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Getting SA pull down


MilkMyDuds

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I am able to achieve 7 lbs DA and 3 lbs 12 oz SA on my Stock 2. Here are the parts I have put in:

1. Titan hammer

2. Xtreme hammer spring (light)

3. Henning 18 lbs trigger bar plunger spring

4. Xtreme FP spring (light)

5. Woff 9 lbs recoil spring

6. Xtreme firing pin

7. Henning guide rod

I have tried CGW reduced power TRS but I found it actually adds 0.5# to DA and did nothing to SA.

Everything else is stock, and all contact areas polished to stainless look following the 101 guide by atlas.

What did I miss here?

Do I need to go crazy on a 4th round polishing?

Should I try T3 disco? That should only help pre-travel with no effect on trigger pulls, correct?

I am trying to achieve 6 lbs DA and 3 lbs SA, which should not be too difficult based on what others have reported here.

The gun runs great 100% ignition with WSP for a few hundred rounds. It's just the trigger... Maybe I should just stop messing with the trigger and just focusing on shooting it?

Edited by MilkMyDuds
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Do you have a 1 or 2 piece Sear ??

Get the 1 piece with a CZ sear spring

The 2 piece Sear adds a extra spring ( ounces of added weight )

Thanks. I am currently using the factory 2-piece sear and spring.

Is this the right CZ sear spring to get? https://cajungunworks.com/product/12-sear-spring/

Is this the right 1 piece sear for Tanfo I should get? http://benstoegerproshop.com/eaa-tanfoglio-witness-one-1-piece-sear-9-1/

Thanks again.

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put a cz Reduced firing pin spring on the plunger and polish the crap out of it. Mine had ridges on it so i actually had to use an emory wheel on my dremel to remove the ridges. I polished until it felt smooth to me when compressing. The cz RP FP spring will bring DA down a good amount i believe.

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Do you have a 1 or 2 piece Sear ??

Get the 1 piece with a CZ sear spring

The 2 piece Sear adds a extra spring ( ounces of added weight )

Thanks. I am currently using the factory 2-piece sear and spring.

Is this the right CZ sear spring to get? https://cajungunworks.com/product/12-sear-spring/

Is this the right 1 piece sear for Tanfo I should get? http://benstoegerproshop.com/eaa-tanfoglio-witness-one-1-piece-sear-9-1/

Thanks again.

Yes.....The 1 Piece Sear shows out of Stock

Try Patriot Defense....they have the Xtreme 1 Piece that is great too

The CZ Sear Spring get it where shipping is less expensive

Mj

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put a cz Reduced firing pin spring on the plunger and polish the crap out of it. Mine had ridges on it so i actually had to use an emory wheel on my dremel to remove the ridges. I polished until it felt smooth to me when compressing. The cz RP FP spring will bring DA down a good amount i believe.

What's the difference between the CZ reduced power FP spring and the Henning plunger spring? Henning is rated 18# I think it is light enough...

http://henningshop.com/products/copy-of-tanfoglio-trigger-plunger-springs-h037

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put a cz Reduced firing pin spring on the plunger and polish the crap out of it. Mine had ridges on it so i actually had to use an emory wheel on my dremel to remove the ridges. I polished until it felt smooth to me when compressing. The cz RP FP spring will bring DA down a good amount i believe.

What's the difference between the CZ reduced power FP spring and the Henning plunger spring? Henning is rated 18# I think it is light enough...

http://henningshop.com/products/copy-of-tanfoglio-trigger-plunger-springs-h037

For that price I would get the whole Xtreme Plunger Assy ( Patriot Defense has it ) and polish and trimmed as needed

Better yet..... buy a FP Spring from Cajun like MilkMyDuds says. Look around your tool box.....you will have a better spring to be used

Mj

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Did you polish the sear and sear cage where the parts rub? Also all the pins? Sear, hammer strut and disco pin including their holes? Polished the actual (hammer and plinger) springs inside and out? You might get an oz or two from that. ...maybe.

The cz sear spring does reduce it some (oz or so). You could fool around with various lubricants too. Might creep down towards 6da with an oz here and there. But it won't be easy !

But honestly....aside from dry fire, can you really tell the difference between 7 / 3.5 and 6 / 3.0? And for the record, my guns are setup very similarly to yours and they are 7# / 3 (just over). Good enough for my low skill level at least.

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As the title says, I am only chasing SA now. I am quite happy with 7 lbs DA. However, coming from consistent 3 lbs APEX trigger, I find 3 lbs 12 oz pretty sucky, given 95% of the shots will be affected. I just want to get the SA to be at least as decent as most polymer guns.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

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The CZ RP FPS is no 18lbs. Some people use the spring from inside the click pens without issues but I wasn't the ballsy.

What kind of primers are you trying to pop off?

I put on the BIC click pen spring and measured the triggers. Surprisingly, no difference for me.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

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put the t3 in

Trying that too. Q - when I put the T3 in, the sear block won't even sit deep enough for the safety pin holes to fully align. I know there are fitting work you posted fir the wings and angles. Is there also need to remove material from the back of the disco to make it slimmer? I have already polished the areas where sear touches the back of the disco.
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OK. I got my Limited Pro today. Out of box, the trigger is amazing... 3 lbs 15 oz SA and 9 lbs 5 oz DA.

I took the 1 piece sear in Limited Pro and put it in the Stock 2, well, at least now the T3 disco would allow the safety to be installed and the safety actually works when installed - the holes do align now. DA won't fall but that's expected, obviously I need to fit the T3 disco but it's at least in the gun.

Looking back at my problems, I think the 2-piece sear on the Stock 2 is a major culprit. Will do more testing with the 1 piece sear later.

Right now, I am comparing the 3 different disconnector...

The Stock 2 factory is 1-wing, and the wing is on the left.

The T3 disco is 1-wing, but the wings is on the right.

The Limited Pro factory disco is 2-wing.

Does anyone know why the difference? Could the T3 disco with the wing to the right ever going to work with the Stock 2 2-piece sear (because the factory disco has the wing on the left)?

discos1_zpsit56yzdu.jpg

LimitedProDisco_zpsfb0jdeip.jpg

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and make your innards look like this. Pay special attention to the hammer where it rides in the frame. (CZ, but only pic I had).

20160225_201854_zpswbonldbk.jpg

what a nice polish work back there! I am amazed. I am going to go back to do more polishing now. :goof:

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and make your innards look like this. Pay special attention to the hammer where it rides in the frame. (CZ, but only pic I had).

20160225_201854_zpswbonldbk.jpg

I'd think this is the chrome surfaced extreme parts! Looks like it's time to go back to work and polish harder!

Edited by MilkMyDuds
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As I understand it....

- Tanfo disco with wing on the left only is designed for the two piece sear so the leg for the safety lifter leg doesn't get in the way of the disco.

- The Tanfo two sided one is used with the 1 piece sear where there is no sear lifter leg to worry about.

- The CGW right side wing disco works with the 1 piece sear where there is no safety lifter leg to worry about, but you can remove material from the top of the wing to make clearance for the safety lifter leg. The front underside surfaces are really the only active surfaces on the wing during DA.

You may need to swap over the FPB from the limited pro for it to remain funcitional with the 1 piece sear. If you're using one of Eric's hammers you may need an even more extended one... Just test it.

OK. I got my Limited Pro today. Out of box, the trigger is amazing... 3 lbs 15 oz SA and 9 lbs 5 oz DA.

I took the 1 piece sear in Limited Pro and put it in the Stock 2, well, at least now the T3 disco would allow the safety to be installed and the safety actually works when installed - the holes do align now. DA won't fall but that's expected, obviously I need to fit the T3 disco but it's at least in the gun.

Looking back at my problems, I think the 2-piece sear on the Stock 2 is a major culprit. Will do more testing with the 1 piece sear later.

Right now, I am comparing the 3 different disconnector...

The Stock 2 factory is 1-wing, and the wing is on the left.

The T3 disco is 1-wing, but the wings is on the right.

The Limited Pro factory disco is 2-wing.

Does anyone know why the difference? Could the T3 disco with the wing to the right ever going to work with the Stock 2 2-piece sear (because the factory disco has the wing on the left)?

Edited by EngineerEli
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You may need to swap over the FPB from the limited pro for it to remain funcitional with the 1 piece sear. If you're using one of Eric's hammers you may need an even more extended one... Just test it.

Who has the "even more extended" version?

Just tested mine and the edge of the GPB that stops the, firing pin is worn down allowing the pin to get past.

On topic, I Da/sa converted my match elite. Spare stock 2 hammer, Xtreme disco, one piece sear, 13#wolf spring, EG FP return spring and it already had full polish. It tested 6# 4oz DA and 2.0SA. My competition guns with the same springs and better polish are over 7# da and 3.0 sa. I don't get it! And to top it off, it has as short of a reset as the T3 equipped S2!

Edited by johnbu
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I received the 1 piece sear and reduced power sear spring.

Did 3rd round polishing while installing them. Polished the new sear piece and all the holes too. 600 grit, 1500 grit and 2000 grit.

Also tried to fit the T3 disco for the 2nd time following the youtube video. Unfortunately from the time no material was removed to the point where a lot of material has been removed, hammer would not fall in neither DA nor SA. Not clear I went past or not enough. Comparing mine to the youtube video, I have about the same amount of materials removed, and I know the guy in the video said "this T3 will be ruined" in order to show the "waves" more clearly.

Anyway, I put back the factory disconnector. Now my SA went down to 2 lbs 11 oz - very nice!

So it looks like the 1 piece sear made a huge difference.

IMG_20160319_104250_zpsflqwh81b.jpg

However, my DA is still 7 lbs 11 oz range. I am not sure how to reduce DA pull now. It actually went up from barely 7 lbs to 7 lbs 11 oz after I put in the 1 piece sear.

IMG_20160319_104320_zpsjvjoykl3.jpg

One thing I found is that using the factory trigger return spring reduces the SA weight by 5 oz over the CGW reduced power trigger return spring. It does not do anything to DA it seems.

Here is what I have in the gun currently:

1. Titan hammer

2. 1 piece sear

3. CGW reduced power sear spring

4. Xtreme hammer spring light (13.8lbs)

5. Xtreme firing pin spring light

6. Xtreme firing pin safety

7. Xtreme firing pin safety spring

8. Canik trigger pin

9. factory trigger return spring

10. BIC click pen spring as trigger plunger spring

11. Woff 9lbs recoil spring

12. Henning guide rod

13. Xtreme firing pin

Any ideas how to make DA pull below 7lbs? 6 lbs would be my goal but 6.5 lbs would be totally acceptable too!

Thanks.

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There are some things. Well worn Wolff 13# hammer spring. EG light one coil cut, 14# hammer spring with a full coil cut off, or wolff 15# spring with 2 full coils cut off. Buy several hammer springs in each poundage snip partial coils until you get your DA where you want it. Do a pencil launch test after each change, run 100 rounds in DA to verify it will fire. Record results, snip a bit more and repeat until it won't tun reliably. Then make a spring with less cut off.

Are you ONLY running Federal primers? With recent messing around, I've seen 6 1/2 pounds with modified 14# and 15# springs. But! They won't reliably set off my S&B primers and I can only assUme the federal match primers will go off.

Do keep in mind, I run about the same pull force you are at so the gun will be reliable with the primers I have. So, I really don't know how well those modified springs will run or last, etc. There are guys here that do run them... check with them on the pros and cons they have found.

Edited by johnbu
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There are some things. Well worn Wolff 13# hammer spring. EG light one coil cut, 14# hammer spring with a full coil cut off, or wolff 15# spring with 2 full coils cut off. Buy several hammer springs in each poundage snip partial coils until you get your DA where you want it. Do a pencil launch test after each change, run 100 rounds in DA to verify it will fire. Record results, snip a bit more and repeat until it won't tun reliably. Then make a spring with less cut off.

Are you ONLY running Federal primers? With recent messing around, I've seen 6 1/2 pounds with modified 14# and 15# springs. But! They won't reliably set off my S&B primers and I can only assUme the federal match primers will go off.

Do keep in mind, I run about the same pull force you are at so the gun will be reliable with the primers I have. So, I really don't know how well those modified springs will run or last, etc. There are guys here that do run them... check with them on the pros and cons they have found.

Thanks for the suggestions. I do not mind running Federal primers exclusively. Have 20k stocked up, but I usually use WSP. Last test on the range the gun ran 350 WSP with 100% ignition. Now with added 1 piece sear and reduced power sear spring, I need to test again. It does look like I could experiment with the hammer springs a bit. Thanks.
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