2011 Pistol

[sbaker5]

I have several 2011 pistols and want to lighten the trigger pull. Several are approx 3.5 lb pull and I want around a 2.5 lb pull. I don't mind tinkering with the pistol myself. Any idea where I can go for instruction?

[entropic]

There is quite a bit to learn about trigger work on a 1911... no matter how simple any tutorial or sear jig instructions may make it seem. I have spend hundreds of hours reading and doing trigger work and still have a lot to learn. The more you work with 1911s in general the more you will realize how little you used to know. Things like trigger bow length and disconnector geometry often get overlooked and come up when you thought you had things figured out. I would set aside one gun if you must tinker, and do not shoot that gun in any matches until you are done tinkering and it has been thoroughly tested. There is a ton of information in Kuehnhausen's books and on 1911 forum as well as many other places. Use a white (fine) ceramic stone and some form of magnification (optivisor or better yet, a microscope). You can usually get a really good trigger just by adjusting hammer hook height and taking a brand new quality sear and radius/polish the nose (Without changing the engagement angle). Stick to using brand new sear springs. Don't tweak them (although many do). Make sure you keep at least 0.040" pretravel. Good luck and make sure to do all Kuhnhausen's safety checks before shoving a full magazine in the gun.

[z40acp]

Go to Brownells and look up the Jack Weigand's 2 1/2 lb. trigger pull article. Be careful and check the safeties when done.

Edited April 7, 2015 by z40acp

[peterthefish]

Go to Brownells and look up the Jack Weigand's 2 1/2 lb. trigger pull article. Be careful and check the safeties when done.

This. With the relatively higher quality sear and hammers today, a little tweaking of the sear spring goes a long way.

Edited April 7, 2015 by peterthefish

[Pat Miles]

Be careful to know what the center leg and the left leg of the sear spring affect.

[GeorgeD]

I think a little sear spring adjustment and maybe a lighter mainspring would probably do it very easily. Granted that you ignition parts are quality manufacture.

George

[sbaker5]

Thanks for all the input. Didn't realize there was so much to it. I will do a lot a reading and get with a gunsmith buddy to teach me a few things. Sounds like I could mess some things up if I am not careful.

[mustbeme]

I tried tuning my own trigger, achieving mediocre results, winding up with extra big name springs, disconnectors and such then feeling a crisp 2lb trigger from a gunsmith.

Then you'll want to minimize the take-up (pre-travel)...Good journey but I realized that I value the destination much more in this case.

[Quack]

Take a look at the True Radius sear jig. I forgot that I had one of the earlier ones. I played with it and a STI sear (on my new build), with other work the end result is 1lb 2.5oz (10pull average).

This isn't the first trigger job I've done. I've been using the Ed Brown jig for years. The TR jig is easier to use.

Edited April 23, 2015 by Quack

[zzt]

I'll second the True radius jig, especially the new model.

[Quack]

https://shop.harrisoncustom.com/hd-806-true-radius-pro-sear-stoning-jig

[kimberacp]

I have the new TR sear jig and it is much easier to use (for me) than the Powers jig. I had a Powers jig years ago but could never get the sear face even. You do not have that difficulty with the TR jig. There is a lot to doing trigger work but I had the fortunate luck of getting help from one the BE forum members...Powder Finger!

To make this short, I will say that really the (meat and potatoes) of a trigger job is getting equal contact from the hammer hooks to the sear face. Period! No matter what jig you use, that is the trigger job! Yes, everything that surrounds the sear/disco/hammer combo, needs attention and asking questions, is how you will become aware of them. But understand how / why the two jigs are different, along with achieving equal contact onto the sear from the hammer hooks, is also different, between the two jigs, would be helpful.

Don't be fooled about changing out the parts to (drop in trigger kits)...sure you can but are you getting equal contact on the sear from the hammer hooks??? Probably not!

good luck!

Edited April 23, 2015 by kimberacp

[R1valdez]

Take a look at the True Radius sear jig. I forgot that I had one of the earlier ones. I played with it and a STI sear (on my new build), with other work the end result is 1lb 2.5oz (10pull average).

This isn't the first trigger job I've done. I've been using the Ed Brown jig for years. The TR jig is easier to use.

I woul like to have that same reluts. I just ordered my TR jig. I also have a Power Customs and like KImberacp said, its hard to get a even sear face with it.

[JigSaw]

I think a little sear spring adjustment and maybe a lighter mainspring would probably do it very easily. Granted that you ignition parts are quality manufacture.

George

Starting here will get you going.

All it did was cause me to spend a bunch of money on a few jigs and bunches of parts.

I've gotten a few sub 2# triggers (Powers jig) but I actually like them right at 2.25# as the full range of operation is more responsive to me

Edited May 24, 2015 by JigSaw

[dansedgli]

I ordered a sear, hammer, disconnecter, hammer strut, new safety (which wasnt needed but felt good) and new pins from SVI because my trojan started hammer following.

I put them in and took some tension off the left leg of the sear spring and the trigger pull was spot on 2.5 lbs.

The goal was to make it the same as my new trojan with a gunsmith trigger that was also 2.5lbs. It was all so simple that I wonder if I am missing something.

1000 ish rounds in with no problems yet.

My trubor is under 2lbs and I don't really like it that light, I have the occasional AD when I shoot it after not using it for a while.

Edited May 24, 2015 by dansedgli