Primer system 650 vs 1050 ?

[Hammer1]

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Anyone want to give the pros and cons and compare the primer system dependability and ease of use between the Dillon 650 and the Super 1050 when using commercial brass (not military) ?

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Edited April 5, 2014 by Hammer1

[DougCarden]

If you are mechanical and can change your oil then the 1050. If not, then stay with the 650. You have to adjust the primer slide arm, and if you can't learn to tweak it for best results then you won't be happy.

DougC

[Retread1911]

The priming system is just a component of the decision between the presses. Doug is correct the adjustment on the 1050 is more difficult then the 650. However there are other benefits to the 1050 like in line swaging that if you need you will not notice the increased difficulty.

For me I tend to process brass on the 1050 for the swaging and speed and then load on the 650 these days.

If I was going for only 1 press then it would be the 1050 hands down.

Retread

[jmorris]

I have never had to do anything to a 650 priming system other than blow it off with compressed air.

I almost cried when I found out that my first 1050 used the same plastic oraface tip on the primer tube that the SD and 550 uses. If a primer system starts acting up on one pf them, the tip is the first part I replace. At least they are free. Then there is also the little vacuum hose that is stuck on the roll pin on the primer slide too. I also wrap a section of tape around the primer tube below the clamp that holds the arm that connects to the slide, this way I can return it to the exact spot it likes. Would have rather seen them copy the 650 system than the other two.

Edited April 5, 2014 by jmorris

[C-Money]

I've had the 650 primer system mess up occasionally when the ratchet arm pops out of the primer hols and doesn't advance the feed disc. It's rare, and happens when things get really dirty.

[98sr20ve]

To me the 650 setup is more reliable.

[ropsitos]

I think the difference in the priming is on the 650 you can feel what's going on as that's the only operation that happens in that handle direction.

From what I understand the 1050 primes while doing a bunch of other things so u have no feel. Clearly there is more adjustment on a 1050, so you maybe you can get it setup where feel has no value.

[jmorris]

That's a good point. I prefer the 1050 depth adjustment and prime on down stroke but wish it had the feeding system of the 650.

[BullyDog]

If only the 650 priming system would not use the ski jump and allow the primer to stay in priming wheel for another chance to prime.

So many times, you need to pull a case and you loose another primer.

[jmorris]

I suppose you could make the base flat all the way around so they wouldn't fall out but then they might get jammed up when they meet the stack in the tube again. So then you would need to revert back to the plastic oraface tube that the others use so you don't mangle the brass one.

How about just having some sized and deprimed cases nearby?

[farmland]

I can not give you a comparison as I only have the 650. After 20 years of heavy use I have never had a problem. It has been 100% reliable for me. I find changing from large to small primers is pretty simple though it takes a little work. It takes me less than 5 mins to do the change/conversion.

Some things you have to get use to is that you must make sure the primers are feeding so that you do not run brass through without primers. It take a few strokes to get the primers ready to get into the correct location when you first start to reload. Thus the brass will be a little ahead when you first start out.

Keeping the primers full is not a problem with the early warning system.

I like or at least I am use to getting the feel of setting the primers on the up stroke. You can tell very fast if you are trying to seat a primer into a crimped pocket.

The ski ramp is no big problem, I mean at the most I may dump one or two primers into it while setting everything up. It is very easy to stop the feeding of primers when you need to.

Unloading of primers can be a pain since you have to stroke them all out onto the ski ramp. But even this is a mild issue. I never had any fly or fall off of the ramp.

For some reason though I have had to replace the ski ramp two times. I'm not sure how the plastic broke, for all that I know I could have caught something on the ramp.

Primers that I have used include all types of Winchester and Rem 7 1/2 bench rest.

I have never had any issue with the primer pick up tubes.

I will noted I never force a primer, if it feels bad then I stop. 99% of the time this is because of a crimped primer pocket that slipped through my quality control. I can remember one or at least a couple primers for some reason wanted to feed sideways. Again however I think it was more of a primer pocket issue.

I take time to clean the primers tube and entire priming system a few times a year. Because it is simple to take a part this is never a problem.

So in my rating I give it a 9 out of 10.

[gacajun]

On the 650 it takes 8 strokes of the handle to get the primers to the correct position. However, it is much easier to just raise the ram a few inches and then just advance the primer wheel by pressing the little spring loaded lever 8 times....no muss or fuss....easy and fast.

[RDA]

On the 650 it takes 8 strokes of the handle to get the primers to the correct position. However, it is much easier to just raise the ram a few inches and then just advance the primer wheel by pressing the little spring loaded lever 8 times....no muss or fuss....easy and fast.

I do that every time I start a fresh session.

[Warpdrv]

On the 650 it takes 8 strokes of the handle to get the primers to the correct position. However, it is much easier to just raise the ram a few inches and then just advance the primer wheel by pressing the little spring loaded lever 8 times....no muss or fuss....easy and fast.

Thanks for that tip..... still learning, love all the tips and tricks...

[Prebaned]

Can't speak for the 1050 but on my 650 I had a issue with advancement. The rotary primer disc would advance when it felt it wanted to on its own terms. Drove me nuts. Powder all over the shell plate was the indicator. After reading up and trying the usual fixes of leaving the bolts only hand tight and a drop of oil on the pin, the only fix needed and has been working 100% is the polish job. Seems the primer indexing arm is a stamped part with less than smooth edges. The little pawl that engages the holes on the rotory primer disc needed a good debur and polish and never skipped beat since.

Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

[Vanniek71]

I had issues with a 650 system not advancing in the past. It was a messed up spring. But now that I know a 1050 literally piece by piece I wouldn't ever go back. It's an all in 1 press for me, and once you learn them and massage em to your liking they are awesome.

[98sr20ve]

Can't speak for the 1050 but on my 650 I had a issue with advancement. The rotary primer disc would advance when it felt it wanted to on its own terms. Drove me nuts. Powder all over the shell plate was the indicator. After reading up and trying the usual fixes of leaving the bolts only hand tight and a drop of oil on the pin, the only fix needed and has been working 100% is the polish job. Seems the primer indexing arm is a stamped part with less than smooth edges. The little pawl that engages the holes on the rotory primer disc needed a good debur and polish and never skipped beat since.

Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

I had the same issue. I polished the disc and the little tab. Not an issue since.