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Getting SA pull down


MilkMyDuds

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As a quantification, I've found that you can dip to as low as 1# 10oz. to 1# 12oz. SA and reliably light off Federal MATCH primers. So do any mod you want, down to that number, and you'll have no issue with Fed MATCH primers.

As for the T3; did you use a sharpie and only take off the ink every time? If you watched my video, and made a pass on the T3 as hard as I did in the video, I can assure you the disco/int is ruined. You also need to function check every time you make a pass on the disco. It should easily reduce your DA pull if you work the angle.

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Have you tested this with match and non match primers thus the emphasis on match? From everything I've read they have the same cup the match are just made by the experienced people at the plant.

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As a quantification, I've found that you can dip to as low as 1# 10oz. to 1# 12oz. SA and reliably light off Federal MATCH primers. So do any mod you want, down to that number, and you'll have no issue with Fed MATCH primers.

As for the T3; did you use a sharpie and only take off the ink every time? If you watched my video, and made a pass on the T3 as hard as I did in the video, I can assure you the disco/int is ruined. You also need to function check every time you make a pass on the disco. It should easily reduce your DA pull if you work the angle.

Before I did anything to the T3 disco, I put it on and neither SA nor DA would fall. Then I did minimal removal, barely removed the sharpie mark, still neither SA nor DA would fall. I then did a bit more... so on. I did about 5 rounds of that, and still neither SA nor DA would fall. At that point, I realized the T3 disco is probably already ruined, or, maybe I have not removed enough material?

I guess the key piece missing is, what behaviors characterize not enough material removed, and what would indicate too much have been removed?

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Also I could be wrong but I would think if the hammer isn't dropping you would need to remove more material. I think the more material you remove, it will lengthen the SA pre-travel. So if you remove a lot it will be the same as stock.

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When I fit my T3, I removed material until hammer fell in DA. In SA the hammer fell half way at that point so I slightly filled the top of the wing.

That would mean I have not removed enough materials, because neither DA nor SA hammer has ever fallen.
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When I fit my T3, I removed material until hammer fell in DA. In SA the hammer fell half way at that point so I slightly filled the top of the wing.

That would mean I have not removed enough materials, because neither DA nor SA hammer has ever fallen.
How does the new T3 wedge part look now compared to the stock interrupter? Still a lot thicker?
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When I fit my T3, I removed material until hammer fell in DA. In SA the hammer fell half way at that point so I slightly filled the top of the wing.

That would mean I have not removed enough materials, because neither DA nor SA hammer has ever fallen.
How does the new T3 wedge part look now compared to the stock interrupter? Still a lot thicker?
Yes, at least 30% thicker.
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I like to know how many coils can a 14# be trimmed and still be reliable for all primmers

Mj

I cut ONE (1) full coil and the pencil launch test showed a huge drop in da distance. Would not set off S&B primers. But the DA pull did drop! I didn't mess with reducing the firing pin return (EG light) by clipping coils. That might have helped. For normal primers (not hard wolf / tula) I think the 13# or EG light with upgraded hammer and extended FP are as low as you can go. At least, when I went lighter....it went click.

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I like to know how many coils can a 14# be trimmed and still be reliable for all primmers

Mj

I cut ONE (1) full coil and the pencil launch test showed a huge drop in da distance. Would not set off S&B primers. But the DA pull did drop! I didn't mess with reducing the firing pin return (EG light) by clipping coils. That might have helped. For normal primers (not hard wolf / tula) I think the 13# or EG light with upgraded hammer and extended FP are as low as you can go. At least, when I went lighter....it went click.
Did you measured the DA with the 14# trimmed ?

Mj

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6 1/2 # give or take . I use the old school method of hanging weight on the trigger until it goes. The numbers aren't as clean as a digital gauge!

Oddly, the 15# with 2 full coils cut gave the same result, but felt smoother with less stack.

Springs are cheap.

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After reading this thread I decided to swap my trs to the factory since some report it's lighter than the cgw. Well my da went up almost .5 lbs with the factory spring so back went in the cgw. Currently I'm at 5.75 da just under 2 sa

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After reading this thread I decided to swap my trs to the factory since some report it's lighter than the cgw. Well my da went up almost .5 lbs with the factory spring so back went in the cgw. Currently I'm at 5.75 da just under 2 sa

That's pretty impressive on the tanfo side. Getting close to shadow territory. What mods?

Edited by TJART
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After reading this thread I decided to swap my trs to the factory since some report it's lighter than the cgw. Well my da went up almost .5 lbs with the factory spring so back went in the cgw. Currently I'm at 5.75 da just under 2 sa

That's super impressive! I have no idea how you did it either! Care to share for us fumblers to follow in your footsteps?

Please

Edited by johnbu
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A few have been asking me how my S2 is set up so here you go. CAUTION (these results have worked for me but doesn't mean every other S2 will have the same result)

Before i got my eaa i was a huge cz fan and having done 8 cz trigger jobs and seeing how they operate it caused me to really break down how the stock 2 works. it was bugging me how massive the firing pin spring is when a cz only has about a 1/2 in spring. So what i did was drop the henning fp since its so light and went with the factory FP. I use the FP springs that come with the wolf recoil springs and in this case i cut the spring so that there are only about 4 coils past the tip of the FP once installed (just pulled the pin its 3). This will allow for a lighter hammer spring.

I think took my Wolf 13lb hammer spring and started cutting coils until i could no longer fire off cci primers in DA. I then set that spring aside. I took another and cut it to the same length minus 1 more coil. I repeated that until winchester primers werent 100%. Once i found that wall i cut the original hammer spring that i set up just below the cci primer wall and cut it down to the length of the winchester test length plus 1/4 coil.

I use federal primers and never have ignition issues.

Equipment:

cgw RP-TRS (.5lb less than factory)

CGW Canick trigger pin

cgw RP-FPS on the strut (heavily smoothed/polished strut. Mine had tooling ridges on it)

1 piece sear

cz sear spring

factory hammer (polished / shaped hammer hooks)

factory disco

extended FPB (due to the fact that i used the henning IV FP which would't firing primers in this config do to being to light)

factory FP with Cut wolf FP spring

Cut 13lb Wolf hammer spring

tested my trigger pull again this morning

3 pulls - 5.5 ish DA / Just above/just below 2lb line ( i have a non digital scale)

I'd like to get my hands on some Wolf 14lb hammer springs to test.

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I've made it down to just under 5.5 DA, and just over 2.5 SA, and it sets off Winchester primers 100%, so I guess this is another option. (havnt tried cci) I think you could get the sa lower with a little more stoning of the angle of the sear, but I'm happy the way it is for now.

Set Up:

EG trigger

Titan hammer

Cgw trigger pin

EG light hammer and fp spring uncut

Cgw rp fps for the plunger

Cz sear spring

1 piece sear

Extended fpb

Henning gen 3 fp

Factory trs (i found it lighter than the Cgw rp one)

Fitted Cgw T3 disco

Extensive polishing

Light slide glide (i think it may effect the da a bit)

Edited by EngineerEli
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Got inspired and fiddled with parts today.

cgw reduced power trigger return spring.

While held with a slave pin, I bent it back some to take out some force

Cgw CZ sear spring

14#wolf hammer spring with 2 full coils cut from one end

Wolf FP return spring with coils cut so that there were 7 coils above the tip of the firing pin

EG xtreme sear, titan hammer and firing pin

Full polish

Cgw T3 disco

6# 9oz Da

2# even SA

I use the OLD OLD school method of hanging weight from the trigger and slowly picking it up. The DA stack gives a hold that may make it artificially high (?) Dunno.

Using my pencil test, it launched them just shy of where the 13#wolf did, but with less stacking. Of note, clipping 20 FP return spring coils raised the pencil launch about 5-6". Going from 10 above the FP tip to only 7 raised it 1 1/2 more. Those are eyeball numbers, I forgot to lay a tape on the marks.

The 15# with 2 coils cut is about 2-3" higher still, but with 10 FP return spring coils above the tip of the fp. I didn't feel like changing springs again to mark it.

I am surprised the SA dropped to 2# even and the DA is still 6 1/2#. I even pulled the trigger bow and polished the interface where the T3 is held with no difference. Still, it feels great.

Thanks for inspiring me guys.

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The stacking in da will skew your results if you don't make a clean steady pull with the scale.

As far as cutting coils off the fp spring I forgot to mention to yall that it has to be tuned to the hammer spring weight. If not and the hammer is to strong it will push the fp so far forward that it will get stuck while dry firing.

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