GDIS46

Soap opera update: My last post was Saturday (see above) so this Tuesday I called Bill Larsen, Manager of the Repair Center, and told him he sent me the wrong part. He apologized and said he would ship the correct one that day. I also asked if he could throw in a power switch for my other 1050 since the one I had was intermittent and you sometimes had to wiggle it to come on. No problem, he replied. Later that day I got a notice the part had shipped USPS. The next day, Wednesday, I clicked on the USPS tracking number link that I was sent and it said the part was delivered two days ago to Bumfart, Texas. Huhh? Then later in the day, another email with yet another USPS tracking number and it showed the part went from Scottsdale to Phoenix then to San Diego. Today I clicked on the 1st tracking number and it said it had been delivered. I went out to my mailbox and there was my Casefeeder Bowl Insert #17808 and it even included the screws. I'm happy, happy, happy! Dillon rocks! I guess the other tracking number must be the power switch although I would have thought they would have shipped them together to save on shipping costs. When I clicked on the 2nd USPS tracking number it says the part will arrive in San Diego by midnight tonight so I assume it will be delivered tomorrow. I have no idea what the Texas delivery was about.

Not really a pain at all but there are several ways you can do it. 1. The micro switch is rewired to be the trigger on the counter and the counter is what turns off the motor when the count is reached. 2. The micro switch remains in series with the motor and something else triggers the count. a. You could attach a relay to the micro switch that would trigger the counter but yet remain in series with the motor. b. That something else could be a sensor around the tube. c. Or even a magnetic switch tied to the down stroke of the handle. As they say, there is more than one way to skin a cat.

I use a small Sjoberg woodworking bench (24" x 60") and have 3 presses on it. My 1050s are attached to 12"x12" steel plates. Overall, the bench is a bit on the tight side. Also, I found that you need to fasten your bench to the wall unless it weighs over 1,000 pounds.

OK, just an update for anyone following this soap opera: I picked up my mail tonight and there was an envelope from Dillon. Hmm, doesn't look big enough to hold my Casefeeder plate #17808. Opened it up and I was right. It did contain a small white plastic piece #17037. This must be the replacement cam for the new one piece bowl. It is Saturday night so I will once again have to wait and call Dillon on Monday morning. Does anyone else have problems like this or is it just me?

I don't understand what this item ($250) does that a Dillon stock cast tool head ($209) doesn't - other than look pretty. Does it have some advantage.? Someone please educate me.

I don't think that the Casefeed drop tube condition is really a good indicator since it is plastic and shows shadows from the cases easily. Plus, it could have easily been changed or cleaned. I would think that excess play in the mechanical parts would be a better indicator. How much slop is in the handle? Did the owner lube the unit well? Are there sign of grease over load. Ask to see his grease-gun. If he doesn't have one, then he wasn't greasing it nor doing proper maintenance. Remember that any worn parts can be replaced if you get it. Maybe a good question here is why doesn't Dillon have a built-in counter, like a car odometer, that can't be reset? It could be used for more than one purpose.

OK, problems solved! I'll post this as an FYI for anyone trying to get out of stock Dillon parts. Long story short: Two weeks ago (on a Saturday) I called Dillon Tech Support to get some parts for a Super 1050 and after a 52 minute wait, finally got to talk to a live person. I identified the six parts I needed, one being the Casefeeder plate #17808. He said they changed the design and no longer stock that part since the bowl is now one-piece. (I thought companies were required by federal law to stock parts for out of production equipment for 10 years.) He said he would send me the 5 parts I needed but would only have to charge me for one of them. OK, no problem. And he would look around for a 1050 that had been made non-functional because parts had been stripped from it and take the Casefeeder plate off it, (no charge). I was elated. A week goes by and a Dillon envelope show up in the mail with only a micro-switch in it. No calls, no email, nothing. Wednesday (2 days ago), I posted this looking for help from the forum members. No replies. I didn't really expect anyone would have a spare Casefeeder plate but thought I would at least ask. Thursday, I called Dillon Tech Support a second time and after a 45 minute wait, talked to another tech support person. I explained the problem so he said that I could have just order the parts I wanted on-line without having to wait. Also that the Casefeeder plate was no longer manufactured and there were none in stock. I asked him what I could do? He thinks for a few minutes and says, "This is a long shot but may be worth a try. Call Bill Larsen, Manager of the Repair Center and see if he has any laying around." After hanging up with him, I went on-line and ordered the parts I needed. This method does no get you any free parts like can happen by talking to a live tech support person but takes the human out of the picture so you are not left at their mercy. I called Bill two times but no one picked up and I did not leave a message. Finally, I called a third time and left a message explaining my predicament, throwing myself on his mercy. An hour later Bill calls back and says he has the part, he already has my shipping info, and will mail me the part that day. I can not thank him enough. I am now eagerly awaiting the packages to show up in my mail box. I hope this information helps you if you ever run into a similar problem. That's my story, Your Honor, and I'm sticking to it.

Let me help you a bit more. The manufacturer is OMRON, Model DH48J (although there are other manufacturers selling compatible items) and is an industrial product. You might find them on a piece of industrial production machinery counting cans, parts, bottles, or such. They come in a variety of voltages so you will need to get one for 110/120VAC (if you are here in the USA). They typically sell for $12 - $56. I recommend you buy two since they are so cheap so you have a spare and something to experiment with. Try this search to find these: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=OMRON+DH48J&_sacat=0 Additional note: the connector looks like the old 8 pin TV tube connector which can be troublesome to find slip on connectors for. You can make the job easier if you also get the socket made for this too. It is model 25860N and has screw-on terminals on it. Hope that helps.

I think I found it on eBay if that is any help.

I am trying to get a Super 1050 back in operation and need the metal plate called Casefeed Bowl Insert, Part #17808 (Item #26 in the below picture). It is the gold anodized curved metal plate that attaches to the top of the bowl. Dillon seems to no longer carry it since they went to the all plastic case bowls. I am thinking that someone might have one who has replaced their bowl with the new all plastic version. Without it, this machine will never run again. Can you please help me?

I added an electronic case counter to one of my 1050s. It counts dropped cases. You can also set it to a number (say 100), remove the drop tube, drop into a bag or bucket, turn on the case feeder and it will run until it drop 100 cases exactly. Good if you are selling brass by quantity.

Here is my reloading set-up. I originally bought these presses when Obummer was driving ammo prices up. I confess that it has sat unused for the past 3 years. Shame on me. So, I am dusting off the tools and getting ready to start loading. Note: I like to re-engineer everything I touch so here is a case counter I added to one of my 1050s. Also a HF vibratory tumbler I added a Gamma Seal spin off lid and timer to. That really works good.

Yea, stupid me. I picked it up new at a gun show for a good price but didn't think of the size vs weight issue. The bigger the drum, the more it is going to weigh. With 2½ gallons of brass and 3 gallons of water, I can hardly lift it up on the bench. I'll probable start putting it on the floor in the future.

OK, here is an update if anyone was interested. I ordered a quart of Brass Juice ($20 + $9.75 shipping) I had a 2½ gallon bucket of mixed range brass so I dumped it all in the 8½ gallon tumbling drum. I added 3 gallons of distilled water and 6 ounces of Brass Juice then tumbled them for about 3 hours. I rinsed them with tap water, then threw them back in the tumbler with a couple of dry towels and ran it for 30 minutes to get all the water out of the cases. The towels came out damp, the brass relatively dry. Then I air dried them for a day. I didn't notice any water spots. Here is what they looked like before and after. Ok, now to start processing this brass..... I assume that I should sort by head stamp, then lube the cases and run them through the press. Again, I have never reloaded on a 1050 before so if you see any glaring errors, feel free to correct me. Where do I (or do I have to) check case length for just blaster rounds? Also, here is my reloading bench with my Dillon Super 1050s. You may notice the left 1050 has a case counter mod that I added to count cases. I can run it as is and it will count how many rounds go into the press. Or I can disconnect the drop tube from the press and have it drop a preset number of cases into a bag or bucket. I dial in 100, turn on the case feeder and the motor runs until 100 cases are dropped.

I heard the last time the Olympics was cancelled it was supposed to have taken place in Tokyo but that was because of WWII. Interesting..... Hmm.....

As an old engineer who likes to re-engineer everything I touch, I'll throw in my two cents here: The problem is: Inconsistent Powder Drops. Correct? The theory is: To vibrate the powder measure and pack the powder down. Correct? You probably don't need constant vibration on the powder measure when you are not loading. Right or wrong? If you don't need constant vibration then how about a switch that turns on it a vibrating motor at some phase of the cycle? Maybe the down stoke of the handle, or something in between. or the vibrating motor runs anytime the handle is out of home position? I would not use an aquarium pump nor your wife or girlfriend's vibrator. They sell small vibrating motors on eBay and Amazon that run on a wide array of voltages (3vdc to 24vdc) that could be permanently mounted to the powder measure. The larger the motor, the more strongly they vibrate. They also sell small battery packs that could be connected to the switch then to the motor. Here are some samples along with a mounting bracket, and a battery pack. Once the motor is mounted to the powder measure, a switch is installed so it runs ever time the handle is pulled down and turns off when the handle id returned to home. It would vibrate the powder measure each time you pulled the handle thereby packing the powder and giving more consistent powder drops. If this is a big problem, then why hasn't Dillon come up with a solution? Your thoughts?

I have a Diamond Technologies 65T wet tumbler with a 8.5 gallons drum. I have never used a wet tumbler before, only have used a vibrating tumbler with corn cob and walnut shells. I have about 20 pounds of Pellets LLC stainless pins. I would like to know: 1. How much brass should I attempt to clean at one time? 2. How much water should I put in? 3. What additives should I use? 4. How many pounds of stainless pins do I use? 5. How long do I tumble the brass for? I assume I have to de-prime the brass first so the primer pockets get clean. I appreciate any advise if you are a wet tumbler since I have never done this before. Gary in San Diego

This type of issue makes me wish Dillon would "color code" it's caliber specific parts...... but of course, the smart guys wouldn't need that. Right? However, it sure would make life easier.

Here is another option: http://www.ebay.com/itm/G-S-Custom-1-45-308-RL-or-Super1050-shell-plate-for-Dillon-press-/321506928729?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4adb4e6859 http://www.ebay.com/itm/G-S-Custom-3-223-5-56-RL1050-shell-plate-for-Dillon-press-/321506929228?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4adb4e6a4c http://www.ebay.com/itm/G-S-Custom-5-W-9mm-40-S-W-RL-or-Super1050-shell-plate-for-Dillon-press-/221541074691?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3394e08703

Tell you what, chunk it in a box and PM me your address and I'll swap you an entire 650 already set up for .223, I'll even cover shipping. Damn, you beat me to the punch on that one but I'll add my 2 cents worth..... If you are going to chuck it, then chuck it my way (San Diego) or bring it down and we can work on it together. (My wife would literally kill me if I bought a third 1050........) LOL!!

Where do the small reloaders sell their products? Gun shops or ranges?

I had been using Dillon spray lube on all my brass but just recently purchased a 4.oz. bottle of liquid lanolin for $8 (postage paid) off Amazon and was going to mix it with Iso-Heat (at 9:1) but see that some recommend 99% isopropyl alcohol. Does anyone know if one is better than the other? It is slightly less expensive. Dillon Lube: $9 for lube plus $6 postage for 8 oz. = $1.88 per oz. Home Brew: $8 for liquid lanolin plus $18 for 36 oz. Iso-Heat = $0.73 per oz. (free shipping via Amazon Prime) Home Brew: $8 for liquid lanolin plus $16 for 36 oz. 99% Isopropyl Alcohol = $0.67 per oz. (free shipping via Amazon Prime)

I know that this is an old thread but I'll throw in my thoughts here: I am in the process of using my Dillon 1050 case feeder to move the brass and this counter/relay to do the counting. http://www.ebay.com/itm/111105622248?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (Omron DH48J Digital Counter/Relay) By using a counter/relay you can enter a number (of cases) and it will count to that number then trip the relay (which could control the case feeder motor) and stop. And best of all, there is room to mount the counter/relay in the case feed hopper just below the motor so it looks like it was made to be there. I haven't decided how to trigger the counter: either by the case switch or by a separate prox detector on the case drop tube.