RippSpeed Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Anyone else having the same issue ???It seems to happen on 2nd or 3rd station... Most likely the 2nd ...I have a bunch of once fired brass and some are not sitting correctly in the shell plate. Easy enough I can pull it out without much force. And most of the time it doesnt get fed into the shell plate correctly.Is this a brass issue or a shell plate issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Obvious question, but do you have the correct shellplate installed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippSpeed Posted August 23, 2014 Author Share Posted August 23, 2014 Obvious question, but do you have the correct shellplate installed? unless its wrong from the factory ... its the same one I've had since I bought this thing brand new Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Bird Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Couple of ideas. Look at your shell plate. Is each place a case would go in the same, no broken points on the opening. Run the machine empty and watch the shell plate index if that is smooth and no jump then. Look at each case after the deprime stage about 12 to 15 and be sure the primer is gone, sometimes they will not drop out so the will tilt the brass over going into 2. That would cause the die to come down on the side and crush it. Take a look and if these are not the issue let us know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippSpeed Posted August 23, 2014 Author Share Posted August 23, 2014 (edited) Couple of ideas. Look at your shell plate. Is each place a case would go in the same, no broken points on the opening. Run the machine empty and watch the shell plate index if that is smooth and no jump then. Look at each case after the deprime stage about 12 to 15 and be sure the primer is gone, sometimes they will not drop out so the will tilt the brass over going into 2. That would cause the die to come down on the side and crush it. Take a look and if these are not the issue let us know. Dont need to look ... I already have the answer to all these... my machine runs smooth when it index between stations. The shell plate is still good but showing signs of wear from use... Depriming which is the 1st stage works. Because all the crush brass have brand new primers in them... Edited August 23, 2014 by RippSpeed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonofVa Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 (edited) I am not sure where the crushing is happing on your machine, but the casefeed plunger will crush cases. If I partially cycle the machine (because of a jam at the sizing die or the swaging station) the casefeed plunger will try to jam another case into station #1, so the case that is already there gets crushed on the side. It usually happens when I am trying to get a case out of station #2 because the decapping pin has sucked the primer partially back into the case. Or the swaging station is trying to deal with the partially ejected primer, and the shell plate try’s to advance but it can’t, so moving the shell plate back so you can pull out the case also causes the shell plate to move back to station #1 with a case in the shell plate, and one in the casefeed plunger. Now the one in the shell plate is going to get crushed by the plunger trying to stick a new one in the shell plate. Edited August 23, 2014 by RonofVa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippSpeed Posted August 23, 2014 Author Share Posted August 23, 2014 I am not sure where the crushing is happing on your machine, but the casefeed plunger will crush cases. If I partially cycle the machine (because of a jam at the sizing die or the swaging station) the casefeed plunger will try to jam another case into station #1, so the case that is already there gets crushed on the side. It usually happens when I am trying to get a case out of station #2 because the decapping pin has sucked the primer partially back into the case. Or the swaging station is trying to deal with the partially ejected primer, and the shell plate try’s to advance but it can’t, so moving the shell plate back so you can pull out the case also causes the shell plate to move back to station #1 with a case in the shell plate, and one in the casefeed plunger. Now the one in the shell plate is going to get crushed by the plunger trying to stick a new one in the shell plate. nope ... then I would notice the jam / crushed case in station #2 ( decapping and sizing ) ... And I only notice to catch the crush brass right at station #5 ( powder charging station )... My eyes are usually at attention on station #1 , powder bar and bullet seating station... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 It is the priming station. Your priming station is making the brass go sideways and when it goes into the powder die it crushes the mouth. First, make sure your shellplate is snugged down, but enough that you can move it around with your hand. Now take some time and and make sure the swage die is down enough, Now adjust your swage rod so you are getting enough swage. Most likely after all this you will need to readjust your primer depth and back it off quite a bit. This would be a good time to put new springs on the primer slide arm. That should take care of it. Also make sure there is nothing in the recess on the shellplate that is keeping the cases go all the way in like it is supposed to. Hope this helps. DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippSpeed Posted August 23, 2014 Author Share Posted August 23, 2014 It is the priming station. Your priming station is making the brass go sideways and when it goes into the powder die it crushes the mouth. First, make sure your shellplate is snugged down, but enough that you can move it around with your hand. Now take some time and and make sure the swage die is down enough, Now adjust your swage rod so you are getting enough swage. Most likely after all this you will need to readjust your primer depth and back it off quite a bit. This would be a good time to put new springs on the primer slide arm. That should take care of it. Also make sure there is nothing in the recess on the shellplate that is keeping the cases go all the way in like it is supposed to. Hope this helps. DougC DougC But I sometimes catch crush before I drop the powder ... So it cant be the powder charge station. I have to re-check all this crap ... I have 2 culprits 1 = the brass 2 = the shell plate is worn out ... but I've only had this damn thing for 2 years and ran no more than 70k thru the press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 (edited) If it crushes it is because the brass is not oriented in the shellplate correctly when the toolhead comes down. If the case rim is boogered up then it won't go into the shellplate from the case feed plunger. If it makes it into the shellplate enough for the shellplate to rotate then only reason the case would get crushed is because it is not in the shellplate centered up. This can be because of the wrong buttons in the station, or the reason I noted above. Tack a dental tool and clean out all the shellplate station recess areas and see if you get anything out. Start with the basics and work your way through it. Good luck. DougC Edited August 23, 2014 by DougCarden Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 . Depriming which is the 1st stage works. Just for clarity and so everyone knows exactly what stage your problem happens at, the 1050's are 8 station presses. The only thing that happens at #1 is the case feed. Swage/expand is at 3, prime at 4 and powder drop at 5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Vark WSO Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Hi Ripp - I'm not a pro on this machine, but have had mine longer than you say you've had yours. Surprised no one asked what caliber is giving you problems - rimmed revolver brass or semi-auto? You say that "most of the time it doesn't get fed into the shell plate correctly." When this happens on my machine, I regrease the plunger roller and the case feed cam - seems to help. DougC mentioned something is not centered up - which makes sense - it would seem that something has come loose after 70K rounds. Another thought is that maybe something like a spent primer got under the shellplate and it is sitting at a slight cant creating an angle between the brass and the dies. Might just want to take it apart, clean everything, and put it back all back together again. FWIW - I deprime all my brass on a Rock Chucker before I clean it and have very few problems once I start pulling the handle on the 1050. Keep us posted if you find the culprit. Good luck. Cheers - OVW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 (edited) Surprised no one asked what caliber is giving you problems That's a good point. 380 almost always winds up being crushed, if your loading 9mm... Edited August 24, 2014 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Ripp is most likely shooting .40 or 9 major... My guess is .40, and he is running brass through a case pro too fast and it is buggering up some of the case head rims, hence they are not going all the way into the shellplate. After a good night's sleep I remember having that particular issue. I am curious to know what happens.... DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DownUnder Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 (edited) Check the white nylon retaining tab near the priming station. (Part 12930) If it is not holding the case snugly against the inside of the shell plate the case can move outward under rotation after it leaves the priming station and be crushed by the descending powder die. Edited August 24, 2014 by DownUnder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippSpeed Posted August 24, 2014 Author Share Posted August 24, 2014 Ripp is most likely shooting .40 or 9 major... My guess is .40, and he is running brass through a case pro too fast and it is buggering up some of the case head rims, hence they are not going all the way into the shellplate. After a good night's sleep I remember having that particular issue. I am curious to know what happens.... DougC DougC; yes this is on my 40sw 1050 ... my 9mm 1050 it just hums I bought these brass from a vendor and it seems like what you said might be the case... It just started happening with this batch of brass... And I have no case pro ... but I am running a EGW U die, a Redding Comp Die and a Lee Factory Crimp... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Yep. the case rim is boogered up. Try some that got crushed. it won't slide into the shellplate all the way due to the case rim getting mashed out. If you run the machine too fast it will start rolling before it bottoms out and starts the roll on the plate. The case rim is not in the slot, but higher and it mashes the rim a bit too much. No way to rehab it either I am afraid. DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippSpeed Posted August 31, 2014 Author Share Posted August 31, 2014 Figured it out... one of the stations on my shell plate got chipped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GDIS46 Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 Since your 1050 is probably out of warrantee and you will have to buy a new shell plate, why not consider one of these with a lifetime guarantee? http://www.ebay.com/itm/321482912381?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlee20 Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Because I have 4 of them on my shelf that are machined wrong. He never could get me a correctly machined plate. I spent several hours and scrapped a lot of brass trying to install. They are not an authorized dillon product and anyone that has them installed can lose their warranty. (I know it's irrelevant to this machine) Do not waste your time on those products. Plus, I don't know anyone that has killed a dillon shell plate because of a manufacturing defect. I broke one on accident. Even though it was completely my fault, dillon stepped up and replaced it no questions asked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GDIS46 Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Because I have 4 of them on my shelf that are machined wrong. He never could get me a correctly machined plate. I spent several hours and scrapped a lot of brass trying to install. They are not an authorized dillon product and anyone that has them installed can lose their warranty. (I know it's irrelevant to this machine) Do not waste your time on those products. Plus, I don't know anyone that has killed a dillon shell plate because of a manufacturing defect. I broke one on accident. Even though it was completely my fault, dillon stepped up and replaced it no questions asked. I didn't know that. Thanks for the enlightenment! Now I know........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Since your 1050 is probably out of warrantee and you will have to buy a new shell plate, why not consider one of these with a lifetime guarantee? http://www.ebay.com/itm/321482912381?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I picked up one of those plates for 5.56... WAY better than the Dillion plates. Don't know when Tlee got his plates that are machined wrong, but, he did tell me when I bought mine, that his machinist was doing them by hand. They, including my plate, are now fully CNC'd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippSpeed Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 Since your 1050 is probably out of warrantee and you will have to buy a new shell plate, why not consider one of these with a lifetime guarantee? http://www.ebay.com/itm/321482912381?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I picked up one of those plates for 5.56... WAY better than the Dillion plates. Don't know when Tlee got his plates that are machined wrong, but, he did tell me when I bought mine, that his machinist was doing them by hand. They, including my plate, are now fully CNC'd. Aahhh either going to give them a try... if they dont work will review personally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GDIS46 Posted September 5, 2014 Share Posted September 5, 2014 Since your 1050 is probably out of warrantee and you will have to buy a new shell plate, why not consider one of these with a lifetime guarantee? http://www.ebay.com/itm/321482912381?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I picked up one of those plates for 5.56... WAY better than the Dillion plates. Don't know when Tlee got his plates that are machined wrong, but, he did tell me when I bought mine, that his machinist was doing them by hand. They, including my plate, are now fully CNC'd. Aahhh either going to give them a try... if they dont work will review personally. Sound like they are worthy of consideration (in my humble opinion) since they are now CNC machined. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlee20 Posted September 5, 2014 Share Posted September 5, 2014 All of mine were made after the "now fully CNC'd" sales pitch. How is it any better than the dillon plate? It has rough edges on the radius entering the slot. It causes the brass to drag. Even if mine were machined to spec, it would be any better than dillon plates. YMMV (Btw, you're welcome to check one of my plates out. Just send me a message) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now