Richc2048 Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 I just got my press and was setting up each station. I thought I had everything set up perfectly but noticed that once the cases were in each station it was not the same. Everything seemed to need to be screwed down or adjusted lower. Did I do it wrong by setting each station individually? It took a while for me to get the powder out, case feeder tube empty and primers out because I thought is was good. Any and all help would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ano Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 adjust dies with all stations full. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richc2048 Posted November 17, 2014 Author Share Posted November 17, 2014 Cool. I guess that's why people have multiple presses for calibers. It took me a while and a lotta cases and bullets to figure it out. Do you need powder and primers to get it accurate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 You never load up powder, primers, cases, bulets, etc until you have the press 100% set. It stands to reason the press will be different with brass in the stations as opposed to just an empty plate. You don't need powder and primers to set up your dies. Read the FAQ's and Dillon tips and tricks! It's all in there. Don't use the case feeder until you have made some dummy rounds. Remember a few things: Your first round or two of a loading session will be shorter than the rest. Also, your first powder drop after a break will be higher than the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richc2048 Posted November 17, 2014 Author Share Posted November 17, 2014 Awesome. Thank you Sarge. I just wanted to make sure having powder n such didn't have the same issue I was having not having a case in each station. I will definitely read the FAQ's. I skimmed it by using search functions but I obviously need to read everything to get the Dillon running top notch. Thanks for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeinctown Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 Even if you use one case at a time you will probably only notice that you get .003-.005 variation depending on bullet and case lube use. What I have found is that the only die I have had to go back to and adjust is the bullet seating die because that did change when I had the press full of cases. (by that .005) By lubing the cases slightly, I've narrowed my variation to .003 or less and that is with coated lead. I am using Dillon dies in my press if that matters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richc2048 Posted November 17, 2014 Author Share Posted November 17, 2014 Mine changed the powder station. It went from leaving a bell to not having one and the seating die changed from 1.135 I had originally set it go to 1.14~ to the extreme I found was 1.154 which touched the rifling on my glock 34. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richc2048 Posted November 17, 2014 Author Share Posted November 17, 2014 I'm using Lee. I wonder if I need to upgrade I rally like the sizer and LFC. Maybe I'll just change the bullet seating die. Even on a good day it varies by .010 all the time. I use precision delta 124 jhp. Anyone have issues with the bullet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 I'm using Lee. I wonder if I need to upgrade I rally like the sizer and LFC. Maybe I'll just change the bullet seating die. Even on a good day it varies by .010 all the time. I use precision delta 124 jhp. Anyone have issues with the bullet? Going from LEE to Dillon dies is not necessarily an upgrade. LEE makes good dies. Many people prefer them to any other die. Eventually you may end up with a hodge podge of dies in their like many of us do. My Dillon sizing die was not tight enough to prevent bullet setback so I use an EGW Udie. My Dillon seating die was a total PITA to adjust so I went with a Redding seater(Not the competition seating die) for the fine adjustment knob. The only Dillon die I use is the crimp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterthefish Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 I am a huge fan of micrometer adjustment dies. Setup the press and off by .013? Just dial up or down .013 and you're there. Adjusting powder and seating dies to change between different loads of the same caliber takes all of 15 seconds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ams30gts Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 adjust dies with all stations full. This is what I do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelindsey Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 Where do you get micrometer dies? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Currently Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 RCBS has these seating dies. Most online vendors have them. I'm pretty sure Brian Enos has them in his store ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ano Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 (edited) Superduperfancy dies are overrated. Its not like our tiny guns actually hits stuff we aim at or are going to be used for much more than 200 yards (actually shot 200 at nationals with 10mm, lets just say I misjudged bulletdrop vs my 357) Micrometer vs plan unmarked stuff... you develop a sort of a gefeeeel for it. I do own pretty much every manufacturer of dies!, in pretty much every major pistol caliber.. even the superduper redding comp kits. $40 in lee, more money for components & guns! Most of my toolheads are some sort of a hybrid Like my 38spl toolhead, I only load 105gr LSWC with a tiny smidge of N310 powder, so I found the sizeing die that wouldnt size the brass the least down(was actually the redding), so lead wouldnt recaliber itself. for seating, the redding comp just wouldnt be friends with the lead bullet and the bulletshape same with crimp, it doesnt really have any, the FC lee just passes it through and makes sure its not got a mishap, I dont do any fast reloading with it, so brass can be a tight fit in the revolver... its just needs prescision! needs to go hole in hole at 25-30yards. My 10mm toolhead.. think I ended dillon size & crimp, with lee seating.... My 40 head, has a lee sizer die, with dillon crimp and lee FC.. that combo actually was what gave the best crimp in both calibers and smooth functioning. 357 mag head.. think I use the redding seating die, cant remember which crimp, maybe it was redding profile as I had spare 9mm heads.. think I have mix of dillon, lee, redding and rcbs, some sizeing dies tends to bit the base of 9mm.. and some size to much/little with 1050 not a biggie, with 650 and stock expander, slightly more annoying. 45acp.. stock factory 1050 head with all dillon dies.. I think! works great, havent fiddeld much with it, just load, 45acp seems to be a forgiving caliber as far as dies goes. my 45's seems to eat pretty much everything, that also helps, none of my 45's work with any of the factory ammo I tried, so I this is caliber I really need to load for. my sig p220 x-six actually has minute of compact disc at as close as 15 yards!? with most factory ammo, but with 200gr lswc and some N310, all in the same if not somewhat large hole. Also have separate dies for labbing/prototypeing on forster co-ax with thoose nice rings... I prefer not to adjust my dillons. not sure if my post helps, but it gives some clues to that more expensive isnt always better, and that mixing brands can be a good thing to get what you want. Edited November 20, 2014 by ano Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njl Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Also, your first powder drop after a break will be higher than the rest. Due to added time for more powder to settle into the powder bar cavity? I've never measured that effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ano Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Also, your first powder drop after a break will be higher than the rest. Due to added time for more powder to settle into the powder bar cavity? I've never measured that effect. He's right, but its a bit dependant on misc factors, with my N310 loads, I get maybe 0.1gr off, with N320 it goes from 5,1 to 5,4! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaShot Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 start adjusting from station 1 on and do not over tighten them down at first. Make sure you have brass in all stations and go back and check from station 1 and then tighten them down in the same progressive way. If you do not really tighten them down they will work themselves loose about every 50-75 rounds and you will have issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Also, your first powder drop after a break will be higher than the rest. Due to added time for more powder to settle into the powder bar cavity? I've never measured that effect. He's right, but its a bit dependant on misc factors, with my N310 loads, I get maybe 0.1gr off, with N320 it goes from 5,1 to 5,4! WOW! I missed this way back in November I guess. If I let the press sit for just a minute or so it will throw a heavier charge. That's why when I run 10 for average I toss the first three or so right back in the hopper and then crank the handle just like I am loading. The only way to get accurate throws in my experience. I use a lot of WAC and it will jump up half a grain if it sits for very long between throws. I guess it must just keep compacting the powder while it waits for the next pull of the handle. Not sure of the mechanics or the science behind it but I do know it is a very real occurrence. a half a grain of Autocomp in a 9MAJOR load could be a problem! And as Ano said way back then, 320 will do it quite a bit as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AusPPC Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 The stretch in the presses linkages under load causes the shellplate to not travel up as far when all stations are fully occupied, hence why OAL will be shorter with all stations occupied versus only one. All colours of press do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDA Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 WOW! I missed this way back in November I guess. If I let the press sit for just a minute or so it will throw a heavier charge. That's why when I run 10 for average I toss the first three or so right back in the hopper and then crank the handle just like I am loading. The only way to get accurate throws in my experience. I use a lot of WAC and it will jump up half a grain if it sits for very long between throws. I guess it must just keep compacting the powder while it waits for the next pull of the handle. Not sure of the mechanics or the science behind it but I do know it is a very real occurrence. a half a grain of Autocomp in a 9MAJOR load could be a problem! And as Ano said way back then, 320 will do it quite a bit as well. I haven't seen that type of fluctuation (+0.5 grain on a first throw after sitting, whether a few minutes or a few weeks), but I have seen it increase 0.1 to 0.2 grains on the first throw. I am sure it is powder dependant and I believe it is simply due to the powder settling into the bar due to more time to allow gravity/vibration/compression due its thing. If I take a break and plan to resume loading before too long and would rather not recycle a few charges when I return, I leave the handle in the down position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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