Gregg K Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 The poll may be different if it was restricted to those that own both. The 929 isn't much different from any of the other PC guns, they all need work to get the perfection that we like. The balance of the 929 vs an R8 would be very different, it would depend on what my use would be. I have seen the results of running a scandium frame gun long and hard and would not buy one for competition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thermobollocks Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 What's "hard" in this context? Basically 9mm loads, or 20 grains of H110? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoThG Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 What's "hard" in this context? Basically 9mm loads, or 20 grains of H110? Exactly! I'm running a TRR8 in a local steel series that has no minimum pf. All you have to do is make the steel go "ding". I'm using 38spc with a 125gr cast bullet behind 2.5gr of Trail Boss for a whopping pf of 74! I don't think the 327's frame will be stressed with that load, and that all gets shot through it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg K Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 OK, it wasn't that long or hard. A friend ran his 325 in IDPA for less than a year and the window in the frame for the hand was enlarged and the recoil shield had a ditch dug in it from the center pin going back a forth. Randy Lee advised me against a scandium frame saying that I would kill it in a year. I value his opinion when it comes to working on revolvers since he probably has seen and worked on more of them than all of us. If you have had good luck with yours that's great. A carry gun or a bedside gun would be fine with a scandium frame but for a lot of use I'll stick with a steel frame. You are free to spend your money on what ever makes you happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoThG Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 (edited) OK, it wasn't that long or hard. A friend ran his 325 in IDPA for less than a year and the window in the frame for the hand was enlarged and the recoil shield had a ditch dug in it from the center pin going back a forth. Randy Lee advised me against a scandium frame saying that I would kill it in a year. I value his opinion when it comes to working on revolvers since he probably has seen and worked on more of them than all of us. If you have had good luck with yours that's great. A carry gun or a bedside gun would be fine with a scandium frame but for a lot of use I'll stick with a steel frame. You are free to spend your money on what ever makes you happy. Randy Lee is obviously one of the "the men" when it comes to revo tuning. My 327's center pin spring is cut back to reduce friction, so it puts even less pressure on the recoil shield as the cylinder is opened and closed. It's had tens of thousands of rounds with no sign of any abnormal wear from the center pin riding on the recoil shield. Edited October 18, 2015 by CoThG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg K Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 Randy Lee is obviously one of the "the men" when it comes to revo tuning. My 327's center pin spring is cut back to reduce friction, so it puts even less pressure on the recoil shield as the cylinder is opened and closed. It's had tens of thousands of rounds with no sign of any abnormal wear from the center pin riding on the recoil shield. It would be good to know to reduce the tension on the center pin before the frame was damaged. Maybe that knowledge will help someone here to prevent the damage to their scandium frame. This type of wear can be caused by any power factor round, it's just how many times the cylinder was opened and closed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoThG Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 Randy Lee is obviously one of the "the men" when it comes to revo tuning. My 327's center pin spring is cut back to reduce friction, so it puts even less pressure on the recoil shield as the cylinder is opened and closed. It's had tens of thousands of rounds with no sign of any abnormal wear from the center pin riding on the recoil shield. It would be good to know to reduce the tension on the center pin before the frame was damaged. Maybe that knowledge will help someone here to prevent the damage to their scandium frame. This type of wear can be caused by any power factor round, it's just how many times the cylinder was opened and closed. You are correct. It has nothing to do with the number of rounds fired, just cycling the cylinder open and closed. It's simple really, just snip a few coils of the center pin spring. It still gives a nice positive lockup, but noticeably easier to open and close the cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan454 Posted October 18, 2015 Author Share Posted October 18, 2015 My 329PD had no frame issues but the crane/cylinder assembly were bent to the point it wouldn't function after about 1k rounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoThG Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 My 329PD had no frame issues but the crane/cylinder assembly were bent to the point it wouldn't function after about 1k rounds. I've read reports on the S&W forum that the 329 is not long for this Earth. when given a steady diet of 44 mag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoThG Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 (edited) There's only so much you can do with aluminum. On the center pin issue, It would probably help to radius the end a little further around. I do that on a Scotchbrite wheel with the center pin running in a cordless drill. It only takes a few seconds to round and polish it nicely. A buffing wheel with fine rouge will work too. You don't want to take too much off the center pin spring if you have a load with some recoil. In that case it could bounce the pin and unlock the cylinder. Edited October 18, 2015 by Toolguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoThG Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 (edited) There's only so much you can do with aluminum. On the center pin issue, It would probably help to radius the end a little further around. I do that on a Scotchbrite wheel with the center pin running in a cordless drill. It only takes a few seconds to round and polish it nicely. A buffing wheel with fine rouge will work too. You don't want to take too much off the center pin spring if you have a load with some recoil. In that case it could bounce the pin and unlock the cylinder. That's a good technique on the center pin. In my case, my 327 never gets anything other than bunny fart loads, so recoil induced unlocking isn't a factor, but you do make a good point if you are shooting more powerfully recoiling loads. Edited October 18, 2015 by CoThG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan454 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 (edited) My 329PD had no frame issues but the crane/cylinder assembly were bent to the point it wouldn't function after about 1k rounds. I've read reports on the S&W forum that the 329 is not long for this Earth. when given a steady diet of 44 mag. That is very true, I had probably 500 rounds of 240gr magnum factory ammo and 500 rounds of 240gr special through it before it stopped working. Those "magnum" loads were about 2/3 the power level I run in my Rugers. The 329 is an excellent gun but it was designed to be carried a lot and shot only when necessary. I got a Ruger Alaskan to take its place and that gun has been 100%. Edited October 19, 2015 by Alaskan454 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shmella Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 I have to say the .035 TK moons for 9mm are amazing. I need to get as close as I can to those for Short Colt. Whatever you do, don't base your expectations off the factory moons. I use them for Steel Challenge and that's it.I have to ask, what is it that is amazing about them compared to the factory clips? Tighter fit for the brass you have ? I can't justify spending a billion dollars on moon clips when the cheap ones go bang. I'm curious what would I benefit from switching to the more expensive clips? I took this picture a while ago when I was shooting 38 special, but it goes to show you what that cheap factory clips vs a quality clip like hearthco can do. Ok, after seeing that it makes sense to drop a few more dollars on the top notch clips. My short limited experience with the "cheap" clips for my 929 has been great. I use a mix of win FC Blazer and some other head stamps mixed in, with Revolver supply nickel plated clips and blued clips from a local company that makes the "Moon clip tool" and they all hold the brass similarly as far as how tight (or loose) they are. so far the cheap ones go bang and load fine. It surely doesnt look like the picture above. I'll post a pic when I get a chance of how the cheap ones look loaded. Thanks for the reply Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan454 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 I've wondered about the revolver supply clips, I hear they are pretty good but definitely not TK/Hearthco level stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete627 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 (edited) I have been using the revolver supply clips ... the .025 nickle plated ... for federal 38 special cases. They have been pretty good for that and are cheap enough to have enough to shoot a whole steel challenge match without having to pull out the mooner. Recently ... I have (finally) started loading short colts and there is definitely more movement with the starline brass in these clips than with federal ... but ... they work OK. I am however looking forward to starting a primary supply of the Hearthco for regular matches. I get 14 loaded clips in a CD cake box and that is enough to shoot most local matches. In the photos (starline on RS .025 nickle) I slid the clips over a plastic tube so as "not" to touch any of the case rims ... (of course ... you can only see so much with the photo). edit: sorry ... straying way off topic here ... sigh ... Edited October 19, 2015 by pete627 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan454 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 Those look pretty good for the price point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forrest Halley Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 I analyzed why my ranch 10mm clips failed and bent. The area between the inside of the space where the shell clips in and the extractor cut is where the least amount of steel is. All the ranch stuff folded here. So I shipped my cylinder to Dave Hearth and said make this area as wide and the clips as thick as possible. Dave did just that and guess what? They are still kicking... Revolver supply looks lacking in this area from what I could see. Buy once. Cry once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Pete627 - What brand and what weight are those bullets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete627 Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Pete627 - What brand and what weight are those bullets? Warren ... those are blue bullets ... 147gr .358 ... They are seated at 1.17 in the cases in those photos. http://www.thebluebullets.com/Default.asp Actually ... I have ordered them twice now and (random checked) they all weighed in at 149.5 - 150 grains ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 OK - Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan454 Posted October 20, 2015 Author Share Posted October 20, 2015 (edited) I analyzed why my ranch 10mm clips failed and bent. The area between the inside of the space where the shell clips in and the extractor cut is where the least amount of steel is. All the ranch stuff folded here. So I shipped my cylinder to Dave Hearth and said make this area as wide and the clips as thick as possible. Dave did just that and guess what? They are still kicking... Revolver supply looks lacking in this area from what I could see. Buy once. Cry once. I just sent Dave a note about clips for my Redhawk. I've consistently heard they are the best out there so it's time to try them first hand. Edited October 20, 2015 by Alaskan454 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Good call. Hearthcos are awesome, and worth every penny they cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan454 Posted October 21, 2015 Author Share Posted October 21, 2015 When he asked I send him a dozen pieces of brass I knew his stuff was going to be excellent. I don't have a loader for 45C, can they be loaded by hand or should I go ahead and order a tool? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg K Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 You will want a tool. I got rid of all my other loaders after getting one of these.. www.mooncliptool.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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