gacajun

+1000 on the PAL filler....I've had one for almost 2 years now and I use it regularly. I've got 10 primer tubes so I load one and empty it into the 650 and then load all 10 of them....I'm good for 1100 rounds. These have been a little hard to get lately but I found a website for a store in Canada that says they have some in stock....sells for $175 Canadian.

I have just one 650. When I have it set up for small primers I load up a BUNCH of whatever I need to load....catch up on all my small primer reloading. When I need to load large primer ammo I make the switch and load up a BUNCH of whatever I need to load. Like the "most interesting man in the world" says....(kind of anyway)...I don't switch primer setups often my friend...but when I do... I prefer to load a sh*tload of ammo.

(Full disclosure here....I am an electrical engineer working for an electric utility so I looked at your electrical problem from a safety consideration....anything that could cause a fire around your reloading bench is a very serious thing to consider) You are powering a low ampere draw device off a 30 ampere circuit. Some concerns here.... The 30 amp circuit breaker is too large for the device you are running. Let's remove that fact that you are using a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) type breaker and just had a regular circuit breaker. Depending on the size and type of motor you can conceivably have the motor turned on and completely locked up and not trip the breaker. This is called LRA....locked rotor amps and is typically 10-12 times the normal running amp draw of the motor. Dollars to donuts that you are running #12 or #14 wire in the outlet that you have this motor plugged in to. The normal wiring in a house is NM (Romex) cable. #12 Romex cable is good for 20 amps and #14 Romex cable carries 15 amps. With a 30 amp breaker feeding the recepticle you have the motor plugged in to the breaker will not trip until it gets to 30 amps draw. The #12 or #14 wire will burn up and the breaker will not trip. All of that to say....if you are electrically talented and feel confident in doing the wiring then you need to STRONGLY consider adding another 20 amp circuit from your breaker box to your loading bench....run the lights and recepticles in that area off the new circuit. If you can't do it you need to find a friend or a contractor to do that for you. You don't want a house fire to start in your loading area...or any place for that matter. What Dillon says above....you need a regular breaker, not a GFCI breaker to feed the motor due to the rectifier in the circuit. A new 20 amp circuit breaker (non GFCI) feeding #12 wire to your reloading bench area would be a very wise thing to consider.

First off, thank you for your service. Secondly, welcome to the forums. There are some great shooting events around Atlanta and I'm sure you'll find plenty to shoot at. Reloading is almost a must if you shoot regularly. I shoot in Cowboy Action in north Georgia every weekend year round. So, I have a Dillon 650 and load lots of 38sp for that. I also shoot IPSC occasionally and other shooting sports so I got caliber conversion kits for .380, 9mm and 40 S&W for my 650. I use a Lee Turrent press for everything else......9 other calibers and also reload 12g shotshells as well. Shooting is a passion of mine and reloading is necessary. Hope to see you around the forums.

On the 650 it takes 8 strokes of the handle to get the primers to the correct position. However, it is much easier to just raise the ram a few inches and then just advance the primer wheel by pressing the little spring loaded lever 8 times....no muss or fuss....easy and fast.

+1. When I set up my 650 I thought I would just use my bar stool and sit on it was I loaded....I found that awkward. I invested in some inexpensive rubber mats to stand on and load standing up. I get a better feel for setting the primers and the "feel" that you need to have when something doesn't go right when reloading. Any time something feels different when I am reloading I immediately stop to check it out. You lose some of that sensitivity if you are sitting down. Just my opinion anyway.

What he said. Sarge, I shoot CAS competition almost every Saturday some place in Georgia. Between match and practice ammo I shoot about 10,000 rounds of .38sp cast bullets each year. Having the Dillon seater die where you can easily clean it has been a Godsend. I used to load with Lee dies and I was always having to remove the die and scrape out the gunk and then set it all back up again. For my CAS loads I'll stick with the Dillon dies. Now one thing that interests me is the U-die. I've only been reloading for 3 years and did not know what that was. Yes, Google is my friend...they are undersized (hence the U) decaping dies that resize at the same time. After a little looking around I found them here at Evolution Gun Works. My question is "If they are undersized a little wouldn't that tend to squeeze the brass a little too much and weaken it? I understand that the Udie is indeed a full length resizing die whereas the Dillon is not but will this die, at least for a straight walled cases like pistol calibers, tend to lessen the number of times you will be able to reload it? In other words.....why should I use a U-die. Its not the money for the die...I just want to understand the why and benefits. Thanks.

+10 on the 650. You mentioned that you also shoot 3 gun. There may be a time that you'll add a rifle caliber to the 9mm and 45acp. SDB doesn't load rifle calibers. With a 650 you can load all of them and load faster than an SDB. Like others have said....when you load on a 650 you load a whole bunch of what you are loading. When you have need you can do the caliber conversion and make it worth your while and load a lot of the next round requred....etc. 650 all the way.

+1000 on that.

I am having a problem with the case feeder on my 650. When the tube is filled it will not stop running. There is a little arm sensor that sticks into the tube. Would adjusting the length of the tube solve that?

You are welcome.

Therapy !! I shoot CAS every Saturday some place in Georgia and shoot out of state matches 8 times a year. I run through a lot of .38sp and 12g shotgun shells. Counting match and practice ammo I run through about 10,000 rounds of .38sp and 2,500 12g rounds. Having a 650 and caliber conversion kits helps. I also shoot a few other pistol and rifle calibers just for fun. I reload in order to be able to afford to shoot competition but even more than that, for me at least, its a therapy thing. My two kids, sons, have married and moved off about 50 miles from us and we have 4 grandsons....wonderful little balls of energy. I am also at the age, 59, where there is not much on TV that interests me and when there is something that I do like I just DVR it so I can run through the commercials. So I spend a lot of time in my basement reloading shop loading different ammo and shot shells, processing brass and shot shell hulls and even clean my guns occasionally whether they need it or not. If I don't have any reloading to do I'll take down some of my presses and do a little cleaning and lubricating. I've even been known to open up my gun safe, take out a gun I haven't "fondled" in a while and detail strip it and put it back in the safe. I have enough guns where I can do that once a week if need be . For me, other than when my grandsons are over at our house my best time spend is in my reloading shop........therapy!

Pictures of this mod would be interesting to see.

I have a "vibratory cleaner"...its just not a Dillon. I think I'm going to try that with some .38sp rounds I have. I sprayed Hornady One Shot in a gallon back and shook the .38sp cases around in the bag to lube them....my 650 press definitely ran smoother with lubed cases. I have been just wiping down each round to remove any of the One Shot that is left on the brass...its not much but you can definitely feel it. Great idea....thanks.

Tumble loaded pistol rounds?