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Reversing magazine release


SV650Squid

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The staking on the frame is really tight on the retaining screw. So bad that it started to twist my screwdriver blade.

Has anyone had luck with putting the frame in a vise and using a manual impact driver? I'm figuring that the worst that can happen is I bugger the screw and have to take it to someone to drill the screw out and replace it.

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A small cold chisel to cut the staking is the usual method. On smaller or more visible areas a very fine punch can be used to slowly tease the staking away from the screw.

If you're going to try just muscling it out: Make sure the screwdriver blade fits the screw perfectly, they make gunsmith sets if you don't have one. Use a soft low-rebound mallet (nylon or leather, not plastic, brass, steel or rubber) to firmly tap on the end of the screwdriver handle as you apply steady twisting force with your hand. No hammering and no breaker bars or levers, a slip or too much force and you've buggered the frame or stripped the slot.

Protip: Go to your local Tandy store and buy a small and a large leather mallet. They are indispensable for gunsmithing, I prefer them over nylon for most jobs.

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To break mine loose I used a large, heavy screw driver. The top of the shaft was squared so I could get a wrench on it. Protected frame, locked it in vise, lots of downward pressure on the screw driver, and an 8" cresent wench on the square portion of the shaft and the stakes gave up the ghost.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally had a moment to sit down and put the frame in a vise (had to buy some padded jaws). Screwdriver bit in a ratchet makes me wonder why I was cussing so much before.

How many times do you need to repeat the lesson of "right tool for the right job?" The answer is still repeating itself at 33 years old.

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I used a large heavy duty screw driver. Where the shank joined the handle, the shank changed from round to square so a wrench could be used to apply more torque. A whole lot of downward pressure coupled with an 8" crescent wrench and it came free. If the screw driver blade twisted it is either too small or now well enough made.

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So once the magazine release is reversed, how are the right sided magazine releases and are the magazines good to go or are there modifications needed to the magazine bodies?? Kind of reminds me of working on A5 or Remy 11 shotguns.

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  • 1 year later...

I must be some kind of clutz but applying downward pressure on the screwdriver or ratchet wrench while trying to turn it has me fumbling all over the place.  No amount of me leaning my whole body weight into it and pushing into it is making this turn even a hair. Seriously, CZ, did you have to be a d--- like this and stake the screw, really?

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first off, make sure you have a screwdriver blade that is the right size. I use a Chapman Manufacturing blade, and use the mini ratchet so I can apply downward force while breaking the screw free. you can also try putting your screwdriver in the vice and putting the frame on top of it and pushing down while turning it (the right way!). 

 

 

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The screw is cut straight down, so a non-tapered bit helps a lot. The screw is also knurled, so padded needle-nose vise grips can help too.

 

 

Word of advice, that screw also keeps tension on the trigger bar spring, so check that it's tight a few times after shooting or else you'll suddenly find yourself without double action. A dab of blue loctite didn't hurt either.

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I was finally successful by using the exact size screwdriver from Chapman.  I had to ask on Facebook and someone gave me the info: the bit is .230 x .037".  THIS IS THE EXACT RIGHT SIZE.  I hope this will now show in the search for anyone else who will need to know this information.  Yes, Mr. search button, the proper size for removing a CZ mag release spring retainer screw is, I repeat, .230 x .037".

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