tanfoglio1911 Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 (edited) Ok, I just found out that the reason behind the dragging of my 2011 slide was caused by the ejector that became loose. Now I need help if I need to replace just the ejector's pin or the ejector itself. This is for 40 cal. and want to get some recommendations in terms of which brand I am going to buy. Thanks yall in advance. Edited December 17, 2015 by tanfoglio1911 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shotgunone Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 (edited) Sometime a new roll pin will tighten it up some. If it's STI you could call them and see if they would send you a new ejector and pin under their lifetime warranty. If so you will need a left twist drill to drill the notch in the ejector. Also might want to see why it was loose. Do you have magazines hitting it when you insert them? Edited December 17, 2015 by shotgunone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Hello: Is the pin still in there or is the leg broken on the ejector? Don't drill the new ejector if you need one. I use a die grinder to grind a groove in the ejector leg. I have have seen a couple of frames that were messed up with a left hand twist drill bit. I also had to remove a broken drill bit as well. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanfoglio1911 Posted December 17, 2015 Author Share Posted December 17, 2015 Sometime a new roll pin will tighten it up some. If it's STI you could call them and see if they would send you a new ejector and pin under their lifetime warranty. If so you will need a left twist drill to drill the notch in the ejector. Also might want to see why it was loose. Do you have magazines hitting it when you insert them? I am working on the warranty at this point of time. In regards to the magazine hitting the ejector, i am not aware of.. I bought this gun used and i knew 1 of the mags is tuned but the 2 were not. I don't have any knowledge or idea yet how to change the ejector, and was thinking that the ejector pin can be easily pinch out. ThanksSent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanfoglio1911 Posted December 17, 2015 Author Share Posted December 17, 2015 Hello: Is the pin still in there or is the leg broken on the ejector? Don't drill the new ejector if you need one. I use a die grinder to grind a groove in the ejector leg. I have have seen a couple of frames that were messed up with a left hand twist drill bit. I also had to remove a broken drill bit as well. Thanks, EricThe pin and ejector are still intact and attached but wobbling. Any link is available that can help me change the ejector will be a big help. Thank youSent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Ok, I just found out that the reason behind the dragging of my 2011 slide was caused by the ejector that became loose. Now I need help if I need to replace just the ejector's pin or the ejector itself. This is for 40 cal. and want to get some recommendations in terms of which brand I am going to buy. Thanks yall in advance. If you can take the ejector off the gun, and nothing is broke, just squeeze one or both legs (the round pins on the bottom of the ejector that go in the holes in the frame) in a vise or gently peen them with a hammer. This will tighten the fit in the frame and solve your problem. Loctite and tap the ejector back in the frame and install the pin. Go slow, if you squeeze or tap too much, it will be difficult to get the ejector back in the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanfoglio1911 Posted December 17, 2015 Author Share Posted December 17, 2015 Ok, I just found out that the reason behind the dragging of my 2011 slide was caused by the ejector that became loose. Now I need help if I need to replace just the ejector's pin or the ejector itself. This is for 40 cal. and want to get some recommendations in terms of which brand I am going to buy. Thanks yall in advance. If you can take the ejector off the gun, and nothing is broke, just squeeze one or both legs (the round pins on the bottom of the ejector that go in the holes in the frame) in a vise or gently peen them with a hammer. This will tighten the fit in the frame and solve your problem. Loctite and tap the ejector back in the frame and install the pin. Go slow, if you squeeze or tap too much, it will be difficult to get the ejector back in the frame. So I can remove the ejector with the pin still in the hole? If I will apply loctite, which part of the ejector it should cover? Thank youSent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Ok, I just found out that the reason behind the dragging of my 2011 slide was caused by the ejector that became loose. Now I need help if I need to replace just the ejector's pin or the ejector itself. This is for 40 cal. and want to get some recommendations in terms of which brand I am going to buy. Thanks yall in advance. If you can take the ejector off the gun, and nothing is broke, just squeeze one or both legs (the round pins on the bottom of the ejector that go in the holes in the frame) in a vise or gently peen them with a hammer. This will tighten the fit in the frame and solve your problem. Loctite and tap the ejector back in the frame and install the pin. Go slow, if you squeeze or tap too much, it will be difficult to get the ejector back in the frame. So I can remove the ejector with the pin still in the hole? If I will apply loctite, which part of the ejector it should cover? Thank youSent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk No. There is a 3/32 pin in the frame that holds the ejector to the frame. if you remove the slide and look at the frame from the side, you will see the pin that holds the ejector in, in the groove that the slide rides in just below the ejector. This pin needs to be removed. Then the ejector will lift out if its as loose as you describe. When the ejector is removed from the frame, you will see what looks like two pins extending from the bottom of the ejector. These are the "legs" I refer to above. Once you have the ejector removed, you can see the relief ground in the front leg for the pin that AirCooled Racer is referring to. If you install a new ejector, you will have cut this groove as described above by AR, as the exact position varies from gun to gun. With your current knowledge of 1911/2011's, I'd recommend you pursue the warranty and not try to fix it yourself. If you want to continue, google a blueprint for a 1911. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanfoglio1911 Posted December 17, 2015 Author Share Posted December 17, 2015 (edited) Ok, I just found out that the reason behind the dragging of my 2011 slide was caused by the ejector that became loose. Now I need help if I need to replace just the ejector's pin or the ejector itself. This is for 40 cal. and want to get some recommendations in terms of which brand I am going to buy. Thanks yall in advance. If you can take the ejector off the gun, and nothing is broke, just squeeze one or both legs (the round pins on the bottom of the ejector that go in the holes in the frame) in a vise or gently peen them with a hammer. This will tighten the fit in the frame and solve your problem. Loctite and tap the ejector back in the frame and install the pin. Go slow, if you squeeze or tap too much, it will be difficult to get the ejector back in the frame. So I can remove the ejector with the pin still in the hole? If I will apply loctite, which part of the ejector it should cover? Thank youSent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk No. There is a 3/32 pin in the frame that holds the ejector to the frame. if you remove the slide and look at the frame from the side, you will see the pin that holds the ejector in, in the groove that the slide rides in just below the ejector. This pin needs to be removed. Then the ejector will lift out if its as loose as you describe. When the ejector is removed from the frame, you will see what looks like two pins extending from the bottom of the ejector. These are the "legs" I refer to above. Once you have the ejector removed, you can see the relief ground in the front leg for the pin that AirCooled Racer is referring to. If you install a new ejector, you will have cut this groove as described above by AR, as the exact position varies from gun to gun. With your current knowledge of 1911/2011's, I'd recommend you pursue the warranty and not try to fix it yourself. If you want to continue, google a blueprint for a 1911. Thank you. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk When taking the pin out, will it be from right to left or the opposite? Thanks again Edited December 17, 2015 by tanfoglio1911 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Ok, I just found out that the reason behind the dragging of my 2011 slide was caused by the ejector that became loose. Now I need help if I need to replace just the ejector's pin or the ejector itself. This is for 40 cal. and want to get some recommendations in terms of which brand I am going to buy. Thanks yall in advance. If you can take the ejector off the gun, and nothing is broke, just squeeze one or both legs (the round pins on the bottom of the ejector that go in the holes in the frame) in a vise or gently peen them with a hammer. This will tighten the fit in the frame and solve your problem. Loctite and tap the ejector back in the frame and install the pin. Go slow, if you squeeze or tap too much, it will be difficult to get the ejector back in the frame. So I can remove the ejector with the pin still in the hole? If I will apply loctite, which part of the ejector it should cover? Thank youSent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk If you remove the ejector, put the Loctite on the legs. Looking at a 1911 blueprint, which can be Googled, will explain a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shotgunone Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 With the slide off. Insert a magazine and push up firmly on the magazine to see if the magazine is contacting the ejector. It's pretty easy to see. If it is or you install a new eject you need to check this anyway. Sometimes when you slam the mag home it will hit the bottom of the ejector. It can easily put a ding or slightly bend in the roll pin which is hollow causing the ejector to be a little loose. If there is just a slight wobble in the ejector a new roll pin may fix it. If the magazine is able to hit the ejector you have a couple of options. Dawson makes a mag release that prevents over insertion of the magazine. Or you can file the underside of the ejector until you get clearance. Or you can file the back of the magazine on the one side under the ejector. Be careful as you only need to remove a couple of thousands to create the clearance if the mag is hitting the ejector. A gunsmith is lots cheaper than messing up the frame and/or a new ejector. I wouldn't recommend sending this to STI because it may take them months to get your gun fixed and returned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanfoglio1911 Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 Ejector is still intact and I didn't see any dings or damaged on it. Maybe I will just give it try to remove the pin and see if it has worn out but if not, I will follow the advise of Shadow to squeeze the legs and apply Loctite. Which Loctite is good to use, the blue or the red? Thanks to everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caz41 Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Watch some YouTube videos, visual aid helps greatly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Ejector is still intact and I didn't see any dings or damaged on it. Maybe I will just give it try to remove the pin and see if it has worn out but if not, I will follow the advise of Shadow to squeeze the legs and apply Loctite. Which Loctite is good to use, the blue or the red? Thanks to everyone. Either will work. Again, go slow with the squeezing, a little at a time until it creates a tight fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanfoglio1911 Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 Ejector is still intact and I didn't see any dings or damaged on it. Maybe I will just give it try to remove the pin and see if it has worn out but if not, I will follow the advise of Shadow to squeeze the legs and apply Loctite. Which Loctite is good to use, the blue or the red? Thanks to everyone. Either will work. Again, go slow with the squeezing, a little at a time until it creates a tight fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzt Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 (edited) If it were me, I'd not follow the advice above. It wobbles because the holes in the frame are too large or the legs have too small an OD. If you try to peen and locktite, you will not be certain of getting it back in the correct alingment. Order a Brazos Custom tuned ejector for 40sw and a new pin. http://www.1911store.com/ejector-bcg-pro-series-performance-tuned.aspxInstall as suggested above. Edited December 19, 2015 by zzt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BASE772 Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 STI just squeezes the pins in a vise. Talked to them a long time ago about this. I've done it on three different 1911/2011's since then, works great. Just go a little at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 It's par for the course to pull the ejector, Loctite the legs, and repin it. It's been working for gunsmiths for 50+ years without issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 STI just squeezes the pins in a vise. Talked to them a long time ago about this. I've done it on three different 1911/2011's since then, works great. Just go a little at a time. It's par for the course to pull the ejector, Loctite the legs, and repin it. It's been working for gunsmiths for 50+ years without issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Miles Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 STI just squeezes the pins in a vise. Talked to them a long time ago about this. I've done it on three different 1911/2011's since then, works great. Just go a little at a time. Be REAL careful doing this. If you ever break the ejector off of that leg (chances are very slim) you will play hell getting that leg out easily. I would LocTite it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BASE772 Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 STI just squeezes the pins in a vise. Talked to them a long time ago about this. I've done it on three different 1911/2011's since then, works great. Just go a little at a time.Be REAL careful doing this. If you ever break the ejector off of that leg (chances are very slim) you will play hell getting that leg out easily. I would LocTite it. I agree 100 %. I squeeze and file down if needed where I can barely push it in with my fingers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanfoglio1911 Posted December 22, 2015 Author Share Posted December 22, 2015 STI just squeezes the pins in a vise. Talked to them a long time ago about this. I've done it on three different 1911/2011's since then, works great. Just go a little at a time.Be REAL careful doing this. If you ever break the ejector off of that leg (chances are very slim) you will play hell getting that leg out easily. I would LocTite it.I agree 100 %. I squeeze and file down if needed where I can barely push it in with my fingers.Do I need a new pin or just repin the old one? Thanks..Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanfoglio1911 Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 Pinned the two post and had able to put back the Ejector without any movement. Frame and slide glides very smoothly as it was originally. After the loctite will dry out, I will test and see if the ejector hold pretty well. So far very stable at this point. Thank you guys.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanfoglio1911 Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 Just an update, I put about 800 rounds or so and the ejector is still holding up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrPostman Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Hello: Is the pin still in there or is the leg broken on the ejector? Don't drill the new ejector if you need one. I use a die grinder to grind a groove in the ejector leg. I have have seen a couple of frames that were messed up with a left hand twist drill bit. I also had to remove a broken drill bit as well. Thanks, Eric +1. Good way to make a mess of things. Just mark the leg with the new ejector installed through the pin hole. You can use a 3/32 drill bit to just mark it or sharpie marker to see where you need to cut the notch. Cut it a tad higher than the mark so you can get a tight fit when you tap the pin in. If the pin doesn't go in with some decent taps with a hammer then pull it out and remove a little more at the bottom of the notch until the pin goes through but tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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