting off Win in d.a..

 

Or I could stop being such a cheap arse and take the first one past the limit & back the second one off maybe .005 from that. 

 

Thoughts? In other words, when you can do Win reliably are you pretty much optimized or is there significant gain to be had?

 

Double check that your FPB is not rubbing.  at 006" deep, wins should pop every time.

 

How uniform are the primer depths? Could 1 in 10 be only "flush" ? 

[IHAVEGAS]

19 minutes ago, johnbu said:

 

Double check that your FPB is not rubbing.  at 006" deep, wins should pop every time.

 

Even if the hammer is not coming back close to as far as ideal in double action?

 

Will check consistency of seating and fpb!

[MemphisMechanic]

My gun killed Winchester primers seated .005-.008" flawlessly with the short-stroked DA you get from an unmodified Bolo. And a 13lb PD spring.

 

Try removing the block entirely next time you head to the range, if you think it could be part of your problem.

 

In my opinion you shouldn't have a FPB installed in your gun until it's finished being setup and you have a thousand or so trouble-free rounds downrange. I shot locals and practice for months without it, which gave me one less variable to chase when figuring out why my gun wasn't working.

Edited July 9, 2017 by MemphisMechanic