Disconnector Question?

[Th3Un4givin]

I've noticed for awhile that when I pull my slide to the rear and not just let go but gently release the slide I can feel it hangup for a second when it hits the disconnector, after looking at it the other day I noticed that where the slide meets it there is a little bit of a lip before it hits the ramp of the disconnector. Should i worry about this or just continue to shoot it the way it is? Can I just file it down a little bit and then polish it?

Also, I've been looking at changing it out for either the extreme disconnector or the race disconnector, is there a benefit of one or the other?

Thanks in advance!

[CHA-LEE]

The "Clunk" or resistance as the slide comes forward and pushes down the disconnector is normal. I wouldn't suggest trying to file on anything to minimize this as this is how the gun is designed to function. There isn't much difference between disconnectors. The Extreme one is lightened and looks cool, but it functions exactly the same way as a standard one.

[Postal Bob]

That's normal operation. Put in an 8lb recoil spring, and you can slowly release the slide, and have it stay at rest against the disconnector. But that's not how a slide normally closes. This disconnector design has worked for over 100 years. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[MrPostman]

You can pull it out and Polish the mating surfaces, then oil it.You can also round the part of the slide slightly where it contacts the disconnector as well. It won't completely eliminate the problem but I will make a huge difference.

Edited April 18, 2016 by MrPostman

[ltdmstr]

I always file a slight 45 degree bevel on the end of the disconnector rail. There's no downside unless you overdo it and it really helps smooth out the cycling.

[Steve in Allentown PA]

Many will modify the disconnector lug by milling a bevel into it which eliminates the bump you feel. Will the pistol run fine without it? Absolutely. It's a tweak that the Bullseye shooters use to make sure the first round is chambered with the same forces as all the following rounds in an atempt to eliminate variation.

I like it on aluminum frame guns to prevent the hardened steel disconnector from being slammed against the frame. Instead the the disconnector is forced straight down. It gives me peace of mind.

A number of pistolsmiths will perform this modification that was invented by Bob Marvel. I send my slides to Joe Chambers to have them modified. It does not adversly affect feeding in any way. It's only money afterall.

Here's a picture of one example:

[MrPostman]

Many will modify the disconnector lug by milling a bevel into it which eliminates the bump you feel. Will the pistol run fine without it? Absolutely. It's a tweak that the Bullseye shooters use to make sure the first round is chambered with the same forces as all the following rounds in an atempt to eliminate variation.

I like it on aluminum frame guns to prevent the hardened steel disconnector from being slammed against the frame. Instead the the disconnector is forced straight down. It gives me peace of mind.

A number of pistolsmiths will perform this modification that was invented by Bob Marvel. I send my slides to Joe Chambers to have them modified. It does not adversly affect feeding in any way. It's only money afterall.

Here's a picture of one example:

Very interesting solution. What is the depth of cut at the front and what is the length of taper to the rear? Edited April 18, 2016 by MrPostman

[Th3Un4givin]

The "Clunk" or resistance as the slide comes forward and pushes down the disconnector is normal. I wouldn't suggest trying to file on anything to minimize this as this is how the gun is designed to function. There isn't much difference between disconnectors. The Extreme one is lightened and looks cool, but it functions exactly the same way as a standard one.

Awesome, thank for the reply looks like Im just worrying about something that isnt a big deal.

Many will modify the disconnector lug by milling a bevel into it which eliminates the bump you feel. Will the pistol run fine without it? Absolutely. It's a tweak that the Bullseye shooters use to make sure the first round is chambered with the same forces as all the following rounds in an atempt to eliminate variation.

I like it on aluminum frame guns to prevent the hardened steel disconnector from being slammed against the frame. Instead the the disconnector is forced straight down. It gives me peace of mind.

A number of pistolsmiths will perform this modification that was invented by Bob Marvel. I send my slides to Joe Chambers to have them modified. It does not adversly affect feeding in any way. It's only money afterall.

Here's a picture of one example:

Thats a pretty interesting way of solving the problem, not sure if its a good idea for me since my gun has already been chromed and runs fine the way it is but maybe on the next. Thanks for the info!

[ltdmstr]

Many will modify the disconnector lug by milling a bevel into it which eliminates the bump you feel. Will the pistol run fine without it? Absolutely. It's a tweak that the Bullseye shooters use to make sure the first round is chambered with the same forces as all the following rounds in an atempt to eliminate variation.

I like it on aluminum frame guns to prevent the hardened steel disconnector from being slammed against the frame. Instead the the disconnector is forced straight down. It gives me peace of mind.

A number of pistolsmiths will perform this modification that was invented by Bob Marvel. I send my slides to Joe Chambers to have them modified. It does not adversly affect feeding in any way. It's only money afterall.

Seems like an overly complicated way to solve the problem. The bevel works fine and takes about two minutes with a file. Probably less.

[ltdmstr]

Btw, just checked an SV limited gun and apparently they do the bevel as well.

[MikeRush]

Some smiths mill a "v" shaped feature in the disconnector rail to achieve the same thing.

As far as the disconnector, I prefer the "race" version because it is fluted and more race. I like that I can add oil to the disconnector and the flutes allow the oil to travel down to the other components in the frame. I generally do oil changes on my guns so having a route for the oil to travel is a good thing.

[MrPostman]

Some smiths mill a "v" shaped feature in the disconnector rail to achieve the same thing.

As far as the disconnector, I prefer the "race" version because it is fluted and more race. I like that I can add oil to the disconnector and the flutes allow the oil to travel down to the other components in the frame. I generally do oil changes on my guns so having a route for the oil to travel is a good thing.

So what brand of oil filter do you use? Fram? STP? LOL

[Steve in Allentown PA]

Seems like an overly complicated way to solve the problem. The bevel works fine and takes about two minutes with a file. Probably less.

I love capitalism. So many choices. I'm a better-mouse-trap kind of guy so this modification appeals to me.

This is not for the kitchen table hobbyist with a Dremel tool.

MrPostman, the length of the cut varies depending on which 'smith does it. But it can't be so long that the the disconnector isn't pushed all the way down in time to fulfill its designed function. The depth of the cut at the front is not critical as long as the tip of the disconnector does not contact it.

[CHA-LEE]

This modification may work with large rim cases like .45. But I would be leery of doing it on smaller caliber rounds (.40, 9mm, .38, etc). You are giving up quite a bit of real estate on the bottom of the breach face where it picks up the round out of the magazine which can only reduce feeding reliability. Potentially reducing feeding reliability while "solving" a non-issue does not sound like the best idea to me. But to each their own.

[MrPostman]

Seems like an overly complicated way to solve the problem. The bevel works fine and takes about two minutes with a file. Probably less.

I love capitalism. So many choices. I'm a better-mouse-trap kind of guy so this modification appeals to me.

This is not for the kitchen table hobbyist with a Dremel tool.

MrPostman, the length of the cut varies depending on which 'smith does it. But it can't be so long that the the disconnector isn't pushed all the way down in time to fulfill its designed function. The depth of the cut at the front is not critical as long as the tip of the disconnector does not contact it.

I have a mill so I could do these easily. Just by the picture it appears to be maybe .080" or so deep in the front and then tapers about 1.500" long. I agree with CHA-LEE that this may not be a good idea for smaller rimmed cases, especially 38 supercomp, but I won't know for sure until I go into the shop and take some measurements.

Edited April 19, 2016 by MrPostman

[Steve in Allentown PA]

This modification may work with large rim cases like .45. But I would be leery of doing it on smaller caliber rounds (.40, 9mm, .38, etc). You are giving up quite a bit of real estate on the bottom of the breach face where it picks up the round out of the magazine which can only reduce feeding reliability. Potentially reducing feeding reliability while "solving" a non-issue does not sound like the best idea to me. But to each their own.

My initial reaction was the same as yours when I first ran across this mod a few years ago.

I was wrong. Smaller cases sit higher in the magazine than .45s and so there is no compromise of feeding reliability.

In fact, I run a 9x23 that his this mod and it has been a non-issue.

As I said before, this mod is meant to squeeze every last ounce of accuracy potential out of the pistol and is mostly favored by competitive bullseye shooters. For minimalists it's a waste of money.

Edited April 20, 2016 by Steve in Allentown PA