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New Vortex PST 6-24x50


Rob01
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Came home from work this morning to a box with a new Vortex 6-24x50 PST FFP with 2C that was delivered yesterday. I have looked at the 6-24x PSTs for a few years and wanted one and finally had the chance to get one so I picked it up.

Came in the usual Vortex PST box that I am sure you all have seen. Pulled it out and took a look and glass was very good as I remember and clicks on knobs felt very good as well. Unfortunately I won't be able to shoot it for a couple weeks but I wanted to get it mounted up anyways so I pulled out the set of Seekins rings I got for it and got to it. My wife snapped a couple pictures and jokingly threw them up on Facebook. Multi tasking in mounting a scope and talking on the phone about training classes LOL

I have to say I am liking the 2C reticle as the open center is smaller than others so not really a problem with a precise aiming point. Will give more reports after zeroing. Threw up a few pics and my usual horrible through the scope reticle pic ;)

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I recently bought this same scope.

It's still sitting in the box waiting for me to mount it.

My plan is to put it on a tactical rifle for designated marksman matches.

I like the scope, but there are a couple of things that concern me.

The uncapped turrets make me nervous.

I can't help but wonder if the rough use and movement in precision rifle will make the scope prone to having the zero moved by bumping the turrets during a course of fire.

I also would have preferred that the vertical post was graduated in .2 increments as opposed to .5

That said,... I like the look and feel of the optic. Seems well built.

I will put the scope through its paces soon enough.

Perhaps time and use will show me that these concerns were not justified.

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I wouldn't worry about the uncapped turrets. I have been shooting long range tactical rifle matches around the country since 2003 and have only had a windage turret turn on me a couple times and that was only when it was being slung during movement. If you are doing something that you think might rub the turrets then take a quick look before shooting to make sure but it happens much less often than you would think.

As for the .2 marks, if anywhere it would be better on the horizontal post so it could be used for wind holds and movers but again I have used standard mildots, .5 mils and .2 mil marked and have found the .2s are nice but as long as I have .5 marks I can make very accurate holds. You will see when you use it more that the .5 mark allows you to break down the mil reticle to .1 mil very easy and that will be what your dope is in. A little practice with it and making holds and you won't miss .2 marks.

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I'm with Rob, once you use your scope, your fears will ease away. A quick glance at your knobs before the stage begins confirms that everything is gtg. Vert marks are not as important for me as I dial my scope for shots. I used to just hold over using my reticle, but I took a lesson from Dan at Bangsteel and he had me dialing, and it worked so much better that I made that change immediately. Of course I will still hold over if needed or on a busy stage, like the toilet stage at Peacemaker. I dialed for the close target, then knew my holdover for the long target,and went back and forth between the two. I did fairly well on that stage. Even though I shoot a Bushy, the theory for the two scopes is the same. I'm sure that you will love it once you use it a little.

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Both are good workable reticles. It comes down to two differences that the end user has to decide on. The 2C has the "Christmas tree" dots in the lower two quadrants and an open center. Some like the open center for a more accurate aiming point on very small objects and some people like having a fixed aiming point. Same with the "Christmas tree" style. Some people like to hold more or use the reticle for more accurate shot corrections and like having the small dots in the lower quadrants as reference points. You can't really go wrong with either but it comes down to what you want and like.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Took the scope out on my newly barreled 6.5 Creedmoor and was able to get some better pics of the reticle at 100 and 400 yards. Both pics are on 24x. I will be running a tracking test soon but when I made adjustments to zero yesterday and to dial on 400 yard dope the scope went exactly where it should have.

Again I am not good at taking through the scope pics so don;t hold the image against the scope. It's better in person.

100 yards
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400 yards
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Took the PST back out today on the Creedmoor to put some more rounds through the rifle and do a tracking test. Only went to 9 mils as that was all the cardboard I had on hand but it tracked on. When I shoot a test and I am within a tenth of a mil I call it good. Have done it this way for years and it has held true in use. I also checked the reticle subtension and laid the reticle over the board and the reticle subtended on.

My last groups from the other day were a little right and I just left it there so the tracking test shots are a little right as well. Below is are pics of the board and a target which was where the last shot was when I dialed back down to 0. It was right on in return to zero. I had shot 8 twice as the first shot I felt I had the rifle canted a little when the shot broke, which was the farthest out shot, so after I shot 9 I dialed back to 8 and shot the second shot, the closer one.

I had spun the knobs a few times up to top and back down the other day to see if there would be any shift from running the knobs, which there shouldn't be, and my first shots today were where they were the other day so no shift.

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This is the last target in the test. After the 9 mils I dialed back to 0 and shot this target. As I stated the zero was a little right.

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This is my second PST. The first was a 2.5-10x32 I got about a year and a half ago so never had anything older. That scope is very clear and I have looked through student's 6-24s at classes and demo scopes and I always thought they were pretty nice. This is going back a few years. I can say the glass is very good in these scopes.

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Nice scope. I have a HS-T 6-24 and it has taught me a lot about what I do and don't need in a scope. Might I make a recommendation to pick up a torque wrench for your mount/rings? Harbor Freight sells one for around 20 bucks and it works plenty good for mounting scopes. Just make sure you pick up one in in/lb.

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I have a torque wrench I have been using for years. It's there but not in the pic. I just use the little L shaped one to do the quick finger tightening then the torque wrench comes out. The little L version that comes with the Seekins rings is easier to use for that.

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No not a problem. It's a good thing to bring up for people who didn't realize the advantage of using a good torque wrench. I always recommend getting one in our classes we teach.

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Borkas are nice but you can get away spending less and still get a good product. The Borka is nice for a field unit though as it's compact.

Bunch of different ways to mount scopes from feeler gauge methods to levels. Below is the basic way I do it as demonstrated by CS Tactical but I do some things different after years of doing it. Takes me about 10 min to mount a scope. The most important things are mounting the scope level, properly torquing all screws and set at proper eye relief.

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  • 3 years later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Great info.  I have been looking at the Athlons and was just at a PRS match yesterday, two shooters were running Athlons (one Argos and one Cerus (sp)) Both had good things to say and shot very well.

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