infinity Posted January 7, 2005 Share Posted January 7, 2005 a gunsmith told me to blue my blaster first then after a few thousand rounds then we'll go for hardchrome. he said that it needs to be broken in so that the slide and frame will function flawlessly. is this true? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loves2Shoot Posted January 7, 2005 Share Posted January 7, 2005 No need to blue it first, just shoot it in the white and then have Tripp Research chrome it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted January 7, 2005 Share Posted January 7, 2005 Depending on the smith, it's true that you'll need some break-in. Since chrome is really hard to remove, the smith probably wants to make sure everything is working well first too. Blue is almost free if your smith is set up to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infinity Posted January 7, 2005 Author Share Posted January 7, 2005 L2S, unfortunately i'm not from the US so as much as i want tripp or robar to do my finish I just...can't... but i'd love either of the 2 companies to do it since i've seen in the internet how great their job is. Shred, well, the'smith just told me that it'll be smoother if i blue it first then chrome after a few thousand rounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted January 7, 2005 Share Posted January 7, 2005 "smoother" likely means "broken-in"...as shred said. Listen to your gunsmith...he knows what works with the guns that he builds. You have a few easy options for the break-in period: - shoot it without a finish added (in the white...as L2S mentioned). This is a viable option for most everybody - blue it (if your smith blues and it is cheap) - parkerize it...cheap...better protection than the other two...and you can do it yourself (on the stove) if you feel up to it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infinity Posted January 7, 2005 Author Share Posted January 7, 2005 flex, i'm not familliar with the parkerizing process can u enlighten me on the how to and not to? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEDELLCUSTOM Posted January 7, 2005 Share Posted January 7, 2005 i usually suggest bluing the pistol first. since i do my own bluing, i never send a pistol out in the white, at least with the bluing it has some level of protection against rust developing on the unprotected surfaces. some customers want it chromed right away, which is not a problem but usually requires a bit more break in time since the addition of the chrome makes the gun a little tighter. if the gun is too tight after the chroming is done, you can carefully lap the parts together again to smooth out any real tight spots in the chrome. to do this i use a mixture of heavy tapping oil ( yes tapping not lapping ) and #800 lapping compound. make sure when you are done to thoroughly clean all the lapping compound off the parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonub Posted January 7, 2005 Share Posted January 7, 2005 let true weight the dealer of sti do the smithing. they will cut to very tight tolerances to fit your gun. mine when i got it i could not pull the slide back. i have to push the barrel from the muzzle for it to unlock. it jams on the first hunded rounds but after that it fires without a hitch. it was chromed immediately and sand blasted. after a thousand or so rounds you will be able to pull the slide back by pulling on it. now after 16000 plus rounds and 1 year it is still very tight and very accurate. just tell them to fit it as tight as they can Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infinity Posted January 7, 2005 Author Share Posted January 7, 2005 Dan, thanks for that i'll speak to my 'smith and let him know about this, which i know that he'll agree with u. thanks again. Jasonub, r u using STI slide on ur SV? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted January 7, 2005 Share Posted January 7, 2005 flex,i'm not familliar with the parkerizing process can u enlighten me on the how to and not to? thanks A great thread with exellent info can be found here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonub Posted January 7, 2005 Share Posted January 7, 2005 Dan,thanks for that i'll speak to my 'smith and let him know about this, which i know that he'll agree with u. thanks again. Jasonub, r u using STI slide on ur SV? yes the svi frame and sti slide Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcoliver Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 infinity, if you don't mind me asking, who's building your gun? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infinity Posted January 8, 2005 Author Share Posted January 8, 2005 mcoliver, Tony Olinares thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huck Posted January 12, 2005 Share Posted January 12, 2005 Blue it first. I built my current limited gun very tight, I then shot it about 15k rounds. I had it hard chromed and I still had to do some refitting. Hard chrome is very thin but it DOES have thickness so if the gun is tight shoot the slobber out of it before you have it chromed. The happy ending of this story is that the gun has about 70k on it now and is still tighter than most custom blasters out of the box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted January 23, 2005 Share Posted January 23, 2005 I wonder how a hard chromed Les Baer would do brand new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infinity Posted January 23, 2005 Author Share Posted January 23, 2005 i think they come out of the shop already broken-in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyin40 Posted January 24, 2005 Share Posted January 24, 2005 I plan to have my gun hard chromed so my gunsmith said I could have it hot blued or cold blued. Cold blue was free with the gun work he did, whats the difference between the two. Flyin40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimel Posted January 24, 2005 Share Posted January 24, 2005 Cold blue is generally not as resistant to wear as hot blue. You also don't get quite the depth of finish color with cold blues. The biggest problem with some cold blues is that some gun solvents will take them right off. Cold blue is better than bare steel...barely. Not all cold blues are created equal. I have played with the Novum Solutions Blue Wonder cold blue and it is pretty interesting stuff. Tried it on some scrap high carbon steel and was pretty impressed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Putty Posted January 24, 2005 Share Posted January 24, 2005 I don't want to speak for Benny Hill, but I asked him about breaking in my Fat Free first before hardchrome. He recommended to me not to do it. Although my frame was off the blowed up gun.....He's a straight up guy and will give good sensible reasoning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcoliver Posted January 24, 2005 Share Posted January 24, 2005 He already probably knows his work down to a thousandth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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