Benevolence Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 (edited) Hi guys, newby here. Decided I should build my first 1911/2011. I got my slide and frame in (not 80%) for the build and realized that the dimensions will make me have ~0.010" slop in the horizontal and vertical directions for the slide:frame fit. Black dimensions are 'nominal' from Kuhnhausen's book and red dimensions are actual. I know the barrel:slide fit is more important, but this seems like a fair bit. Just hoping for a sanity check on this; I already emailed the manufacturer/vendors and they seem like good folk, so I'm hoping to get it resolved. Another thing is that I think I screwed up on the grip safety I should have gotten; it's a Wilson Combat high rise 298B on a CK frame. Edited August 6, 2016 by Benevolence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z40acp Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 What do you mean? You will have to take .004" off the bottom of the slide. Fit that right and there is no up and down slop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzt Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 I think he has been reading about fitting the slide where it runs on the frame deck, not the bottom of the slide. B, remove the .004" from the bottom of the slide. The frame rails are already correct. Then just coat everything with motor oil or lube and run them in and out until they are buttery smooth. Do not use grit to lap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltdmstr Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 I think he has been reading about fitting the slide where it runs on the frame deck, not the bottom of the slide. B, remove the .004" from the bottom of the slide. The frame rails are already correct. Then just coat everything with motor oil or lube and run them in and out until they are buttery smooth. Do not use grit to lap. How is the frame already correct? It measures .760 and internal slide dimension is .755. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benevolence Posted August 6, 2016 Author Share Posted August 6, 2016 My understanding was that the point of getting oversized parts and 'hand' fitting them was to get near exact dimensions. Such as the 'groove' on the slide matches the rail on the frame, and vice versa; in both vertical and horizontal dimensions. If I take 0.004" off the bottom of the slide, then the top of the frame will still be 0.011" below the 'top' dimension of the slide. The horizontal 0.755/0.760" is fine because it is oversized in that dimension and I can remove material to fit. The horizontal 0.632/0.622" is undersized 0.010" and I cannot make up for it by taking material off. Yes, the 0.755" feature will be taking up the horizontal slop (ie; the frame rails will be controlling, not the slide 'rail's), and the 0.115" vertical feature will be taking up the vertical slop. Is it okay to want a good fit....? Or do I just get it so it works? I was hoping for a good fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flatland Shooter Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 Time to old school it? If so, read up on peening the rails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzt Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 Math error ltdmstr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z40acp Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 On Caspian frames you would remove from the top to fit exactly into the slide but STI and SV's are made to remove from the bottom of the slide for up down fit. Side to side remove from sides of the frame to match inside of slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrPostman Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 On Caspian frames you would remove from the top to fit exactly into the slide but STI and SV's are made to remove from the bottom of the slide for up down fit. Side to side remove from sides of the frame to match inside of slide. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltdmstr Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 Math error ltdmstr. No prob. Happens to me all the time. Time to old school it? If so, read up on peening the rails. Why would he need to peen the rails? The slide height already matches frame at .119. All he has to do is remove .0025 from each side of the frame so it matches the slide width at .755. On Caspian frames you would remove from the top to fit exactly into the slide but STI and SV's are made to remove from the bottom of the slide for up down fit. Side to side remove from sides of the frame to match inside of slide. I've done a lot of slide/frame fits with Caspian parts over the past 20 years and almost all required removing material from the bottom of the slide and sides of the frame. I have had a couple that required machining of the top of the frame, but those were fairly recent production. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjones6686 Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 I put the Wilson Combat high ride grip safety on both of my limited guns with CK Arms frames. Took a lot of material off the grip safety to blend it to the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benevolence Posted August 7, 2016 Author Share Posted August 7, 2016 Would it be unreasonable to ask the store for a configuration of the slide/frame that is oversized and not having the ten thou clearance in those areas? Perhaps I'm making a big deal out of it though. Thanks for the advice though; I hadn't heard the differences between where to remove material for caspian vs. STI frames. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzt Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 B, your frame was made to run 2011 style. You are not going to find a slide with extra material in the areas you want. It will not matter. If you remove the correct amounts from the bottom of the slide and the frame rails, you will have an interference fit that you can then hone in. There will be zero vertical or horizontal play. Since this is your first build, I'd suggest you use CK Arms parts for everything you can, except possibly their mag release if not using their grip. The reason is the fit is close and blending is easy. For any STI style pistol, one of the best and easiest grip safeties is the J.E.M. GS. It is made for JEM by EGW. It is bar stock, fits like a glove, blends with Emory and is so much better than the MIM STI part it isn't funny. You can order it from either firm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunsngeeks Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 On 8/7/2016 at 1:34 PM, zzt said: B, your frame was made to run 2011 style. You are not going to find a slide with extra material in the areas you want. It will not matter. If you remove the correct amounts from the bottom of the slide and the frame rails, you will have an interference fit that you can then hone in. There will be zero vertical or horizontal play. Since this is your first build, I'd suggest you use CK Arms parts for everything you can, except possibly their mag release if not using their grip. The reason is the fit is close and blending is easy. For any STI style pistol, one of the best and easiest grip safeties is the J.E.M. GS. It is made for JEM by EGW. It is bar stock, fits like a glove, blends with Emory and is so much better than the MIM STI part it isn't funny. You can order it from either firm. I agree...use CK parts wherever you can and it will definitely make for less work in the long run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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