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550 B shell plate bolt self tightening..?


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My 550 B was rocking along today and suddenly started binding and the shell plate would not turn. After much cursing I discover the bolt holding the shell plate - the one right through the center - is tightening up as I rotate the shell plate. I backed it out to give me the proper clearance and smooth operation - BUT every time I turn the shell plate I have to put a finger on the bolt to keep it from turning. This slows down my progress considerably... While searching the Dillon threads I see mention of a "brass set screw"?? What am I missing?

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there's a brass set screw on the shaft. tighten the center bolt then back out slightly, enough for th shellplate to turn freely, then raise shellplate and tighten set screw on left side of the shaft.

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I have a picture of carnage on a 650 when the shellplate locked up... I talked to Dillon and was also informed of the small set screw.

The Roller handle works a little too well sometimes...

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Merlin, if you have been takeing the shell plate bolt out without looseing the set screw you will probaly need a new set screw.----Larry

Uh oooo.. You know I didn't and you know I do.. ;) Maybe I'll get lucky and it will still be serviceable. If not I am sure the guys at Dillon will send me one quick enough.

Sc0 - the 550 rotates by hand or I probably have really screwed up. :)

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If the screw is still serviceable, clean the shell plate, and star thingy really well, and lube the underside of the head of the bolt with some slide glide. I had mine self-tighten because it was sticking, not because of the set screw being worn out.

No issues at all with over 3K rounds loaded on it since I did that. Smooth as glass.

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I also put a mark at 9:00 with a white paint pen so I know when the bolt is at the right tension to tighten the set screw. It also lets me know if the bolt is loose and turning and needs to be reset and re-tighten the set screw.

Neal in AZ

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Set screw? D-oh!!

Roger that! Set screw now set... 1200 rounds loaded today with no problems - well - not many anyway. :)

Sometime back I commented that I felt a strong mount was a waste of effort and $$$. After I loaded a thousand or so rounds with a Lee U die I changed my mind. Had to refasten my press as it was pulling the attachment bolts right through 2 sheets of 3/4 plywood. I was glad when a piece of brass seperated and I had to put the Dillion sizer back in the press. I have 3 pinch blood blisters on my hand now - and thats with an aluminium roller handle...

Now to figure out how to get the brass out of the Lee die without damage.... :huh:

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They make a tool called a stuck case extractor that works reasonably well, I think mine is an RCBS. Briefly, tou drill out the primer pocket, place a block over the case and run a screw intothe case to pull it out. Works great until you strip out the hole, and yes, I've done that, too. If that happens, give the die to Bonedaddy!

You are using lube, aren't you?

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They make a tool called a stuck case extractor that works reasonably well, I think mine is an RCBS.  Briefly, tou drill out the primer pocket, place a block over the case and run a screw intothe case to pull it out.  Works great until you strip out the hole, and yes, I've done that, too.  If that happens, give the die to Bonedaddy!

You are using lube, aren't you?

OH NO! I ripped the head right off the case. Just a brass sleeve inside the die now. :(

Lube? Just the sweat of my brow.

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Seperated brass is not caused by a lack of lube (although it would have helped) it is caused by the fact that the brass was well worn and going to seperate anyways.

Normally when you get a case stuck it just rips the rim off, not the whole case. You will be glad it happened in the press and not in your pistol.

Always use case lube, even with carbide dies. Just cause they say you don't have to you should, just like jumping out of an Aeroplane, you don't have to use a parachute but it is best if you do. The results are much nicer.

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Seperated brass is not caused by a lack of lube (although it would have helped) it is caused by the fact that the brass was well worn and going to seperate anyways.

Normally when you get a case stuck it just rips the rim off, not the whole case. You will be glad it happened in the press and not in your pistol.

Always use case lube, even with carbide dies. Just cause they say you don't have to you should, just like jumping out of an Aeroplane, you don't have to use a parachute but it is best if you do. The results are much nicer.

Looking at the where the case head separated from the rest of the brass I could see where about 1/2 of the circumference was nice and shiny brass and the other 1/2 was black and "speckled." Looking AFTER the case failed it was easy to see that the case was already damaged before it sheared.

As to the case lube - the pinch blood blisters on my hand as well as John's and your admonitions have convinced me. ;)

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