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Shadow in CO with zeroing issue (help)


Dutchman195

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Update on this for those that are following. After talking to the guys who did the mount it appears they cut the mount flat and it should have been cut with a 1 degree slop towards the muzzle. It was shimmed, mounted and lock tighted down . Gun stayed zero'd for about 30 rounds and then the mounting screws stripped and the dot wandered off again. 

Another problem I had with the Venom was the battery cap kept coming loose. Very disappointed all around. Will be up for sale later today. 

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Sorry to hear about your troubles.  This stuff apparently isn't just "cut the slide, screw the optic in", there's a little engineering involved.  Can't figure out why the screws should have stripped (was it the screws stripping or the screw holes in the slide that stripped?). 

 

I know that for the RTS2 the mounting instructions also say there should be a gap (small) between the front of the slide cut and the front of the optic, to keep the slide from "banging" into the optic's housing every shot.  There's apparently a small amount of flex that's needed when the gun fires and the slide suddenly (violently?) moves backward. 

 

Again, sorry to hear this. 

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1 hour ago, teros135 said:

Sorry to hear about your troubles.  This stuff apparently isn't just "cut the slide, screw the optic in", there's a little engineering involved.  Can't figure out why the screws should have stripped (was it the screws stripping or the screw holes in the slide that stripped?). 

 

I know that for the RTS2 the mounting instructions also say there should be a gap (small) between the front of the slide cut and the front of the optic, to keep the slide from "banging" into the optic's housing every shot.  There's apparently a small amount of flex that's needed when the gun fires and the slide suddenly (violently?) moves backward. 

 

Again, sorry to hear this. 

There is a gap between the front of the optic and the cut in the slide. Not sure how much but enough to see daylight without looking to hard (1/16th of inch maybe?)

 

The screws stripped. Could potentially get more screws but at this point its been a issue daily. However I am getting exceptionally proficient at zeroing the optic every day when I go to the range to trouble shoot haha. 

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Just now, Dutchman195 said:

There is a gap between the front of the optic and the cut in the slide. Not sure how much but enough to see daylight without looking to hard (1/16th of inch maybe?)

 

The screws stripped. Could potentially get more screws but at this point its been a issue daily. However I am getting exceptionally proficient at zeroing the optic every day when I go to the range to trouble shoot haha. 

 

At least you learned a new skill :P

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2 hours ago, Dutchman195 said:

Update on this for those that are following. After talking to the guys who did the mount it appears they cut the mount flat and it should have been cut with a 1 degree slop towards the muzzle. It was shimmed, mounted and lock tighted down . Gun stayed zero'd for about 30 rounds and then the mounting screws stripped and the dot wandered off again. 

Another problem I had with the Venom was the battery cap kept coming loose. Very disappointed all around. Will be up for sale later today. 

Did the shop offer to re-cut it with the correct "slop"? They should!

 

ETA: Now that I think about it, the mounting screw holes will be off-axis. This sucks! Sorry!

Edited by ChuckS
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26 minutes ago, ChuckS said:

Did the shop offer to re-cut it with the correct "slop"? They should!

 

ETA: Now that I think about it, the mounting screw holes will be off-axis. This sucks! Sorry!

Not to worried about it since I can shim it super easy. Rather get rid of it and dump the money into bullets so I can get good practice in. All I really need to do is survive optics nationals. So if my glock with the TJ-RM44 mounting plate and RMR can stay zero'd for 20 stages I'll be good.

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Damn that really sucks about the slide milling and sight screws. I'ma knock on some wood before the next match with my dovetail mount optics. I think I maybe ok tho, roughly 800 rounds fired so far, zeros held since day one.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

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9 minutes ago, bsand said:

Damn that really sucks about the slide milling and sight screws. I'ma knock on some wood before the next match with my dovetail mount optics. I think I maybe ok tho, roughly 800 rounds fired so far, zeros held since day one.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 

I was trying to avoid a super high offset by getting the slide milled. But alas, ended up with a Glock 19 and a dovetail mount. Should quit trying to reinvent the wheel. The money I have invested into this I could have Bought a Glock 34 MOS and been down two weeks ago haha. 

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Before you sell it I'd get some higher quality screws and try it again.  If the threads stripped out of the slide it's possible the screws weren't long enough to fully support the dot sight.  I would not give up on it after all you've been through with the gun and sight.

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Just now, JGus said:

UMTactical.com sells shims for this purpose. Fits right under the red dot.  I had same issue with my Burris Fastfire 3 on a milled Shadow slide.  Installed the shim and it's perfectly zeroed.  $10 for the shim.  Easy fix.

The optic has a shim under it already. with the shims and the correct screws it Zero'd fine and then its posted for sale, which I see you posted in that add as well.

Edited by Dutchman195
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