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Getting SA pull down


MilkMyDuds

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The stacking in da will skew your results if you don't make a clean steady pull with the scale.

As far as cutting coils off the fp spring I forgot to mention to yall that it has to be tuned to the hammer spring weight. If not and the hammer is to strong it will push the fp so far forward that it will get stuck while dry firing.

Excellent point! I proved that when increasing hammer springs to set of Wolf Primers that are apparently made from sheets of armor plate !

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If you decrease the angle of the t3, you won't stack the DA.

You mean the transition angle from the "top" portion that includes the mounting hole to the "nose" portion?

Aqua portion

78e022b3-d49a-4ddc-94ff-810ad622f84c_zps

red for SA

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After a Match yesterday my brand new Tanfo with a 13# HS went from 7# 11oz to a 6# 9oz

I guess we just have to shoot the thing LOL

Mj

I took mine to 2 live fire sessions so far. After 600 rounds, DA went from 7# 12oz to 6# 4oz now. SA stays the same at 2# 10oz. I am already very happy with how the trigger is, and I cannot imagine how nice it would feel when DA is only 5# and SA 1.5#.

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I'm actually going to do an experiment with the factory disco. I'm going to use silver solder which is stronger than regular solder and try to build up the factory wedge. Then I can fit it just like a t3 and not have to pay the 40 bucks for both of my stock 2s

Edited by vixty
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If you decrease the angle of the t3, you won't stack the DA.

You mean the transition angle from the "top" portion that includes the mounting hole to the "nose" portion?
Aqua portion

78e022b3-d49a-4ddc-94ff-810ad622f84c_zps

red for SA

So to relieve the angle, should I remove material on the (aqua colored) portion by the wing?

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If you decrease the angle of the t3, you won't stack the DA.

You mean the transition angle from the "top" portion that includes the mounting hole to the "nose" portion?
Aqua portion

78e022b3-d49a-4ddc-94ff-810ad622f84c_zps

red for SA

So to relieve the angle, should I remove material on the (aqua colored) portion by the wing?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SK63PcWQjlM

Edited by TJART
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As a quantification, I've found that you can dip to as low as 1# 10oz. to 1# 12oz. SA and reliably light off Federal MATCH primers. So do any mod you want, down to that number, and you'll have no issue with Fed MATCH primers.

As for the T3; did you use a sharpie and only take off the ink every time? If you watched my video, and made a pass on the T3 as hard as I did in the video, I can assure you the disco/int is ruined. You also need to function check every time you make a pass on the disco. It should easily reduce your DA pull if you work the angle.

Before I did anything to the T3 disco, I put it on and neither SA nor DA would fall. Then I did minimal removal, barely removed the sharpie mark, still neither SA nor DA would fall. I then did a bit more... so on. I did about 5 rounds of that, and still neither SA nor DA would fall. At that point, I realized the T3 disco is probably already ruined, or, maybe I have not removed enough material?

I guess the key piece missing is, what behaviors characterize not enough material removed, and what would indicate too much have been removed?

I tried PM'ing you, but if you're still having this problem, do the following - remove some material from the wing of the disco, as it is not allowing the trigger bar to slip.

CZframerepair158_zpswatl43jq.jpg

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TJART, thanks a ton for reaching out to help.

I will try that once I get a chance. I am pretty much done tickering with my Stock 2 right now. Just started doing the same work on Limited Pro. This will be very help.

I ended up not running the T3 disco, just using the factory interrupter. I am pretty happy with the 6 lbs 5 oz DA and 2 lbs 10 oz SA. Although pre-travels are still there, I think over time I can master them via training.

Thanks again.

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TJART, thanks a ton for reaching out to help.

I will try that once I get a chance. I am pretty much done tickering with my Stock 2 right now. Just started doing the same work on Limited Pro. This will be very help.

I ended up not running the T3 disco, just using the factory interrupter. I am pretty happy with the 6 lbs 5 oz DA and 2 lbs 10 oz SA. Although pre-travels are still there, I think over time I can master them via training.

Thanks again.

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. You should just give it a shot and make sure it functions. I've run across a few stocks w xtreme parts, specifically w a titan hammer, that are needing wing adjustments.

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As a quantification, I've found that you can dip to as low as 1# 10oz. to 1# 12oz. SA and reliably light off Federal MATCH primers. So do any mod you want, down to that number, and you'll have no issue with Fed MATCH primers.

As for the T3; did you use a sharpie and only take off the ink every time? If you watched my video, and made a pass on the T3 as hard as I did in the video, I can assure you the disco/int is ruined. You also need to function check every time you make a pass on the disco. It should easily reduce your DA pull if you work the angle.

Before I did anything to the T3 disco, I put it on and neither SA nor DA would fall. Then I did minimal removal, barely removed the sharpie mark, still neither SA nor DA would fall. I then did a bit more... so on. I did about 5 rounds of that, and still neither SA nor DA would fall. At that point, I realized the T3 disco is probably already ruined, or, maybe I have not removed enough material?

I guess the key piece missing is, what behaviors characterize not enough material removed, and what would indicate too much have been removed?

I tried PM'ing you, but if you're still having this problem, do the following - remove some material from the wing of the disco, as it is not allowing the trigger bar to slip.

CZframerepair158_zpswatl43jq.jpg

I'm going to attempt to fit a T3 with a Titan hammer. Before I do any fitting, what should I see happening with the oversize T3 installed?

The double action should function normally? If not, fit the wing as shown above?

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As a quantification, I've found that you can dip to as low as 1# 10oz. to 1# 12oz. SA and reliably light off Federal MATCH primers. So do any mod you want, down to that number, and you'll have no issue with Fed MATCH primers.

As for the T3; did you use a sharpie and only take off the ink every time? If you watched my video, and made a pass on the T3 as hard as I did in the video, I can assure you the disco/int is ruined. You also need to function check every time you make a pass on the disco. It should easily reduce your DA pull if you work the angle.

Before I did anything to the T3 disco, I put it on and neither SA nor DA would fall. Then I did minimal removal, barely removed the sharpie mark, still neither SA nor DA would fall. I then did a bit more... so on. I did about 5 rounds of that, and still neither SA nor DA would fall. At that point, I realized the T3 disco is probably already ruined, or, maybe I have not removed enough material?

I guess the key piece missing is, what behaviors characterize not enough material removed, and what would indicate too much have been removed?

I tried PM'ing you, but if you're still having this problem, do the following - remove some material from the wing of the disco, as it is not allowing the trigger bar to slip.

CZframerepair158_zpswatl43jq.jpg

I'm going to attempt to fit a T3 with a Titan hammer. Before I do any fitting, what should I see happening with the oversize T3 installed?

The double action should function normally? If not, fit the wing as shown above?

If DA won't break, hit the wing. Very carefully, lol.

Keep hitting the inner disco area if no reset.

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As a quantification, I've found that you can dip to as low as 1# 10oz. to 1# 12oz. SA and reliably light off Federal MATCH primers. So do any mod you want, down to that number, and you'll have no issue with Fed MATCH primers.

As for the T3; did you use a sharpie and only take off the ink every time? If you watched my video, and made a pass on the T3 as hard as I did in the video, I can assure you the disco/int is ruined. You also need to function check every time you make a pass on the disco. It should easily reduce your DA pull if you work the angle.

Before I did anything to the T3 disco, I put it on and neither SA nor DA would fall. Then I did minimal removal, barely removed the sharpie mark, still neither SA nor DA would fall. I then did a bit more... so on. I did about 5 rounds of that, and still neither SA nor DA would fall. At that point, I realized the T3 disco is probably already ruined, or, maybe I have not removed enough material?

I guess the key piece missing is, what behaviors characterize not enough material removed, and what would indicate too much have been removed?

I tried PM'ing you, but if you're still having this problem, do the following - remove some material from the wing of the disco, as it is not allowing the trigger bar to slip.

CZframerepair158_zpswatl43jq.jpg

I'm going to attempt to fit a T3 with a Titan hammer. Before I do any fitting, what should I see happening with the oversize T3 installed?

The double action should function normally? If not, fit the wing as shown above?

If DA won't break, hit the wing. Very carefully, lol.

Keep hitting the inner disco area if no reset.

Thanks for the help. DA wouldn't drop on my initial install.

I carefully broke the edge on wing with a small file. Third test fit it was good to go. DA dropped and SA reset. I did not have to touch the inner area at all. Next step is to test fire.

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